Nitori's OEM SR Foglight mod!

Nothing came with the switch LOL just a bubble bag with a part in it. I'll try and back track the Amazon order and see if there was anything in the product description. on the off chance , do you have the part # for the Toyota switch?

here's the link to the switch.......

$9 MNJ Motor White Fog Lights Symbol Push Switch with Wiring Kit Replacement Compatible with Toyota (Surface Size 1.54 x 0.83"es)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K1YHDRZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Would the fact I have no fog lights connected be the problem?? I did connect a Piaa driving lamp to the two terminals coming off the wiring harness by the grill with some alligator clamps and it did not light. Would the relay still operate if the fog lights are not present? I can rebuild a small block but electrical gremlins always escaped me LOL

 

Dam.....I wish some one would chime in because I'm at my wits end. I do know I have 12v on pin 30 of the relay and pin 85. I'm assuming that tying that into pin 26 of the ECU, and using the switch to complete the ground activates the relay to move the power from 30 to 87 of the relay and thus turn on the fog lights.......What am I missing????

 

Take an alligator clip and hook ECU pin 26 directly to ground (basically hardwire your fog signal to always on) and report back what happens. Let’s isolate the problem to the truck or the switch.

You are trying this with the headlights on too, right?

 

Will do. And YES the lights are on.

Bought a bunch of alligator clips and a multi meter to check resistance. Here is what I know know.....
1. Truck on----- 12v to 15amp fog light fuse, fuse is good
2. Relay is good.....85 & 86 click when power is applied, and ohm is .ooo between 30 & 87
3. With relay pulled, the slot for 30 & 85 have power when probed with tester light
4. Truck running, relay in, lights turned on, I get no power from the wire coming out of the ECU (test light)

Started testing the actual fog light switch with a 9 v battery and here is a new development. Started playing with the connections........

When I hook up the black to negative, and red 2 & green to positive the illumination on the switch seems to work as it should.

My Questions

Factory fog light harness under the hood has a green and a white/blk wire. Does it matter which color wire from the lights connect to?

So should the remaining red wire connect to the ECU pin 26?
And this still baffles me ...... do I not get a 12v reading off the lead coming out of the ECU? ( If this is the side looking for a ground from 86 of the relay to complete the circuit to trigger the magnet in the relay ) Keep in mind the the actually lights are still not hooked up

 

Alright, I am home from work now and I have a real keyboard to type on.

1- this is good
2- also good
3- also good
4- you are not going to get any appreciable power coming out of ECU pin 26. It's not powering anything, it's sensing if the switch has been pressed. So a few microamps to detect a circuit being closed is not going to light a test light.

What aftermarket switch makers ASSUME is happening is this:
When you press the fog light switch it completes a positive circuit you've wired to pull power from a 12V switched source, which pulls the coil on the relay and completes a circuit from the battery to light up the lights.
What is ACTUALLY happening under your dash is this:
When you press the fog light switch it completes a negative circuit that tells the ECU that the driver has the foglight switch pressed. When the appropriate conditions are met, it illuminates the icon on the dashboard and sends a 12v "go" signal that energizes the fog light relay, completing the circuit from the battery to light up the lights.

As far as your harness under the hood: GREEN to RED, BLACK to BLACK/WHITE. it will not work the other way.

So again, take an alligator clip, hook it to the bare wire of ECU pin 26, clip the other side to any convenient ground (metal under the dash), and you should see the dash light come on and the relay energize.

Once we have localized the problem to your switch (probably is), then we can go through the process of figuring out what pin connects to what other pins, just test which pins have continuity between them with switch on and off.

 

First off.....Man I really appreciate your help! After I hook up the lamps I will try grounding the wire connected to pin26 and see what happens.

Now that I have a dandy new meter.....is there any way to see if I have any micro, nano, amps coming from that connection??

 

OK....I feel like we have made a major break through! Connected the Rigid fogs to the factory harness and directly grounded the wire coming off pin 26 of the ECU. And...........................

Now we have Fog Lights!!!! They come on with the day time running lights and the low beams. Turn off with the high beams.

Yeah.....I would like to have a switch of some sort to control them in my perfect world....... but at least they are working!!

 

Thank you for sharing OP, great write up/pics!

 

Unless I am missing something.....that is the same diagram I drew. My switch has black / red 2/ red 1 / green

 

If you look closer I clarified for others that the Blue is going to ground via the switch. Your drawing shows a red round thing that I saw as a (+) source...

 

NO...that was my non engineering degree way of showing a ground on the second red wire. That second drawing wasn't there, or visible when I replied.

 

Ready when you are

 

Okay, so you have your multimeter and you've pulled the switch off the truck, time to make a chart!




It seems intimidating but there's actually only 6 total continuity measurements you need to take. Measure pin 1-2, 1-3, 1-4, then 2-3, 2-4, then 3-4. When there's no connection just put "Open" or "N/A", and if there is some resistance be sure to mark down how much there actually is, a light circuit will have more resistance than a switch which should have basically none.

Once you have it done with the switch off, push the switch to the on position and do it again.

With this info we will lay bare the secrets of the Chinese ebay sellers!

(Obligatory only semi-dickhead comment not to be taken too seriously: aren't you glad you saved money on a switch with no documentation?!? )

 

I guess I should first tell you...................
I know absolutely nothing about that multimeter where do I set the switch??
Also, the wires are G, R, R, B Is G or B pin 1? Or does it even matter?

Cool....let me have a couple of beers before I get start LOL

 

Well, you're in the right part of the meter at least. Set it at 200, if it tops the scale increase the setting until you get a reading that fits the scale you're using. Just correlate g, r, r, b to the numbers and write it in.

 

Not sure if this is a bad switch.....after all the lights operate properly when hooked to a 9v battery.
but when I checked it as instructed, every possible combination ( switch on or off ) all I got was no reading at all.
But now I do know that my Cross pen has minimal resistance LOL
What say you?

 

The normal arrangement for that kind of switch is:
Green = switch out
Red 1 = switch power in
Red 2 = illumination power in(oem this power source is active with headlights on)
Black = illumination ground(provides ground or dimmer ground for switch leds but not part of the switch circuit otherwise).

Put the clips back on green and red 1 then push the switch a few times. It should alternate between no connection and your lowest reading.

 

If it doesn't then you have a bad switch or it's not able to push in far enough to click, there's a circuit board inside with a small switch with through hole connections soldered to the board and not much tolerance. If the circuit board doesn't sit quite right in the switch housing, no joy.