Wiring an Aux Fuse Block, Relays and Switches in a 2016

I like this setup. Excellent work. What do all the switches actually operate? Thanks.

 

From left to right. Light Bar, Ditch light pods, rear facing pods on my bed rack, a 12v outlet in the bed that runs a fresh water faucet plumbed into a water jug, soon to be on board air, and some accessory undetermined.

 

No doubt that you are talented at installing and wiring switches. And I'll give you the benefit of the doubt that you are just busting us. But if your plan is to actually ride around with that set of buttons, your next stop should be to install a moral compass.

 

WTF? Was this directed at me?

 

every-time i see these threads, i'm stoked i have a switchpro. 100amp, no relays, each line 18a, single 30amp. painless wiring. no sealed enclosure to deal with.

 

Glad you see it that way my friend.
I personally am glad that I built my own, have my own schematics, and the ability to field troubleshoot any issues. Not to mention the $4-500 extra bills I have in my pockets for other mods.

 

TW statute of limitations is 2 years. You’re safe bro.

 

Yeah, nothing screams TW Newbie as much as digging up a two year old thread and insulting the OP.

 

I know this has probably been beat to death. I actually installed my own box (Thanks for the idea OP) but was curious did anyone find a good circuit to tap into for the actual rocker switch illumination lights. Id rather have mine illuminated like when other buttons/instruments illuminate? Instead of being on always.

Just for show and tell:

 

I know this thread is fairly inactive now but I made some diagrams of the Fuse Box set up and switch panel set up that I think look fairly clean and are easy to follow. Let me know if anything is out of place! Hope this helps some people!

 

WOW!!! I can't believe I just discovered this thread!!! I'm hoping people are still active, because I'm more confused now than I was before...

I'd like to tackle this project, please pardon my ignorance, but wiring confuses the hell out of me! I just want one source of power and ground for everything to clean up my potential rat's nest of wiring.

Here is everything I'd like to run to the fuse block; Ditch lights, LED bar, CB, ARB twin compressor, seat heaters, down the road I'd like to add a winch and possibly other accessories. Is it possible and or recommended to run my amp off this too?

How do I know what size circuit breaker to use?

My ditch lights, light bar and seat heaters came with relays, I assume I need to cut those wires and run them thru the box then reconnect them. Do I need to add relays for the other items if they have an inline fuse?

Should I get a small terminal block to run the lights and cb off one circuit? Maybe I'm misunderstanding the purpose of one of these blocks...

Thank you in advance for your help!!!!!

 

Here's the best way I have found works great to hold and there's no cutting any wires

 

Anyone else can feel free to chime in, but for some of these questions, the answer depends on what components you select and the specifications of that component. Pretty much everything I have is rated for 30 amps max, since that's what my panel is rated at.

In general, a fuse panel like this will allow you to ditch your in-line fuses on your smaller accessories, but you need to come up with other solutions for larger accessories like amp, winch, and ARB twin. I have a breaker for my fuse panel, a breaker for my ARB twin, and the Winch tied directly to the battery with no fuse/breaker. Some people put a high-amp fuse or a high-amp kill switch here, but I think you'll find most people just have their winch connected to the battery and always on like me.

The 12 circuit blue sea panel I used was rated at 30 amps per circuit, 100 amps total. So that's an easy decision for a 100 amp breaker between the battery and the fuse panel. A different manufacturer may be rated differently though, so you will have to read specifications. Depending on the draw of the individual accessory (like your seat heaters), relays may be needed because most in-line switches you would pick up an autozone have tiny wires not designed to handle that much power. You could use the relays that came with your seat heaters with existing switches...you would just eliminate the inline fuse and connect the relay to the fuse panel. If you don't want to use the relays, switches that came with your accessories, you can cut them off and use your own like I did with my PIAA lights.

 

Thank you! I'm glad you mentioned the specs of the fuse block. When I purchased it, the specs weren't listed so I had no idea it was a 30A/circuit and 100A total! That just saved me a potential hazard down the road. Most of, if not all of the accessories I have came with relays and in-line fuses. I supposed keeping the in-line fuse is just added peace of mind.

I'll look into another circuit breaker for the ARB twin, thank you! I can run the amp right off the battery once I clean up everything else that is currently tied to it.

I'd like to find a way to clean up all the excess wiring from the harness' that came with the light bar and pods.

Thank you again for your help!

 

Happy to help.

In my opinion, you should ditch the inline fuses when you go to the fuse panel. I'm sure there are reasons to have two, or three fuses on a circuit at key points, but I don't believe it offers any benefit in this situation. Part of the benefit of the panel is simplifying things. I was at a point where I was carrying small, medium, and large blade fuses, as well as 2 or three different kinds of bus fuses. Now I just carry standard blade fuses.

You should consider a larger, dedicated fuse or circuit breaker for that amp as well. I personally would not run an amp directly to my battery without protecting that circuit. Just my 2 cents worth of advice.

 

I notice your switch wiring diagram -- power/ground are in series , is there an advantage to this as apposed to being in parallel
(I'm a noob to this)

 

@Kirbstomp1287 ? anything?

 

Just finished building this project box. It consists of a 6x sealed relay with soft touch control pad inside cab as well as a parallel 4 x relay that is wirelessly controlled up to about 75' away from vehicle.

 

If your looking for a very clean switch controller have a look at this unit. I just installed in my 2017 Tacoma. It only uses 1 small VGA cable(15 pin wire) that passes through the firewall.

Amarine made 6 Way Capacitive Touch-Sensitive LED Switch Panel / Circuit Control Box & 15-Pin VGA Cable for Car Truck Caravan Boat Yacht Marine

https://www.amazon.com/Amarine-Capacitive-Touch-Sensitive-Circuit-Control/dp/B01FJ5DL2E

 

I would assume you drilled a few holes in the bottom like I did, in case there is some water that gets in. I don't know if there would be much condensation under there since it is sitting right beside a hot engine.