Diff oil at 5k

I was told a story recently about the transmission guy at a dealership who would run out and back in all the bolts you'd expect to be touched and sending it back out the door as a tranny replacement.

 

I have done all the changes on my truck, I torque the filter housing to the recommended 18 Ft. Lbs and have no issues removing it the next time.

 

I am glad we generally don't work on euro vehicles at my shop. American and Asian I'm fine with, but the euro stuff can get pretty goofy

 

Yeah with your hand. If you tighten as tight as your hand can do it that is over tight. I am a X tech, and what I do is smear new oil on the new filerter O ring seal, Check to be sure the old o ring is still not stuck on the engine, and wind on the new filter. When the new seal touches the engine I go 12 to 3/4ers more on, and stop. That's all you need, and when it's time to remove it by hand works. I still have a few customers I can't seem to get rid of, but for the better part they bring motorcycles. LOL I'd rather get dirty in my forge smashing hot steel with hammers.

 

I'm glad the recommended torque is working for someone, it's caused us plenty of headaches with rounded off plastic housings (before we got the adapter that actually keyed into the tabs)

 

I didn't know there were plastic filter cans. That sounds like no fun at all . I have had metal cans on so tight I had to first crush them with filter straps, or drive rids thru them to get the over tightened baby to come loose. When it's like that I swear a lot. Makes a big mess too .

No idea where you are, but I am in NH USA. We have road salt issues. The 1994 SR-5 I had the salt built up behind a welded on brake bracket and ate a hole thru the differential cover. I welded that back but had to take it off to do it. The 2012 base regular cap didn't have any problem because I kept after it, cleaning it every so often even in winter. No idea what book spec is but I changed the gear oil each 10 k whether it needed it or not. I also have a Kawi Vulcan Nomad that holds a measly 6 .? ounces Kawi says is good for 24k . I say that amount is good good for 6k miles only at that amount and if you dare over fill it the oil leaks out to the far end of the drive shaft. So far the bike and both trucks ran silver or gold (gold for the bike)

 

As a child which was very long ago I bought a side stand for a pedal bike and was repainted. I bolted that on my bike and it broke as it was total rust on the inside. Ever since I looked harder at things I buy

 

Yikes. I'm in socal so thank God I don't have to deal with the salt. Besides the actual weather, no road salt is a huge plus out here

 

3rd gen problems. Careful not to break that ring gear in half.

I wouldn’t worry. Just breaking in those gears. It’ll be much cleaner on the next change.

 

No road salt? You have no idea how much fun yer missin' ! LOL It eats all alloy for breakfast and comes back fer lunch. It's really fun having it drip down the back of yer neck when something goes wrong or the steering is just iced in to the point nothing can move at all ! Last week and it's melting ,there was a late wet snow and I was trying to turn the 2012 2 w and it just stopped turning. The steering wheel wasn't far from dead straight either. After 40 , maybe 50 k turns I got to the barn and took time to get the water on. I set a back and forth lawn sprinkler up under the front end to melt that ice out LOL.

 

be glad you don't I was actually glad when i got done at that shop... there were too many differences in the cars, jumping from a volvo, to merc, to jag, to BMW, to audi, vw, mini, porsche, then they also added on Japanese cars, so Toyota, Lexus, Honda, Acura Subaru, Infinity... and i would work on cars from 1978-2018... was a major learning curve.. especially diagnostics.. as the shop autel would work for certain items, but you couldnt access CERTAIN CAN systems with it, you had to use a dedicated laptop, or separate MAKE SPECIFIC scanner tool. if you had to do any ECU or module programming, or changes as you have to register each module to the CAN bus or it wont function it would require hooking up a dedicated laptop and the laptop would acquire the update, and check ALL THE CAN SYSTEMS.... takes 15-35minutes... such a PITA.

 

That's what I'm hoping for, just worried like a new parent

 

What, you're telling me you don't want to buy an $8000+ scanner for each make of car you work on?

 

Not my first BBQ EX techy. Look at my profile pic. Massey Furgusson tractor I split in half to replace the PTO clutch. Small example. I operate and work on machines for a living. Safe to say I know what I'm doing. It has nothing to do with how hard I tightened it with my hand. When you have high heat mixed with cold temps, things expand and contract. Making things tighter especially plastics. Thanks for your lesson though

 

What are we looking at here??

G.

 

I think that was from the thread were the guys wife backed out of an icy parking spot and grenades the rear.

 

Guess he doesn’t understand that the plastic swells.

 

I replaced all the fluids at 4100 miles and also noticed that the rear diff fluid was dark grey/ black. Front looked much better, although both were under filled. I used RedLine

$28 75w-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75w-90. Did the tranny check while in there which was also 1/4 quart low. Damn dealers, lol.

 

I have always wet the seal with oil on the new oil filter prior to install. It does help when it's time to replace. I have always only hand tightened the filter.