Any woodworkers?

Seeing in from the sides would be cool, but resin sticks to everything. You could build it 1/2" bigger and trim the sides?

 

Yeah, I'm open to ideas. I never used the stuff. As with most great ideas, I was drunk one night and thought about this table

 

I'll be into this table for a bunch of money if I count all the beer

 

Working on some camp projects lately. Finished up the sign to give to my dad for his birthday. The bullet thing is getting close to done, just have to sand it and pour the flood coat. I don't have any current pictures of it, but it's closer to done than this picture shows.

 

thats neat looking!

 

heres one in this thread...starts here.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/any-woodworkers.271012/page-135#post-18966905

 

Just watched this the other day

https://youtu.be/eFPHzaVoyoY

 

I just got this , you might be interested haha

 

Alright so I know I'm late to the party but @Redmann I wanted to let you know that epoxy is super easy to work with. It's pretty time consuming and definitely depends on your level of patience. I have used several different brands including EpoxaCast 690, East Coast Resin Supply, and Total Boat so far. The ease of use also goes in that order in my opinion. Total Boat has been my favorite by far. I just use the basic shit on Amazon that's a 1:1 ratio mix without fancy pumps or anything like that. If you can afford it, the slow set hardener is well worth it. Companies like Ecopoxy and Polymeres are the best that I've seen so far but come with a huge cost. The longer the set time the clearer the resin will turn out. This is because the bubbles have more time to work there way out and up to the top to pop. However, if you plan on doing a bottle cap table that probably isn't necessary. If you glue the caps down and do a two, maybe three stage pour with any basic shit then you should be fine. Just make sure there isn't any air trapped underneath them and if there is hit them with a torch and you'll be fine. I'd probably use hot glue or something like that to fill up the extra space underneath and connect them to the base. Any pockets will lead to a bubble that could ruin the project depending on how picky you are.

 

The woodworkers in here might appreciate this

Saw these monster timbers at my timber guy's yard yesterday , 18' long , #1 FOHC Douglas Fir 16"x16"

 

not cheap...wonder what one beam costs?

 

I didn't even ask but if I had to guess , probably $2K range

 

Thank you for this! I didnt even think about how to attach the caps to the board. Honestly, I thought I would just lay em down loose and cover with resin. Thanks for your response! I'll be referring back to it when I'm ready to make this thing.

 

No problem! I'm still learning the best ways to do it all, but I'm happy to pass on any info I might have.

 

They did all that great work but just varnished the top after it was sanded. If they placed a final coat of clear resin on top it would have looked better and have been much stronger.

 

If you did that they would float all over the place. Epoxy is easy but the main thing is to keep everything spotlessly clean. Any bit of dust will find it's way into the resin and be there permanently.

 

If you do the instagram thing check out @blackforestwoodco or their website https://blackforestwood.com/ They are constantly posting different videos etc of their river tables etc and they sell different epoxys (epoxies sp??)
Youtube has blown up recently with epoxy tables etc. so there are tons of good resources available.

A friend of mine wants to do one but wanted to start off with something small to test the process, so he's making coasters with different inlays (guitar picks, 22lr casings etc). I'd start there and see if you like the process before investing in a big batch of epoxy and a pile of frustration.

EDIT: I should have probably read the rest of the responses before chiming in. Great tips by some other people here.

 

I've got a couple small pieces of pretty heavily spalted maple that would be a shame to toss but they're pretty spongy/punky. What do you use to stabilize them? I've heard of people using CA glue.

The pieces are 8/4 approx. 6" x 12" so nothing huge but I think they'd make lids for jewelry/catch all boxes. I'd be resawing them in half and then planeing down to about 3/4 so i'd have enough meat left to put a rabbet around the edge to seat in the box.