Lug Stud Replacement / Rear Drum Brake Cover Removal

Sorry - I couldn't find anything specific to my case on the interwebs or TW, so kindly send a link my way if one exists.

I accidentally sheared a lug stud today on my 2017 TRD Off-Road (DCSB if if makes a difference). In trying to replace it, I'm aware you need to remove the cover of the drum brakes. I was following this video (https://youtu.be/fWaih8E-WUI?t=96) and found the holes for my screws. One hole wouldn't let me get more than 1/4" in, and the other consumed almost the entire screw before any threads caught. The one where I couldn't get the screw in doesn't appear to be gunked up - there's just a plate of sorts behind the access hole. I'm using M8x1.25, 40mm.

Not wanting to do any [more] damage, since I don't know all that's going on behind this cover, I stopped. There doesn't appear to be any access points on the rear side where I could move any springs, or whatever, around. I could potentially pry this cover off if that's how the mechanics work, but I didn't want to risk anything. And honestly I'd prefer to not brute force this.

I'd rather not replace anything other than the stud (e.g. no spring kits, full brakes, axles, truck, etc.), so only recommend non-destructive techniques, please. Any advice?

Thanks!

 

You don't usually need the threaded hole. Just be sure you have the parking brake released and the shoes adjusted away from the drum then hit it with a rubber mallet. Whack it, rotate 1/4 turn, whack it again, repeat while trying to wiggle it off and it should come off in short order.

Just be damn sure that the shoes are adjusted to allow the drum to come off.

 

absolutely make sure the shoes are adjusted before pulling the drum off. I made the mistake of using the threaded holes without adjusting and the pads and wheel cylinder exploded lol

 

For those saying I'm using the wrong holes: The first image shows those holes aren't accessible. Could be my shoes weren't adjusted properly. I see now in the second image that these holes are threaded on the cover, so it appears I was using the wrong ones to begin with.

For adjusting shoes: Do I do that by releasing the parking brake and rotating the assembly until I do have access to the push-off point for the screws? Is there a lone orientation where this works, or would it work at whatever angle I can get both screws in?

Thanks all for the quick replies so far. Definitely have given me more info to troubleshoot with. I likely won't be able to give this another go until tomorrow evening.

 

If it's like the other Toyota trucks I've worked on you need to rotate the drum slowly until one of the holes allows you to access the star adjuster. It will be at the 6 o'clock position. You'll need a flashlight to look through the adjustment hole and a small screwdriver to reach through the hole and adjust the star adjuster.

Also, forget about the screws. You only need them if the drum is siezed up and chances are that it isn't. Using the screws is a good way to bend all the brake components. Once you get the shoes retracted you should be able to get the drum off with a few hammer taps and very little effort.

 

I have not had the need to remove my brake drums on my 2018 Tacoma, but here are my thoughts. Check to see to see if you can find a Haynes or Chilton manual for your truck. After you jack up the truck, use a jack stands.
If the video is the same generation truck the adjustment is on the silver bar that is between brake shoes just under the wheel cylinder but above the flange ( part with holes for the studs) It is seen at 3:30 in the video. Search for 2005-2018 Tacoma drum brake self adjustment repair to see the parts. Typically there is a rubber plug on the brake back plate you can remove that will give you access to it. It should be just below where the brake line goes into the back plate. Insert a brake adjustment tool to spin the star wheel. After you have adjusted the brakes, mark one of the studs and the corresponding hole so that you can put the drum back in the same orientation to hopefully prevent a vibration from getting off balance. The hole in the center of the drum and the flange on the end of the axel are a machined tight fit, but you should be able to pull the drum off by hand. It will take some wiggleing and pulling but it can be done. If you decide to use the bolts to aid removal, make sure you have the correct bolts and check that you miss the hole in the flange as seen in the video at 3:30 also. The hole is about the 4 o' clock position. Don't crank to much on one bolt before going to the other one, try to keep them close to even. I know it's not easy, but I am confident you will get it done. And learn something on the way.

 

I just checked mine. The plug has the yellow and white around it. The silver part with the tube attahed is the back side of the wheel cylinder. I watched the video again and it may be possible that one of your bolts lined up with the hole in the flange. The brake drum is not very thick on the face( part that meets the wheel). Use a small probe to find two bolt holes directly across from each other that miss that hole. I wish I was there to help you.

 

02 accords can't be adjusted. Drive the bolts in, explode the springs and replace as necessary lol.

 

It's wild man. They still give u the rubber plug, but absolutely no way to access it.

 

What torque were u using for your wheels op?

 

I never replace brake shoes without new springs. I had a bad experience once when I did not.

 

Thanks everyone. I got it! It was a matter of 1) using the right holes and 2) turning the parking brake off. Didn't have to adjust the shoes at all. I found out those holes were accessible, and I was just looking at a dirty paper gasket.

All this to change out the center caps from red to orange accents. Not bad!

 

How did you break it???

Lefty looooosey

 

Had a couple extra cans of spinach for lunch.

...And I missed the click on the torque wrench and was damn determined to feel it. Was tough to turn regardless because the length of the socket I was using made sure that the wrench was dragging along the tire, making any click difficult to feel. I knew I was past the torque limit, but ah well. It's fixed now!

 

Im kinda curious too haha

 

How much do you deadlift brah?

Those are hard to snap even with a 3' breaker bar and an anger issue!