Doors Won't Stay Open

I understand that I can't do much about gravity, but when I fully open my doors in the slightest of inclines, my doors want to close. This makes getting my kid, or stuff in and out of the backseat very annoying when the door hits the back of my legs. Can this be fixed, and how? I tried searching the forum and didn't see anything.

 

Hey - be lucky the door doesn't hit the back of your knees...

It could be that the door stay, or door stop limiter - whatever - is broken. There is an image of it in today's postings. The door stay is the little arm between the door and the door jamb. It's screwed to the jam and goes inside the door. On the end is a spring mechanism and (I guess) a cam with a detent. When it is working properly, the cam and detent work to hold the door open in an "open" position and if you open the door more, the cam will hold the door in the "wide open" position.

That's how it worked with my 1998 TRD until one day a wind gust caught the driver side door while I was getting out, blowing the door wide open and breaking the cam mechanism. Since then I have to be very careful 'cause the damn door closes with every tiny little breeze.

It's kinda hard on the knees don't cha know...

 

Thanks man. I may pull it apart and see what's going on. Maybe a write up on how to fix if it, if possible.

 

I thought this was normal for 1st gens? My truck has done it since the day I bought it with 24k miles on it. You mean the doors are supposed to stay open??

It is really annoying when you're parked on a slight hill and the door keeps hitting you in the ass when you're trying to get stuff out of the cab.

 

Agree with all comments above. I told someone who rode with me it was a Toyota Option...... Automatic Door Closer.
This is the offender. The bump in the door check becomes wore down and won't hold the door open anymore.

 

I wonder if they're side specific. My passenger door stays open better than the driver side door.

I think I saw a thread where someone built it up with JB weld and then very gradually took off a little at a time until it worked again.

What I do is stick the socket I carry around for the big hub nut you have to remove to replace the CV axle into the space between the door and the truck. For some reason I bought a 3/4" drive socket so it has a 1/2" to 3/4" adapter in it which makes the whole thing a little bit longer.

 

sub, my driver's has been long gone, just never looked into it until recently

 

Thanks for all the input guys. I'm going to try to find a good solution over the next few days.

 

It's called a door check fyi

 

$34 68620-35020 Door Check Assembly

68620-35020