Loosing faith in this JL Audio fix 86

Well all my beer money has been thrown into getting this JL Audio Fix 86 right. 4 main issues listed below.
Hoping any of you handy car audio gods can help me out with them.

1 HU won't play any sound on accessory, it starts up shows its playing but no sound
2 A lot of hissing noise in front tweeters with nothing playing
3 Using JL's TUN version 2 it won't save the program to the DSP, as soon as it gets unplugged, volumes rockets, and calibration is lost and HU goes back to stock.
4 And now the sound cuts out, and comes back, regardless the input source

As for the equipment I'm using

17 TRD Sport Premium Entune non JBL OEM HU
All speakers up graded to Taco Tunes Image Dynamics. Components up front, coax in rear 100w each
Pioneer 9500 4channel Amp 800w out
And Rockville powered sub 600w out

 

Update....
1 still is a issue, should there be a remote lead from the HU to DSP?
2 greatly reduced hissing, you really have to play with the EQ, HZ, VOL, ect settings
3 TUN 3 seems to of have fixed some of the previous versions issues, or i got lucky
4 Switched to remote setting on DSP, now no more cutting out

 

I'll take a quick stab at the no sound issue. I'm guessing the 86 is not powering on. Verify what the status LEDs are doing, and what position your turn on mode is set to.

Both the 86 and the DSP need +12VDC constant, Ground, and +12VDC switched. You can use the Remote Out on the 86 to the +12VDC switched on the DSP to turn it on. I'm assuming you have an 88 or D8.

 

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My best guess at this one is, they (radio shop) took my remote wire and rca's that use to run from my Amp to my powered sub, now both run from the 86 to the sub. And it looks like the 86 is powered by a vacant fuse spot on my fuse panel.

 

Cool story bro, soooo... how about those status lights? Or, did you figure out what happened?

I personally would have pulled constant power off of the distribution block that is surely installed for the amplifiers for both the DSP and the 86. Then, I would have run switched power to the 86 ---> DSP ---> Amp1 ---> Sub Amp.

 

I gots lots of campfire stories lol
Hey thanks for helping me out here man. Just one thing... Isn't the 86 a DSP? That's what I've been calling it lol.
Is there a remote wire on the OEM HU that should go to the 86 then remote it to the Amp from there to powered sub?

86 is wired between HU and Amp then to powered sub. It all powers up on ignition only. On accessory just the HU powers up.



Should there be a remote from HU to 86 then from there to Amp, and then onto the sub

 

The 86 might technically be a DSP, but it's real function is to condition the signal from a OE stereo, and pass the conditioned signal on, either to a tuning DSP or directly to amplifiers. JL has other units that perform tuning functions, which is what would be referred to as a DSP, not the 86 which is essentially an OE integration processor.

It sounds like the power source for your switched power only is not connected to something that turns on in the ACC position, you'll want to identify exactly what that is connected to and move it somewhere that supplies power in ACC as well as ON and I think you'll be good to go.

This being the case, relocate to a power source that meets your needs (@destin_meeks could probably easily tell you if there's a remote out on the OE HU and where it is since he installs a lot), typically it's called amplifier turn on, or power antenna, then yes, make sure the remote switched power goes to the 86 first (you'll want that to boot before the amps) and use the remote out terminal on the 86 to control power up of the amplifiers.

 

Might need this
http://www.jlaudio.com/fix-lsa-car-audio-processors-accessories-98124

 

Looks like you would need the volume control knob to get rid of the hiss.

Eric Cole (JL Audio)

May 23, 14:00 EDT

Using the DRC ensures that you have the least possible noise in the system at low to zero volume since it controls the output of the FiX directly. You can use the factory volume, but you may have a faint noise at low volume due to the FiX being stuck at full output without a DRC. Another option is to install the DRC to use mainly for subwoofer control and then lower the master knob portion slightly to reduce the noise at low volume. I have done this when someone wishes to use factory volume with a FiX 86.
Eric Cole
Technical Support Specialist"

 

So you should get the DRC-205 master control knob.

 

When your input gain on the amplifier is set too high you'll get hiss. 95dB S/N isn't bad but it's not dead quiet either. There are amps out there that, when you set them up right, they are dead quiet.

 

I think i figured it out. Pretty much as you said. The shop had the Fix 86 outputs set at 2v and with the volume stuck at 100% on the Fix, my amp would just amplify it, even when no music was playing. So i turn the output gain on the Fix down to 1v, and pretty much was gone. Thanks for you insight. A member helped me out on the accessory wire from the hu too. Finally i can enjoy the tunes. Cheers Al

 

I have a Fix86 that I used with my JBL system and had some of the issues you mention. I fought it with for almost a year before I got it dialed-in but I really like how it works now.
1) Not playing accy, get your turn on power from your cigarette lighter.
2) Your gain is turned too high for your amp. I had to turn mine down quite a bit for the hiss to go away
3) The master volume control in Tun on the right hand side only sets the volume while your using Tun. It cannot be saved or stored in any way. This is per JL Audio tech support.
4) This was my biggest issue. I ended up switching RCA cables and my amp. I went from a set of higher-end (like $75 for 6 foot long RCA cables) to $2 cheapies meant for computer audio. I also went from a nicer Alpine amp to a cheaper Crutchfield house brand and it all settled-in and works together great.

Those status lights, especially the green one doesn't mean anything. Initially I couldn't get any sound unless I cranked the head unit up quite a bit until the green light would come on steady and then it was great. But it was too loud for my tastes. Now that I have all my other stuff sorted, most of the time everything is great even though the green light is rarely on.

 

I just bout the Fix86 and the DRC control knob. I have the 2018 Toyota Tacoma TRD OR entune headunit non-jbl. What should I look for when installing it? You mentioned Accessory wire what color do you recall the Accessory from the headunit was and was that the wire that was needed to connect to the what is referred to in the manual as 12v+ (SWITCHED)? Other one being the 12+ (Battery)
Where is your Fix86 installed?

 

The accessories wire from the headunit is what connects to the "12v+ SWITCHED" on the Fix86?

 

Here is a pic I found that was very helpful and a member confirmed it. Use (tap into) the little Grey wire from your main hu harness and run it to your switched on the fix, this will let you play on accessory. There might be other ways but this is what I did and it works perfect.

 

Awesome brotha thanks!
BTW, where did you mount your Fix86? I have my 4channel amp under the driver seat and my sub amp behind the back seat passenger side.

 

The shop stuffed it behind the stereo. Ya its hidden, but it a real pain in the ass take out, have to unplug the stereo out to get it, if you need to do any fine tuning. And youre welcome man, glad i could help. Cheers Al

 

I used the 12v wire from the cigarette lighter to go the 12v switched on the Fix86. But the one from behind the head unit should work just as well.

Make sure you get 12v not only with the ignition but also in accessory.

 

Do you also have the control knob for the Fix or did you adjust the gain for the fix using the Tun software?