Break in maintenance?

Ahhh ok makes sense .

 

Drastic improvements in machining and micro honing equipment has improved cylinder circularity and surface finish of the bore and rings to the extent that wearing the rings and cylinder to match (break-in) is no longer necessary.

When I worked for Cummins Engine Company new engines were put in the test cell, warm oil and water added. As soon as the engine was at operating temperature it went full rated horsepower loaded by the dynamometer. It usually took just a few minutes for crankcase pressure to drop indicating minimum blowby.

New engines use to use oil in the first 500 to 1000. miles. At 10,000 miles my Tacoma had used no oil..

Waste of money in my opinion to not follow the engineers recommendations.

 

Here is my break-in procedure. I've done a lot of research over the years and this is what Im comfortable with:

1. Change oil and filter around 500 miles. I do this because
a)I want to get out the break in metals
b)because I look to check everything underneath
c)because I like to fluid-film underneath
d)I dont know how long the factory fill has been sitting around

2. I constantly vary the engine load and RPMs and as I get closer to the break-in mileage limit, I'm a little more aggressive. One break-in rule that is constant throughout my research is that you want the RPMs to vary on an engine, not just buy it and drive cross-country with cruise control on. For example, when I drove it home from the dealer, which was 45 minutes on the highway, I would shift between 4-5-6 on a regular basis and vary the throttle some.

3. Don't full throttle nor bounce it off the redline. Remember you aren't just breaking in the engine, but the transmission and drivetrain too.

4. I plan to do the rear diff soon.

 

That Ferrari should last for many years. I like it.

 

Vbpiper: Thanks for the data and the notes above. This is actually pretty interesting stuff.

 

Most newer performance built motors are broken in on the dyno after maybe 10 min with one dyno pull to 6k rpm

 

I've had a couple people in the lubricant biz caution against using the low-micron super filters; gets down to the size of the additives.

 

Before the OEs started paying for maintenance, the a full engine/trans/diff fluid and filter swap at the first 1-1.2k miles was the norm. Nothing major has changed with engine internals since that time, especially with the 6cyl found in these trucks.

 

Yeah I remember having to do that with my 1984 Datsun 210.