Window Channel F'd from Wind Damage

Shits fucked. I beat it with a mini sledge trying to straighten it out. I also used a crowbar etc. Window rolls down most of the way now.
I found this on Amazon

$58 Genuine Toyota 67402-04030 Door Frame Sub-Assembly

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G0LXZ0K/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

How hard is it to replace? Do I need to take the window and regulator out, etc? Or just the two screws?

 

How did that happen?

 

40 mph wind ripped my door out of my hand. I saw a thread where dudes were able to straighten them but mine is too far gone...

 

Also, my door creaks like a car from the junkyard now when you shut it.

 

Order it up!

 

Anyone know whats involved?

 

Yes you have to take the window out. Two 10mm bolts hold the wi dow in place. When taking the window out pull it out from the outside of the door. No need to pull the regulator.

 

The channel is hold in by two more 10mm bolts. Should be a breeze.

I just had to do the same thing to my truck. Btw i do glass for a living. If you have anymore questions shoot me a pm

 

Window has two bolts on the bottom. I assume I just remove the weatherstripping and out she goes?

 

Yes sir you are correct. Also use some wd40 when you reinsert the weather stripping makes it alittle easier to put back in.

 

Thanks, looks like a need a door checker too to fix the creaking noise.

 

Glad everything worked out for you. My door is all fuckd up some girl hit my door which somehow twisted up the the window regulator and channels. I replaced everything but my door sqeaks everytime i open and close it. I gave up on fixing it more

 

Supposedly a new checker mechanism can fix that. At least with mine being bent backwards by wind it should.

 

Chances are, that much torque on the nut welded inside the pillar, has broken it free. It's only tacked, and can break free easily. If it's lost inside the pillar, a new one can be carefully welded in and painted. Use a magnet to hold a new nut flush with the hole, tack it, remove the magnet, finish welding, touch-up paint it. I used washer head nut, because it tore the hole out a bit. Most body shops have a MIG welder.

Check it before you unscrew it from the pillar. If it's loose, weld it before you lose it.

If the door limiter makes any noise, pops, grinds, etc. it's bent. It will keep working on that pillar nut until it breaks the weld.

 

Hope not. I have taken the checker arm off and I think it is ok. Sounds like a nightmare.

 

How did wind bend the glass run that's inside the door?

 

Same happened to me. Twice. The first time I made a comprehensive claim because the door limiter was bent too. The windshield repairman is replacing my windshield in front of my house as we speak for a different problem, but he took the part out without taking the window out You don't need to. Just put the window in the up position. take the door panel off. The bent part is held by two 10mm bolts. you pull the rubber track out of the part. When you put the new part in, take the door speaker out (4 more 10mm bolts), and you have room to work with to put the new part in. Then stuff the rubber track back in (the rubber track runs through both the upper and the lower track). Make sure it works. Reassemble the door panel. Now my question is, is this the correct part number for my vehicle (2006 Tacoma TRD Sport access cab), driver's door:

$58 67402-04030 Door Frame Sub-Assembly

67402-04030

 

Thank you so much @novataco for the advice, was able to get the existing window track out without taking out the window. FYI if you are looking for a passenger side track because your wife let 'er rip during a wind storm, it's PN: 67401-04030.