Are These Crutchfield Suggestions Any Good?

I went to the Crutchfield website and used the chat to ask one of their specialists what I should get for my future 2019 DCSB. The attached media is what they suggested. I'm new to the audio scene and know almost nothing.
I have two questions:
1. Is the sub big enough to have the ability to feel the bass in the front seats (that's what I'd like)?
2. Are the brands reliable/sound good?

 

shake the truck? like you hear big bass coming down the street with windows rattling? if that, then no, not a chance.

 

Just enough to rattle the front seat occupants. Should have made that more clear.

 

i don't think you'll get want you seek with a w3 and 500 watts. if you want to optimize the bass and get it tight in the cab while staying in hardware reality like what you're looking at, your can get it sounding good with enough sound deadening across all the doors, floor, and roof. without the deadening you'll loose most of your bass power just from resonance.

 

JL Audio is good quality. Lots of debate about the stealth box though with some saying it’s very expensive for what it is and others saying try and get a custom made box with sub for less. For a little more money (not including the amp) you can fit two of these: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136110TGW3/JL-Audio-CS110TG-TW3.html?tp=112
You would have to cut or take out the plastic bins though.

I’m not sure what two subs does for amp selection.

Kicker is good though some audiophiles look down on them. I have them in my truck and am happy with their sound though want to put in an aftermarket amp to power them.

Fully agree adding sound dampening is a good idea.

 

i have a 13TW5 and no matter how good everything is, if you don't go nuts with sound deadening and include the ceiling and floor, then you won't get what you want from your hardware. you won't be able to turn it up without getting tons & tons of resonance noise. so you'll be running about 20-40% before it sounds like crap.

 

The JL Stealthbox is excellent. It’s perfectly engineered for the speaker, sounds crisp and clear, and gives a lot of boom.

It will never be like 2 12s though — if you prefer loud over good, you’ll want to go a different direction and you’ll be sacrificing more storage and/or back seat space.

 

I think you can meet your goals here for the most part. You should be able to 'feel' that W3, but I wouldn't expect hair tricks. It certainly will not rattle the front seat occupants.

I'd probably skip the Kicker stuff personally. Since it doesn't appear you're going for a budget build, and considering that your 'full range' speakers are the most important components in the whole setup, going with something a little nicer there will make a difference. If you're set on coax/triax, maybe consider the GS693 or one of the nicer 2/3 way offerings in the front at least. Too much coin? Maybe save on the sub. That sub you're considering costs around 300 bucks. The other 450 is for the enclosure. And I've heard plenty of people complain of leaks developing in the Stealthbox after a while. Also while the 10tw3 is a nice sub, you can do better for the coin. For example it can't touch the Sundown SD10 (just under $200), which will play louder, is a good bit cheaper; and considering its underhung motor, plays with less distortion.

+1 on the sound deadening. A full treatment will do more for you than any other thing as it reduces cab noise so you need less from the audio system from the start. It can even make a factory system tolerable. But the audio system will interact with all resonant items in the cab - causing rattles and buzzes and whatnot...something else that deadening addresses. A full treatment will also give you thermal insulation. Dampers alone will help, but it doesn't solve all the problems. Full treatment is a big project though, so consider that it will take a pro several full days to get it right. I've discovered that the vast majority of noise issues come from the doors.

Edit: just noticed that you do not plan to amp the door speakers...thought you were using a 5-channel amp for some reason. Stick with the Kickers or other high efficiency options.

 

If amping the door speakers allows for a better sound I have no problem with spending the extra money for a 5-channel amp. On another note, this project is a little bigger than I figured it would be... I guess it will be a great learning opportunity.

 

What more power will give you is the opportunity for greater sound pressure levels at lower distortion. But it also means you really need to treat your doors at a minimum because lots of power on good speakers is going to move stuff around.

 

you should be happy with the set up

 

I'll be the snob that looks down on kicker.I'm kind of old school though, I grew up on Fosgates and Alpines. (I'm sure the kickers are fine.)

The JL 10" is known for a clean, crisp response on the bass. It isn't a teeth rattler. (when shopping for headphones, would you buy a Sennheiser or a Beats by Dr. Dre? Don't get the JL if you answered Beats)

If it were me, I'd do the JL sub and a nice five channel amp, and I'd install sound mat in the doors and floors, as others have said. The head unit doesn't interest me, but I've always liked the appearance of stock, with the serious components tucked out of sight.