The NorthStar AGM Battery + Voltage Booster Upgrade

When are you measuring 14V?

Mine ranges from ~14.7V (on cold start) to ~13.6V (when warmed-up). Achieving higher "warmed-up" voltage, will likely push "cold start" voltage above the safe range.

 

I'm about the opposite of expert at this stuff just learning...I measured voltage at the terminals after start-up at 1500 RPM "idle". It was recommended to me by Ray at Northstar (awesome dude) while we were diagnosing my battery issues.

I'll have to see if my OBDII app can do live voltages so I can monitor at different times, right now I am just using my MM.

 

My Aussie voltage booster along with my overkill DC Engineering alternator only gives me 14.1 at cold startup and 13.6-13.8 when warm....I didn't know they made an adjustable unit, might have to bite the bullet. Again.

I'd like to keep this Northstar as long as I had the factory Panasonic (6 years). I've also had a Johnson Controls optima (2 years) and a Northstar 27f (upgraded model with brass posts only make it 8 months).

 

Definitely, unless it was ECU mapped adjustment rather than using a fixed adjustment method like a booster. Your settings sound ideal.

There is a lot of variability in the voltage. For example, you will get higher voltage measuring cold start after the vehicle has sat overnight than you will on cold start if the vehicle has sat a few hours and after running for several minutes to top up the battery the voltage will fall off. Which is why I went with a voltage data logger in the original post to track and log voltage over time. Ray was also the guy I talked with as well, cool guy that really took the time to discuss and explain things.

Is that cold startup after sitting over night? 14.1 boosted seems low, especially if you are getting a warm reading of 13.8. You should then be at least at 14.3v. Your Northstar only made it 8 months? What happened to it?

 

Yeah we've spent the last few days going back and forth about stuff, he knows his stuff and is very generous with help.

What would you recommend as a good baseline test/time for the alternator voltage?

 

For those that have ordered the adjustable unit from AUS, approx. how long did it take for yours to arrive?

 

FYI...there is a GB going right now for Northstar batteries. Ends 6/7

 

IIRC, mine took a couple of weeks.

 

Letting the vehicle sit over night, then testing immediately after startup for testing peak charge voltage. My morning start voltages are .1-.2v higher than starting my truck after work when it has been sitting for 8+ hours.

Mine took a couple weeks as well.

 

Yeah the first North Star sat in the truck unused for about 4 months while I replaced the engine and did a bunch of other work. I had the truck connected for about 2 of those months and during a good potion of that time I left it on a Noco charger/maintainer. Either way it was dead when it came time to start it. Took it back to where I purchased it and they confirmed it wasn't coming back. Got a full replacement for it, although I think the months of non-use and periodic maintenance didn't serve it very well. New battery has been flawless for the last 7 months. I've got the truck apart right now for yet another project, but I should have it back running this weekend. I'll see if I can get some solid empirical data. Either way, the new battery always seems full of life now with the voltage booster, I was just expecting to be operating at low 14's when warm. Maybe that's not realistic.

 

Mine is non-adjustable, and took a couple of weeks.

 

Mine took 5 weeks....your mileage may vary

 

Yeah...in matters of shipping, you bet mileage may vary...

 

The NorthStars are supposed to have a 2 year shelf life, so that is surprising.

Voltage fluctuates quite a bit, here you can see I am in the high 13s warm with a 0.6v booster. I’m regularly around 14.7 after overnight cold start.

 

I'm really digging these historic graphs

 

I like factual data. There is a link in the OP with a tool to make your own, something like $30.

 

I had a chance to look through the 2016+ FSM and found some more wiring schematics & diagnostic information specific to the charging system. Still waiting on the adjustable booster to arrive. I will be also away for a couple weeks, so it may still be a few weeks until I can dive into this. Nonetheless, here is where we stand:

1) Note the similarities and differences between the Pre-3rd Gen S-Circuit and the 3rd gen LIN (local interface network) line between the regulator and ECU. *Reference 4699 - 4700 file and S-Circuit file.

2) I have highlighted the E18 connector, pin 16, BLUE wire w/ specified conditions (11 to 14v, ignition on) *Reference file 5709 - 5719, page 3.

The questions still at play are 1) how/where is the ECU interpreting voltage that is used in the LIN communication between ECU and IC Regulator, and 2) What is the logic that determines communication from ECU to alternator IC Regulator via the LIN connection (E18-16)?

I am by no means an expert, so anyone with a higher pay grade feel free to chime in and help the cause, lets hear it!

 

@gixxerphil

 

did your guys hbk booster not work when its pluged in one way, but it works when you flip it around? i get a alternator light when i have it pluged in on one side, but it works when i flip it over? do i have a defective one or is that how it works?

 

The is how it works, a diode limits voltage in one direction. If you install it backward it won't work causing the alternator light to come on, it is covered in the instructions included with the booster.