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OEM Brake Change

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016-2023)' started by TheTacoMarine, Jun 12, 2019.

  1. Jun 13, 2019 at 3:25 AM
    #21
    Clearwater Bill

    Clearwater Bill Never answer an anonymous letter

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    Big tall dave and Skydvrr like this.
  2. Jun 13, 2019 at 4:47 AM
    #22
    Burro09

    Burro09 Well-Known Member

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    On older manual vehicles without this atkinson bs and larger displacement engines, engine braking is really effective, in fact even letting go of the accelerator you immediately feel engine braking go into effect if the revs are over idle rpm or so. Even so, the taco 3.5 still has a bit of engine braking to it.

    Automatics especially older ones tend to unlock the torque converter as soon as you let go of the gas. It makes it feel a bit like dropping a manual into neutral at speed. This makes the car coast or roll more freely requiring more use of the brake. I also dont see automatics holding higher revs and downshifting at higher revs unless you manually tell it to.

    Im not sure if the automatic 3rd gen keeps the tq converter locked when you let go of the gas, but from my experience, properly driving a manual vehicle, i have gotten some phenomenal pad life and barely touch the brakes except to come to a final stop. I do drive very easy though, like a wannabe hyper miler.

    Unlocked torque converter=less transmitted engine torque for engine braking since you have slip between impeller and turbine in the tq converter.

    Locked torque converter or clutch = all engine torque is being passed into the transmission and wheels for that engine braking.

    Just my experience, and note that i dont have an automatic vehicle newer than a 2006. Maybe the new ones are different??? I wouldnt know.
     
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2019
  3. Jun 13, 2019 at 5:30 AM
    #23
    Skydvrr

    Skydvrr IG: @kalopsianick

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    You're exactly right, unlocked right after throttle is relieved.
     
    jmauvais likes this.
  4. Jun 13, 2019 at 6:15 AM
    #24
    Big tall dave

    Big tall dave Well-Known Member

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    Not sure what you mean by brake ‘jump’ but unless your steering wheel shakes while braking or your brake pedal pulses while braking, I wouldn’t bother replacing rotors on a vehicle with that many miles. IMO anyway, your money though.....
     
  5. Jun 13, 2019 at 6:21 AM
    #25
    Big tall dave

    Big tall dave Well-Known Member

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  6. Jun 13, 2019 at 6:39 AM
    #26
    Scott17818

    Scott17818 Well-Known Member

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    brakes changes are easy... few simple tools.. jack, jackstands, wrenches (basic hand tools work), screwdriver, or some type of wedge/small prybar hammer to knock hand tools (break rust/ stuck bolts), some rust preventative like an anitsieze, or fluid film is good to have if you live in the rust belt, or near the ocean.

    1. loosen all lug nuts 1 or 2 turns (easier on ground with hand tools)
    2. place a wheel chock on front, and rear of one tire (so it wont roll)
    3. jack up vehicle, and place jackstand under the FRAME so that the tire just lifts off the ground 1-2 inches..
    4. remove all lug nuts, remove wheel/tire.
    5. remove wheel spacer if you have one.. if you lock tite'd it in place you will need an impact gun here.
    6. with a screwdriver, or small prybar pry the old pads away from the rotor as much as possible (using a block of wood, or another prybar for leverage, use the metal lip of the pad if you plan to re-use pads)
    7. if replacing just pads pull the pad pins, and replace pads with grease on the backsides (metal plate contacting the pistons/caliper sides) BE SURE TO CLEAN CALIPER/PAD CONTACT SURFACES WELL

    *7. if replacing rotors and pads remove old pads from calipers and remove the brake hose, and ABS/WSS bracket from the knuckle (10mm I believe; gives more length to the hoses/cable to hang it out of the way) caliper bolts (15mm I think)
    8. hang the caliper out of the way (use a piece of wire, ziptie, string, etc) do not allow weight to rely on the brake hose.
    9. IF your car/truck has a caliper bracket remove it (typically 2 bolts 17mm)
    10. if youre not saving the rotors you can whack them off with a ball peen hammer on the rotor surface.. otherwise there are 2 methods to remove without damaging..
    a. use a soft mallet or rubber dead blow hammer.
    b. (safest way) using 2 bolts (M8 1.25 thread) use a little antisieze paste, and an impact
    11. clean hub surface with wire brush removing as much rust as possible for a flat surface. check threads on studs are not damaged.
    12. coat the hub surface with either Antisieze paste/spray, or fluid film. this will aid you in the next brake change
    13. clean new rotor with brake cleaner and a clean rag. (removed wax/film coating from rotor
    14. place new rotor on hub (use 1 lug nut to hold in place)
    15. re-attach caliper bracket, and caliper (be sure pistons are retracted fully or you will not be able to fit the pads over the rotor) you can use the old pads in the caliper and pry on them to retract the pistons.
    16. install the caliper on the bracket/rotor.
    17. install new pads with grease on the backplates (only the spots that contact metal, piston surface, slide bars, and pins) (on most vehicles steps 16 and 17 are reversed).
    18. remove lug nut used to hold rotor in place
    19. clean rotor surface again with brake cleaner, and a clean rag.
    20. spin rotor to ensure no noise, other than pad drag is heard..
    21. install wheel spacer, wheel, tire, etc.. torque to spec..
    22. spin wheel to ensure smooth rotation (SOMETIMES DUST SHIELD NEEDS TO BE BENT OUT OF CONTACT WITH ROTOR)

    rear drums are a bit more difficult, but not impossible.. (parking brake off)
    DRUM BRAKES LAST A LONG TIME much more than caliper/rotors.. dont be suprised if you only do i drum brake service per 2-3 front pad/rotor changes..
    1. same as steps 1-5
    2. give the drum a few whacks with a small hammer to loosen it off the hub mating surface.
    3. at back of brake backing plate there should be a rubber plug in a narrow window/slit at the bottom of the axle tube, remove it
    4. using a brake spoon (if you have one, or a flat head screwdriver stick it in the slot, or rotate the star wheel until the drum becomes loose off the rear brake shoes.
    5. remove drum to reveal internals of drum brakes. (TAKE A FEW PICTURES WITH A PHONE, so if you disassemble you will know how to re-assemble it)
    6. Inspect shoes if they have become delaminated (pad material coming off the metal shoe (replace now), chuncks missing from pad material (replace now), if drum has DEEP grooves, and measures with a caliper out of round, or beyond service (replace now)
    7. inspect springs, and clips are in good condition
    8. remove adjuster wheel, unscrew it entirely, be sure parts move freely. clean & lube with grease
    9. pull shoes back from the backing plate (may need to remove shoe locating pins) if not replacing.. there are 3 or 4 pads they sit on on the backing plate that need grease.
    10. re-assemble drums (be sure the adjuster wheel is on the correct side)

    if brakes are worn, delaminated, etc...
    11. remove shoes locating pins/springs using needle nose pliers,
    12. use screwdriver remove springs (warning under tension, watch your fingers)
    13. remove shoes, and hardware
    14. clean and lube adjuster as in step 8 above
    15. clean backing plate with brake cleaner, remove any rust with a wire brush, paint if you feel like it, or simply thin film grease/fluid film the entire backing plate. ensure there is grease on the shoe pads of the backing plate.
    16. install new shoes attaching parking brake lever/cable with new shoes hardware. install shoe locating pins, install adjuster springs, (CHECK AGAINST STARTING PICTURE)
    17. be sure all items are centered on the backing plate
    18. clean shoes, and drum with brake cleaner/rag
    19. re-install drum
    20. adjust the adjuster wheel through the backing plate window until the shoes just start to drag.
    21. spin rear drums, ensure no noise other than slight dragging of shoes...
    22. install rear wheel spacers/wheels/tires


    break in procedure:
    1. pump brake pedal and be sure the pedal feel is hard, and engagement is near top of stroke, if not adjustment it needed to rear brake shoes
    2. drive slowly on a straight road 15mph.. come to a slow stop paying attention to brake sounds
    3. up speed to 25mph, slow to a stop
    4. 30mph, slow stop
    5. 45mph slow stop
    6. listen, and pay attention to any vibrations, pulsing in the brakes, vibration in the steering wheel when braking...
    6. youre done... remember to check lug torque at 50miles or so.

    typically it should only take you 10-15 minutes each for the fronts minus removing wheels/tires, and jacking it up.. I highly recommend getting the 2 bolts to remove the front rotors..
    rears other than jacking up, and removing tires should be no more than 20-30 minutes each depending on level of service needed after inspection.
     
    Rastopher, ancient11, 1000101 and 4 others like this.
  7. Jun 13, 2019 at 12:56 PM
    #27
    TheTacoMarine

    TheTacoMarine [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yup thats exactly it. Steering wheels shakes a bit then I feel the truck “skip/jump” a little. I mean it only occurs when I’m going 65+mph and traffic decides to immediately slow down.
     
  8. Jun 13, 2019 at 12:59 PM
    #28
    TheTacoMarine

    TheTacoMarine [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Man this is quite the write up. I really appreciate this!
     
    over60 likes this.
  9. Jun 13, 2019 at 3:05 PM
    #29
    Scott17818

    Scott17818 Well-Known Member

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    No problem, was bored at work...
     
    over60 likes this.

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