1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

2nd Gen Hunting Rig Build - Drawers,Rack, Bumper, Bags

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Builds (2005-2015)' started by SwampDonkeyBait, Jun 12, 2018.

  1. Jun 14, 2018 at 6:37 AM
    #21
    SwampDonkeyBait

    SwampDonkeyBait [OP] Member

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2017
    Member:
    #210113
    Messages:
    19
    Gender:
    Male
    San Diego
    Vehicle:
    2008 Tacoma TRD
    Definitely a great skill to have in your back pocket. I plan on doing the same this summer.

    Unlike mig, tig was getting my hands ridiculously hot because they were in the heat zone for a prolonged period. I found that the traditional goat skin gloves suck at protecting from the heat, so I bought a set of these: https://www.amazon.com/VBELKHV-Prem...8&qid=1528934450&sr=8-13&keywords=oven+gloves

    They are the single best tig welding safety investment I've made. They're like a tig finger (weldmonger.com), but for your whole hand.
     
    TT-Tacoma and MarX like this.
  2. Jun 14, 2018 at 6:39 AM
    #22
    SwampDonkeyBait

    SwampDonkeyBait [OP] Member

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2017
    Member:
    #210113
    Messages:
    19
    Gender:
    Male
    San Diego
    Vehicle:
    2008 Tacoma TRD
    Excellent point. Thank you!

    I'm going to put this on my list for the next few weeks.
     
    MarX likes this.
  3. Jun 14, 2018 at 8:05 AM
    #23
    SwampDonkeyBait

    SwampDonkeyBait [OP] Member

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2017
    Member:
    #210113
    Messages:
    19
    Gender:
    Male
    San Diego
    Vehicle:
    2008 Tacoma TRD
    Electrical.

    I had big plans for electrical features on this rig, light bar, switchback DRL, retractable light bar with HIDs, dual battery switch, etc, and I needed a few switches to run those different components. My initial plans were to make a small switch panel to fit into the cubby hole underneath the radio, but later realized that I like that spot to hold extra ammo, sunglasses, etc. I decided to go overhead with a new switch console. Some key features I was looking for were; 6 switch locations, low profile, LED indicators, and simplicity.

    Looking at the configuration of the existing overhead console, I figured that I could get a thin piece of sheet metal between the headliner and the edge of the plastic console with attachment points to the reinforced roof section above.

    I took measurements and did a quick sketch what I was going to do.
    [​IMG]

    I began with a small piece of left over 18ga sheet metal, cut it to width and started bending it using clamps and scrap metal bar on the edge of my table. This is the Z shape to snake between the headliner, existing console and reinforced roof.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Next was to prep small metal sections for the sides and weld them in place.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The rear of the console got two tabs welded at an angle to hook onto the front of the headliner and provide support. Most of the weight will be supported by the tabs on the front of the console. Test fitting:
    [​IMG]

    Keeping the front about 1/4" away from the windshield.
    [​IMG]

    Mocking up switch configuration.
    [​IMG]


    Final product ready to be primed and painted.
    [​IMG]


    Beginning the wiring. LED indicator lights were drilled and installed. The console was too small for the LED to go directly underneath the switches, so I offset them to the right. 5 switches are simple on/off toggles. The big switch on the right side is a double pole single throw to control the linear actuator (future retractable light bar).
    [​IMG]

    Switches loosely in place.
    [​IMG]


    LED ground wires in. I also cut a small opening on the drivers side of the console for the Blue Sea battery switch. You can see it here on the right.
    [​IMG]

    The rest of the toggle switch signal wires connected to their respective color in the 18-5 cable.
    [​IMG]

    Installed. The wires from the console run across the headliner to the drivers side A-pillar, then down around the dash fuse box.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The end of the line. 5 relays mounted to a simple plate on the passengers side of the engine compartment. Two 12ga positive wires run from the battery and have inline 30 amp bus fuses. The relays are setup and ready to accept their respective jobs. Right now they're hard wired to the battery. Next week I will be adding two additional relays to control the power source off of the ignition switch.
    [​IMG]
     
    WormSquirts and MarX like this.
  4. Jun 14, 2018 at 8:21 AM
    #24
    Juforrest

    Juforrest Dumb!

    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2015
    Member:
    #170434
    Messages:
    5,932
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Justin
    Seattle
    Vehicle:
    Reformed Taco driver in a GX460
    So much good fab work! Nice job. I am a big fan of DIY truck stuff.
     
    MarX likes this.
  5. Jun 14, 2018 at 8:50 AM
    #25
    SwampDonkeyBait

    SwampDonkeyBait [OP] Member

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2017
    Member:
    #210113
    Messages:
    19
    Gender:
    Male
    San Diego
    Vehicle:
    2008 Tacoma TRD
    I was just browsing your build and saw the trailer plug relocation to the bumper. I'm stealing that idea since my trailer plug ripped off while wheeling in Colorado and its been dangling via a piece of paracord for the past few months. :D
     
    MarX and Juforrest[QUOTED] like this.
  6. Jun 14, 2018 at 12:21 PM
    #26
    RCRcer

    RCRcer Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 14, 2015
    Member:
    #159476
    Messages:
    879
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    2015 OR DC
    @SwampDonkeyBait dude you're killing it. Great job with your build and it's all you. A+ on DYI.
     
    MarX and ovrlndkull like this.
  7. Jun 14, 2018 at 4:24 PM
    #27
    ovrlndkull

    ovrlndkull STUKASFK - HC4LIFE

    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2017
    Member:
    #206806
    Messages:
    37,785
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Skip
    Burlington, NC
    Vehicle:
    2005 DCLB Silver
    63s, XD Machete, Beat not Babied
    Dude I wheeled my rig pretty hard since last Aug never had an issue with ripping it off. Then one of the guys I wheel with all day was saying how he couldn't believe I hadn't ripped it off. Last trail of the day yep.wouldnt ya know it ripped it right off. He jinxed me.
     
    MarX likes this.
  8. Jun 21, 2018 at 10:35 PM
    #28
    k5driver

    k5driver I hate bums

    Joined:
    Jun 14, 2018
    Member:
    #256438
    Messages:
    199
    Gender:
    Male
    Montana
    Vehicle:
    2009 4x4 DCSB MT SR5
    Very impressive. Mine will tun into a hunting rig someday...
     
  9. Aug 8, 2018 at 12:15 AM
    #29
    WormSquirts

    WormSquirts Armageddon

    Joined:
    Dec 18, 2015
    Member:
    #172583
    Messages:
    2,825
    First Name:
    Braeden
    BC
    Awesome build, inspiring me to spend more time in the shop creating stuff! Love the thought going in to everything.

    One thing I did notice (correct me if I misinterpreted) is that you ran your air bags to a T then to a single Schrader valve? I've heard that this is actually not the best idea, because when you flex your suspension ( for instance, body roll around a corner), the compressed side forces the air into the unweighted airbag, actually increasing your body roll. Best practice is 2 fill points, or check valves, to isolate the airbags from each other.
     
  10. Jun 18, 2019 at 6:27 AM
    #30
    SwampDonkeyBait

    SwampDonkeyBait [OP] Member

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2017
    Member:
    #210113
    Messages:
    19
    Gender:
    Male
    San Diego
    Vehicle:
    2008 Tacoma TRD
    Great point. I'll be changing this on Saturday.
     

Products Discussed in

To Top