CV Joints

Seems like the weak point in the IFS setups are the CV joints. How are you guys dealing with torn boots? Seems like Im buying CV sets every summer.

 

A diff drop kit. If you're still tearing boots with that you've got too much lift. Some people do make "high angle" CV boots, but you should also consider a bracket style lift if you want to maintain that much lift (or higher).

Diff drops don't return your CV angles to stock (especaily if you have more than 2.5" lift) but they definitely help - Best $26 you'll spend, lol. If you're over 3", you need a bracket lift anyway.

 

Sounds like a good idea. Which CVs are you running?

 

My truck is a daily so I went with the manual hub setup.

It’s got its pros and cons but overall less cv rotation = less boot tearing

 

God damn. Didn't even consider a manual hub swap. https://www.offroadsolutions.com/products/ors-manual-hub-conversion-kit/

Seems like the best option for a daily driven vehicle. A lot of work, but worth it in the long run.

 

Not worth it if you offroad hard. Manual hub shafts are 6mm smaller in diameter and when they break they trash the hub. It's getting harder to find parts for the hubs to.


I've never had boot problems but I think the highest my truck may have ever been was 2.25". I doubt I'm at 1.5" now.

 

stock

 

Meh.

The "best" option for a daily is a truck without a redonk lift that tears your boots.

Only reason I see for a manual hub swap are for the folks swapping their prerunners over to 4x4's.

 

True, a lot of decision making depends on your setup, how you drive and how your building your truck. So many different factors to consider, spring height, spring rate added weight from bumpers or winch skids etc

 

I've never had boot problems but I think the highest my truck may have ever been was 2.25". I doubt I'm at 1.5" now.[/QUOTE]

Isn't the hub supposed to be the weak point? They're super easy to replace on the trail.

But I guess if you're breaking a lot of CV axles/CVs, it's time for SAS...

 

I broke 11 ADD CV's in two years. 9 months ago I went and got RCV CV's. I haven't replaced a CV since. lol

 

Jesus, I probably would started considering alternatives after maybe the 3rd or 4th, lol...

You long travel?

 

Nope. SPC uppers, stock lowers, stock spindles, Kings set at about 1.75". My rigs a 97 4Runner locked F/R, dual cased, on 35 Pitbull Rockers. It gets used on hard crawling trails more then fire roads. lol

 

Only reason I'd be hesitant to go with stronger CVs is that the diff is the next likely weak point. Those suck to fix on the trail, lol. Sounds like you haven't had that issue, though.

 

Me and my buddies all had money on the stub shaft being the next weak link. I'm on Nitro 5.29's and it's a pretty strong gear set.

The thing is no one had ever tested how strong the stock ADD stub shaft is. The CV was the weak link. So, that left the question of is the stub shaft strong enough to handle the torque. So far that answer is yes it is strong enough. There have been instances of guys blowing apart stub shafts so I know they can break. When mine does it'll be a longer trail repair but the stub itself is easy to replace. The PIA is getting the diff out. I've done that more than a few times so I have some tricks that work well.

If, or when, my stub shaft does blow I already have RCV willing to make a replacement in 4340. So, time will tell.

 

Isn't the hub supposed to be the weak point? They're super easy to replace on the trail.

But I guess if you're breaking a lot of CV axles/CVs, it's time for SAS...[/QUOTE]

Not in my experience with them. Just makes a $50 break a $150 break if a local junkyard even has them. If you damage the brass bushings you're looking at finding another used spindle. As far as I know ORS still isn't making that part anymore. Doesn't look difficult to machine though.

 

Only the tube needs to come out. You don't need to drop the whole diff. Both axles too so you can knock the stub out.


Sounds like you need a 8" front diff

 

True, but the upper two torques that hold the ADD tube on are a major pain to get to. Last year I bent my ADD tube on the Dusy. I got my rig home and in the garage. After getting an ADD tube I tried to pull the old one without taking out the diff. I probably could have but decided pulling the diff was faster. In the field I'm sure I will do it the same way.

 

Some replace those torx bolts with regular ones. I just pulled mine out after recently having the diff disassembled so things weren't too bad to break apart.