Help needed now- Brakes (RESOLVED)

Brake light and ABS light on. Almost no brakes. Brake fuse keeps blowing. Fishing in remote area need some suggestions as only option is 30 mi tow

 

check brake fluid?

 

Brake fluid full

 

Check your wires going to the abs module.

 

Where is ABS module

 

truck should still stop with ABS fuse pulled / blown.

 

If you have a OR its right under the reservior. All the others models put it over on the opposite fender with all the brake lines going into it

 

*if you have a TRD OR 4x4 09+

 

Did you run over anything and rip out abs wire or brake line at wheel?

 

if you have a shell or have tapped into your brake lights, that could cause the fuse to blow + turn on the abs light (if there is a short).

I cant remember if the brake light turns on too, for sure the abs light turns on but I definitely had the same issue when my tapped wires shorted out.

doesnt explain the reduced brake ability though.

 

I'm willing to bet he has the electro boost system. That's the only scenario where a fuse problem and a lack of brake assist would go hand-in-hand.

Is the brake pedal hard like there's no assist? Or is the pedal really soft and spongy like it goes all the way to the floor?

 

Do you have a manual or auto trans? Generically (from Haynes manual),a flashing abs light means a problem that needs attention. A steady light means abs has been disabled due to a problem.The red brake lamp means there is a problem with the main braking system .If red and amber are on there may be separate problems with abs and the main braking system or there may be a problem with the main braking system that affects abs such as loss of fluid. Hope this helps you. You are looking at brake reservoir and not clutch if so equiped?

 

OP has a 2011 TRD OR DCSB.

 

Soft pedal to floor
O/R Auto

 

If you give several quick short pumps does the pedal get better momentarily?

Thinking master with internal failure?

 

Conbined with the consistent fuse failure, I'd suspect a faulty electro-boost unit. Probably expensive.. but by all means get it checked out by a shop

 

Only option then is tow to nearest dealer. No one local where I am at has tech to fix

 

Subd for end results
Good luck OP. What happened?

 

Long story short:
Trucked towed to Dealer (Berlin City in Gorham NH)
Techs ID problem as bad break controller module
New part cost $2575.00 plus labor (about 3k total) due to fact that electronic controller not sold alone. Comes as unit with master cylinder, brake res'v., booster, etc
Service writer found used unit for $ 259
Will have used unit installed
Tech told me he has only seen one other unit fail in 14 years and that was on new vehicle which was fixed under warranty
Was told used part (from wrecked truck) is so cheap because the brake controller "never" fails and there is no market for them
All in all about a $600 fix with labor and tow. Expensive, but not $3,000

 

Theoretically, a pain but couldn't you drive somewhat at slower speeds (45) with your hazards on and utilize the e-brake? as the front brakes are separate from the rear. And good to hear it wasn't 3k for the repair...damn