front diff drain plug stuck and now hex key won't fit

ecoterragaia the compressed air method is not all that unorthodox. Ive seen several aerosol cans that are sold for that purpose. I've always accopmplished this in conjunction with a propane or map gas torch.

 

A bunch of people have had the same problem as the OP.

Trust me this works...use a T-55 Torx bit instead of the 10mm hex, sounds weird but it works like a charm.

Like others said, clean and lubricate the plug as best as possible first.

 

I checked yesterday and there was no sign of any leakage, so I put the 2 plates back on. I then moved on to the t-case and changed that fluid with no problem. I can see why some people never change it, in both cases the fluid looked brand new. I will do the rear diff soon and ordered spark plugs today.

 

looked brand new at 90k? Guess I won't even bother being only at 25k

 

It's been changed every 30K. There was a little grit on the magnet. I'm not recommending ignoring it, I just see why some people do. Also, I have used nothing but Mobile 1 75W90 due to the cold winters we have here.

 

I tried to change my front diff oil yesterday but couldn't get the drain plug loose. The fill plug came loose but the hex bit kept popping out when I leaned into it with my breaker bar. The plug isn't stripped but I think there is enough rust inside the hex recess that the hex bit can't seat properly. Last time I changed the oil in the diff two years ago I managed to get it loose by soaking it overnight with PB Blaster and this time I didn't do that beforehand, assuming that it should come out easier the second time. I use a 10mm hex bit that fits on a 3/8" wrench but all of my breaker bars and long handle ratchets are 1/2" so I need to use an adapter. I may try to find a 1/2" version of the 10mm hex bit so I don't need to use the adapter. I am intrigued about using a T55 torx bit as I believe I have one that's used for the bed bolts.

 

I stand by my quote in post #25...use the torx bit, it'll work

 

Passing this along for future readers.

GEARWRENCH 84627 1/2" Drive Hex Bit Impact Metric Socket 10mm, Black

$11 GEARWRENCH 1/2" Drive Hex Bit Impact Socket, 10mm - 84627

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T3M9PIO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_XKPdDb3TZXT5N

 

When you get it out, replace it with this:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/front-diff-drain-plug-alternate-oem-part.604989/

 

One more tip. Get a pick or small screwdriver and clean out the recess for the Allen wrench. Scrape, spray the loose stuff out... Repeat

 

I welded a bolt onto mine to get it out, then replaced with the same style. If I had known about the better replacement above I'd have used that instead.

Anyway after the replacement, I just blobbed on a fat wad of the thickest grease I had all over it to keep it ready to come out again. It's still on there several thousand miles later.

 

I sprayed it with liq. wrench waited then used a 10mm allen socket and breaker bar to it…
I rounded it out… I mean f..d it up. I attached a small tube to the pump and simply pumped
nearly all of it out. I was able to pump back in a little more than 1qt. of Redline GL5 75 90.
I did the rear axle in no time at all.

 

I sprayed mine with penetrating oil.
Then used one of these.

TEKTON 1/2" Drive Impact Screwdriver Set (7-Piece) | 2910

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2910-...locphy=9019687&hvtargid=pla-384324752796&th=1

 

Again, a few wrap with Teflon tape before reinstalling the drain plug helps keep it from seizing the next time you try and remove it. I do this routinely and have never had a problem. Of course, I don't live in the rust belt.
I grew up in Iowa. You can keep those winters.