$ replacing u joints?

I am currently at the dealership in Athens,GA. There is an (as it was out to me) an amplified warranty on the drive train. They will inspect your U-joints and if needed replace them at no charge under warranty!

 

Sorry, should have added that I bought my Tacoma one week ago and only brought it in for recall items to be fixed and they volunteered this information to me.

 

It never fails. There’s always one lurking. Thanks for the input!

 

I may be mistaken, but I believe that they will replace them under warranty up to 200,000 miles. At least on some model years. I paid almost $300 in May of 2016 to have the one done in AZ. If I had kept my receipt I could have gotten reimbursed. It doesn't hurt to call and ask.

 

2019

 

As far as i knew that tsb for ujoints ended in march. Only use a spicer rubber CB or the poly ford ranger one if you wanna tak the time to mod it up. If your dealer wont do u joints, find a new dealer. My dealer always has like 6 on the shelf and we get new shipments every week. We still have tsb ones kicking aroud too, maybe they extended that tsb for the ujoints hmmmm.

 

I just replaced my U-joints and Carrier Bearing. Some $300 in parts off Amazon. I bought OEM parts since the original ones lasted ~110,000mi. Toyota got rid of the greasable u-joints for my 2011, Only sealed are available for OEM replacement. I am fine with that.

I was going to replace everything myself, but once I separated the center u-joint, I couldn't get the yoke separated from the drive shaft (my 3 arm puller couldn't grab onto anything). There is actually a yoke separater tool that works well but costs some $75. I ended up taking it over to my buddies shop and have him finish the install/ repair. It should be noted that U-joints and your drive shaft are important since they are rotating masses. Don't clamp your drive shaft in a vise by itself like you see on you-tube. Also, press out the u-joints with either a ball joint press or mandrel press (not a hammer and socket). It is also important to check the 'run-out' of each u-joint after assembly and use the correct spring clips. Failure to have a balanced shaft, will cause premature u-joint failure or drive line vibration.

Its one of those projects that is definitely DIY, but you must be extremely careful.

 

Update: Dropped the truck off this morning. Service tech calls and proceeds to tell me that my 4” lift stressed the driveshaft and it needs to be replaced. I correct him and say, “It’s a 1.5” lift that was installed by your mechanics when I had the frame replaced 5 years ago.”

Didn’t get much of a response. Then I ask him if they can replace the u joints and CB without having to swap out the whole drive shaft. He tells me he’ll get back to me and calls an hour later to tell me that replacing the u joints won’t fix the vibration. “You need a new drive shaft. It’s going to be $1819.”

No thank you. Tomorrow I’ll reach out to my local mechanic and see what he wants to do the work if I bring the parts.

On that note: What do I need to order? Anyone have all the part numbers for this job?

2007 4.0 V6 4x4 dual cab short bed / AT

Thanks again TW peeps!

 

i gotchu, got em saved in my Amazon cart.

Edit: one the u joints can get purchased through amazon, CB has to come from ebay or whatever other retailers have them in stock.

$31 Spicer 5-1330-1X U-Joint Kit

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DOI8BDS/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A2MOBBHRX7CB6B&psc=1

Link for the u joints, the clips you will use is the copper colored ones.


CB: Spicer 5002007 driveshaft center support carrier bearing

These is a large nut that holds this on and you will need a 3 leg balljoint puller if you do it yourself.

You can do this with just a ball joint tool or a vise, socket, and big hammer.

 

Sorry for your dealership troubles though. Its funny that the toyota price of a new driveshaft is not even half the price of a Tom woods driveshaft that will cure your vibes almost forever.

 

I assume this is the correct CB?

$199 Genuine Toyota 37230-0K030 Center Support Bearing Assembly

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GHK6Y0C

Also, how many U Joints do I need to replace? I’m clueless when it comes to drivetrains.

 

3 total, comes with end caps and clips.

That is the carrier bearing toyota directly sells. its double the price, spicer is the SAME BEARING but for like 85$ from ebay or JEGS

CB: Spicer 5002007 driveshaft center support carrier bearing

^^^^^^ That part number

 

I just tried doing mine. A 3 leg puller doesn't have anything to grab onto for that center yoke, you need a tool like this

$340 Tiger Tool Commercial Yoke Puller Made for Heavy Duty Trucks, Yoke Puller for Semi Trucks, for use with Class 6-8 Transportation Trucks & Equipment, 10803

https://www.amazon.com/Tiger-Heavy-10803-Puller-Trucks/dp/B0002UNPAA. The nut can be loosed by putting that section of the drive shaft back on the truck and loosening it that way. The nut is only torqued to 55 ft-lbs. I don't advise using a vise to hold the shaft as many people on youtube do.

The factory service manual says to use a brass punch and hammer to get the yoke off. Remember the yokes that hold the u-joints are bearing surfaces.

 

Not sure if mine has any vibration. Which speeds are people noticing it at? I wonder how you isolate it from anything else such as tires. Maybe one way to count out tires is to make sure they're balanced.
Balancing tires is probably not a big deal if they were bought new at Costco which includes free stuff like balancing; idk about other stores/shops. (balance and rotation). Problem is idk how fast it gets done, re: appointments and walk-in first come first serve lines

Well the big HFT shop press is like $150 FWIW

Am wondering how this works. I swung by the dealer to pick up parts and ask for any info I could get on this new-to-me Tacoma,
and they gave me info about it needing to come in at some point for a rear leaf spring recall
but nothing about other stuff like U-joints

Above I see posts saying Toyota used to do it up to 200k miles, and that this ended in March. Which is interesting because I bet many 2nd Gen's still are currently under 200k miles.
Speaking of mile "warranty periods" (if they're all the same), I think Mercedes's for their new cars is 4 years or 50k miles, "whichever comes first". And I hear the new ones aren't built to last.

 

I have this one. Works mint.

 

Best bet is to call the dealer parts counter and ask for the part# for your specific year. I do it all the time. The Carrier bearing for my 2011 has part # 37230-0K040 and the U-joints were 437104030. I tried googling, and typing in my vin to various online dealership sites but I kept on getting conflicting info. Bet bet is to call someone.

 

Go with Dana or Spicer CB, which is the OEM mfr. The driveshaft spins faster than the engine in 5th or 6th gear, so a good CB is a must.

Some years/models of Tacomas have U-joints with zerks, some do not. Those that do should be greased yearly per maintenance booklet.

 

Impact gun and balljoint c clamp works just fine. To each there own methods i guess. Quickest and cleanest way possible is the best for that dealership life

 

New spicer model u joints are sealed now. And Dana is spicer so all is well

 

For the U-joints, Yes. I have replaced many u-joints in the field with the HB ball joint press and a 1/2" ratchet and socket. Pulling the center Yoke off the shaft to replace the carrier bearing, not so much. Easiest way is with a yoke puller.

I haven't been to the dealership in probably 7 years for any sort of work on my 2011. The point I was trying to make is that people complain about drive line vibration, and U-joints being out of phase or having the wrong amount of axial movement is usually the culprit. They can only have 0.002" which is adjusted by the thickness of the retaining clips. There are some things that warrant taking a part to someone to have it done due to expertise or having the right tool for the job. You don't mess around with drive shafts.