New radiator, Expansion tank boiling/steaming.

I have just done a lot of work to this truck. New valve cover gasket coil pack gaskets, all new coil packs and NGK plugs. Also new air intake system/piping. Just cleaned the IAC Valve, (lots of carbon) I did this because I was having a hard start/rough idle Issue. I still have this issue, more so after the truck has been ran recently. If I start it and jump in it and go I can go until my radiator overflow tank starts steaming (and spraying if allowed.) I did replace the harmonic balancer and all new belts, I initially thought the belt wasn't turning the water pump but it is and it seems to be tight enough(2 finger push test.) I am thinking maybe the thermostat is sticking? there was gunk in the old radiator. The top hose going from the engine to radiator is Hot, (actually boiling and jumping in the hose) the lower driver side hose is warm but idk what the temp drop should be across the radiator. When I get the truck started it does smoke really white. I just filled up with 93 octane. could this be a fuel issue? is there a fuel filter? also I know that it COULD BE the head gasket but 4 Cylinders aren't known for It. they say it can get in the exhaust and cause bubbles etc. I'm lost as to what I should do, any and all advice with this matter is greatly appreciated. (PICTURES TO COME)

*** Problem has been active since slipping my Harmonic balancer bushing and babying it home. I drove the truck for approximately 45 mins and it didn't start steaming until I got back. truck ran really well ( why I don't think its the head gasket)

 

It def can be a headgasket issue, rare but can still happen regardless. A combustion tester can verify that.

 

There's plenty of blown head gaskets on 4 cylinders.

It could be you just have a coolant leak. After you drive a while you lose enough coolant that it stops circulating then starts overheating.

One quick test for a bad head gasket would be to start the engine with cold coolant, then rev the engine and see if there are bubbles in the coolant. You could just remove the hose from the reservoir and see if coolant is being pushed out when you rev it. That would indicate combustion gases getting pushed into the coolant. This is what I had when my head gasket was blown (4 cylinder).

There are of course more definitive and involved ways to check. This is just a quick test.

 

You don't have to rev it. Cap off and running will answer all questions. But really if it's puking coolant you pretty much know what to expect. If your exhaust is really white and smokey, you know what to expect. Don't run 93 in this truck. It's just a waste of money.

 

I have an '03 2.4 L that I purchased almost 2 years ago. After I got it home I noticed that I was leaking radiator fluid and it was over heating. After inspecting the radiator I saw that it needed to be replaced. I replaced the radiator and the thermostat while I was at it. So far I haven't had any overheating issues since.

 

The head gasket is definitely blown. and on top of that the head is cracked. I need a new head, I found one on rockauto for $617, its called "famous brand" looks good, new head with cams, valves, and springs. anyone have luck with them before? Also I ordered a timing chain and water pump kit while im in it. the harmonic balancer slipped the bushing so the timing notch on that didn't line up however I have Cyl. 1 at TDC on compression stroke and the timing dots on the cam gears line up. the timing chain is marked, will it be difficult to replace and get the timing back correct? I just figured its cheaper to do it all now while im in it. should I go as far to pulling the pistons and inspecting/replacing rings. its and old truck 260K and this is my last OOOH-Rahhh before I pull the 4 banger gas and throw a 4bt in it. Also, should I switch to synthetic oil? if so, what kind? thanks for the help. Raise hell praise dale, 'Merica.

 

The last time I had a cracked head I just dropped in a fresh engine.

 

I don't really have the time right now. how much did that run you?

 

Get a full built head from aprauto, they're based out of CO and build the head with new parts (yes they're chinesium but I've had 5k on one with no issue) and they're cheaper than rock auto, think I paid 550 a few years ago

 

Yeah I just ordered one from APR today, going to do the water pump while im in it. think im going to leave the timing chain alone as well as the oil pump. just wondering if I should switch to a synthetic oil or not. what do yall recommend?