How To: Replacing Carrier Bearing

In the middle of removing my CB the washers fell out and I don't know where they go now. I know the large one goes with the large nut. But where does the two skinny ones go?

Referencing step 12 in the how to. "Step 12 – Be sure that you replace the washers and nut back on in the correct order of removal."

 

Opposite side of thick washer. Thick washer and towards rear of truck, 2 thin washers towards front of truck

 

Okay so both thin washers go together on the spline coming from the front before new CB is placed on. Thanks.

 

Yes

 

I also wire brushed all the mating surfaces and the splines, but I have ocd.

 

I plan on doing that then hitting with brake cleaner and using grease all over everything. I'm also cleaning up and painting the mounting location for the CB and using new bolts. I may have OCD as well.

 

Sounds like a pro job!!!

 

I bought the spicer bearing and like some here my old bearing slid off without a puller and the new one slid on effortlessly but is not loose. Should I put on some sleeve retainer or is it fine with just a slip fit?

 

Slip it on, it’ll be fine. There is a proper torque procedure. Basically it’s really tight then back off to torque setting. Info might be in this thread.

 

Thanks for the tutorial. I get vibrations in the 65-70 mph range. I'm guessing a new carrier bearing will fix this. Is everyone going with OEM or is there a recommended cheaper aftermarket version?

 

Spicer is the way to go!!

 

Just ordered

$100 Spicer 211750-1X Center Bearing

Spicer 211750-1X for my 1995.5 4X4......$79 shipped. Too much play in mine and it's the original with 213k

What's the ETA labor wise with lift and fair labor price to install?

 

Not sure what a mechanic would charge in your area. It’s an easy job. Took me an hour max, just with hand tool and a torque wrench

 

Just met up with the top drivetrain guy in my area. Super cool guy, but he doesn't do work on the side because he is so busy with his family and farm. Damn, my luck. He told me to just unbolt the 4 bolts on the front and the 4 bolts on the rear (making sure I mark the spots on both front/rear) and bring the entire shaft to him and within the day he will change out my carrier bearing ($65). I think that is what he said

 

If youre gonna unbolt the shaft, Id just go ahead and do the job myself. Muscling those DS bolts out is half the work lol.

 

I recently had my carrier bearing replaced, along with new u-joints, straightened one drive shaft and balanced other... I took it in due to an ongoing vibration issue..
Before doing all that, you could grab the drive shaft and move it up and down approx an half inch to inch... I was told after, by a Toyota Tech, that was normal (the play in CB)..

After having this done, things have gotten worse in different ways.


One of my question for you guys is, did or do any of you have play in your carrier bearing?

One of my thoughts is if the play was or is normal, now with a less forgiving carrier bearing, it's shifting "issues" around bc it's not soaking the play up in the carrier bearing.... Hope that makes sense.

Thoughts? Help?

This has driven me crazy, I'm seriously considering getting another ride.


NOBODY seems to know jack crap on how to fix this or find the real problem to start. I've taken it to multiple shops, so called specialist, NOTHING.

 

Could be your vibration issue is in another area? Are the driveshafts properly aligned/clocked?
How many miles on the old CB? Was the bearing rubber donut collapsed?
Dude all can be fixed, don't give up!

 

Anythings possible at this point, I've even started wondering if maybe I have a troll hanging and banging around under there shaking things up.

It had about 140,000 on it when changed out. There wasn't any visible collapse like torn apart or whatever, you could just move the drive shaft up and down a bit...

I've been trying not to give up, but this is like a phantom troll on meth under my truck, with the best ghosting skills I've seen (or haven't) in a while.

 

140k is ok to change out the CB. Check driveshaft for proper alignment/ clocking.

 

So I changed out the carrier bearing from IEDSC poly one and it was all good.... for a while.
It turns out that the 3rd member u-joint sympathetically decided to fail and squeak something fierce.

After marking the driveshaft front and back, I attempted to remove the u-joint and it takes a BFH and some sockets you don't want and a few scrap pieces of 2x4.

Here was the result:



and the compar-o


Not saying this is your issue but its a possibility ...