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Engine Redlining HELP

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by matts113, Jul 10, 2019.

  1. Jul 10, 2019 at 6:55 PM
    #21
    Rachelsdaddy

    Rachelsdaddy Well-Known Member

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    Like he said. I found that if I parked it on steep hill (nose up) with cap off, it was easier for me to get the air out of mine. They can be a mofo
     
  2. Jul 11, 2019 at 8:04 AM
    #22
    Russianman92

    Russianman92 Well-Known Member

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    bilstein shocks/struts Add-a-leaf Mostly stock. Running 31x10.5 r15
  3. Jul 11, 2019 at 8:12 AM
    #23
    RysiuM

    RysiuM Well-Known Member

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    GQ7227 likes this.
  4. Jul 11, 2019 at 8:18 AM
    #24
    GQ7227

    GQ7227 mw survivor

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    309km east of Hazard ...the good life
    Vehicle:
    '97 black SR5 0g ~ MT @ 176k ...
    black woolWax, green IFC, borlaCB, custom Line-X PC drums, skid, nuts, hooks, 1/4 silver frame...
    cheap or frugal?

    using google university diploma:
    Being cheap is about spending less; being frugal is about prioritizing your spending so that you can have more of the things you really care about. Those who are cheap are often afraid to spend money. They are willing to sacrifice quality, value and time in order to cash in on some short-term savings.
     
  5. Jul 11, 2019 at 9:00 AM
    #25
    Fatal_Paradox

    Fatal_Paradox Well-Known Member

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  6. Jul 11, 2019 at 9:28 AM
    #26
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

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    That's not nearly enough for the temp gauge to spike, though...
     
  7. Jul 11, 2019 at 9:33 AM
    #27
    RysiuM

    RysiuM Well-Known Member

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    I don't know. The bottom line is if I'm going to use a tool once in a lifetime and tool costs more than the job, I will try to improvise (if possible). The only tool I bought specially for one time job was HF vacuum pump and set of A/C gauges - cost me half of what AC shop quoted me for the job. It was worth it - over 10 years later the A/C is still freezing cold. That would not be possible without the pump and gauges set. But never used them since.
     
    CS_AR and GQ7227[QUOTED] like this.
  8. Jul 11, 2019 at 9:41 AM
    #28
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

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    It's not an all or nothing thing, though. I spent $2000 on my front suspension and plan to spend another $2k on the rear, while at the same time balking at spending $10 on some specialized clips to hold my grill on when $0.50 in zip ties does the same thing.
     
    GQ7227[QUOTED] and cruiserguy like this.
  9. Jul 11, 2019 at 9:47 AM
    #29
    Russianman92

    Russianman92 Well-Known Member

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    Well, I do some major work on the side, BMW, Porsche, Audi, Mercedes, Toyota, etc... Engine swaps and such so that tool pays for itself. Some cars you can't actually bleed it normally without the tool due to the complexity of the coolant piping creating pockets everywhere (Porsche Cayenne for example). Makes it to where coolant fills go from 1-2 hours from fill to 20 min with cleanup.
     
    RysiuM[QUOTED] and cruiserguy like this.
  10. Jul 11, 2019 at 10:07 AM
    #30
    RysiuM

    RysiuM Well-Known Member

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    And that makes perfect sense. :thumbsup:
     
  11. Jul 11, 2019 at 1:44 PM
    #31
    matts113

    matts113 [OP] Active Member

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    Thanks for all the comments/help everyone. Refilled and "burped" coolant and no more redline as of now, some sputters in the gauge here or there (could just be some electrical things). Mechanic pressurized whole coolant system and said there was no drop in pressure at all after leaving the truck pressurized for 20min or so. just gonna let it sit tonight with some cardboard under it to see if anything is dripping.
     
    GQ7227 and koditten like this.
  12. Jul 11, 2019 at 5:38 PM
    #32
    CS_AR

    CS_AR Well-Known Member

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    Last edited: Jul 12, 2019
    Fatal_Paradox likes this.
  13. Jul 14, 2019 at 6:27 PM
    #33
    matts113

    matts113 [OP] Active Member

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    So the temperature gauge stays right below half gauge only rising to half gauge every once in a while while driving now. The only weird things left are 1) the gauge flutters its way up to normal height but wont flutter after it reaches normal 2) after a short time with the truck off (like gas stop) the temperature gauge reads 3/4 gauge when I turn the truck on then flutters back down to normal temp and stops fluttering. Seems electrical but dont know which component could do that. Still driving around because for the most part it acts normal.
     
  14. Jul 14, 2019 at 7:36 PM
    #34
    1997tacomav6

    1997tacomav6 V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger,Haltech, 800k

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    V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger, 56mm pulley, methanol injected Haltech ECU, AC Tvs1320 supercharger,(MUST DO) every 125,000- 150,000 needs rebuild Projector headlights HID 5 speed manual Amsoil for all drive train Smaller 56mm custom pulley, (MUST DO) 2004 DESNO fuel injectors, zero ping ping, 2004 side door mirrors Dick Cepek Rims, Michelin tires LTX, ATM Pathfinders Dynopro ATM ( that last 100,000 miles) Now running Dynopro ATM mud and snow tires KN cold air intake Cat back dual exhaust with ss exhaust tip, Raised exhaust tail pipe to 2" below body line Optima*dry cell battery,red top Alpine sirius radio, 200 watt amp, focal is165 split door pod speakers Focal door speakers Subwoffer behind seat Viper alarm, Electric Locks Dark tinted windows, bucket seats corbeau lg1 Tacoma Rubber floor mats TRD fender extenders, Bilstien shocks, King shocks JBA UCA trailer iv hitch, electric brake control, Drilled slotted brakes, High carbon steel (MUST DO) EBS green stuff 7000 series pads(MUST DO) TRD engine oil cap TRD stick shift, Marlin crawl shift kit. Rear sliding window 2002 4Runner functional hood scoop cut into Tacoma hood, 4Runner dual overhead map light Gentex Auto dim + Compass + Temp, garage,rearview mirror Snow Methonal kit stage 2 Custom 3 core aluminum radiator Linex bed liner Haltech stand alone ECU, Intake supercharger gauge. Stainless steel brake lines, Custom leather wrapped steering wheel, Haltech stand-alone ECU,
    You ready need to get a scanguage to know EXACTLY what your temps are running
     
  15. Jul 15, 2019 at 12:45 AM
    #35
    RysiuM

    RysiuM Well-Known Member

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    Being higher than 1/2 after engine is shut down is normal. the block is heating the coolant that is not circulating. The temperature of the coolant at the place where the sender is located is just few degrees more than normal but nothing critical.

    ODBII scanner will tell you the temp at the block read by the other sender.
     
  16. Jul 26, 2019 at 4:03 AM
    #36
    matts113

    matts113 [OP] Active Member

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    Just got a scangauge. Truck seems to run between 197-202 F while driving and when off with no coolant flowing it can reach 207 max. Is that a safe range. I also do not have oem thermostat which might be why I'm running a little hotter temperatures. I don't think 207 is 3/4 gauge as my truck is reading. It's the 3.4L V6 btw.
     
  17. Jul 26, 2019 at 4:55 AM
    #37
    koditten

    koditten Well-Known Member

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    Reserected from the dead.
    Those are good temperatures.
     
  18. Jul 26, 2019 at 9:06 AM
    #38
    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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    Temps look good as koditten said above. Not sure if worth validating your thermostat is oriented correctly. On the 3.4L V6 the jiggle valve in the thermostat goes in at the 6 o'clock position. Only motor I've heard of that gets it installed that way. But your engine temp wouldn't lead me to think it's wrong, just saying it's something you could validate for peace of mind if you want
     

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