dummy DIY A/C recharge questions

Toyota sells a air conditioning cleaning kit. You spray up into the evaporator drain tube. It’ll clean out the evap if it’s filled with shit

 

Humidity is on the low side at 17 pct. I could have sworn it worked better in the past even when I was in humid AF Houston but that's been years so I'm not sure.

I'll have to give it a shot, thanks for the tip.


I used an UAC condenser because Denso was out of stock, maybe it just doesn't have the same number of find and passages as OEM and just won't work as well

 

Agree on the temp being "not that bad".
Gauge readings are definitely important but can be skewed a bit by ambient temps and air flow over both the evap and cond. Also the generic "temp/press" tables may not correspond exactly to a given manufacturers spec. Best to use all the diagnostics available, pressures, temps, control functions, sight glass ect.

When I do a complete fill, it's by the high side, engine off, can upside down (liquid) and by weight. Pressures always end up in range. Also a system that holds vac may not hold press.
Verify the "milky" condition is milky, not just extremely fine bubbles. There could be some contamination going on.
I am guessing you have been thru the FSM. If not here's the Toyota spec/test with PSI conversion.

 

Down here we have sauna heat that is 90 degrees with 80% humidity. Passengers are complaining about the A/C being too cold. So we've had to turn up temp dial to balance it out. I installed the kit in the link. Though I left the evaporator and expansion valve alone. The only thing I see different maybe the receiver/dryer that I installed with the kit.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9821436&cc=1357589&jsn=1028

 

is it milky all the time or only for a few seconds after it starts or when the compressor cycle. If the compressor cycles rapidly and the sight glass is milky that is an indication of a low Freon charge. In the old days of R12 you added Freon and watched the sight glass for the bubbles to disappear. For R134a I do not see why the same doesn't hold true. It might only take and ounce or 2 for the bubbles to go away.

 

Pressures are ok although I added a little more r134 and now the high side pressure goes to 325psi while the low pressure is <30 so I think I'll have to have the system evacuated and replace the expansion valve

 

AC didn't do well yesterday and I ended up with the windows down anyways

 

Low side PSI was 30-35, compressor kicks on and psi drops to 25 and high psi goes 350+ before the compressor stops. I had the shop up the street evac the AC so I could change the expansion valve. What else should I do before charging the system? I plan on cleaning the evaporator core fins with magic cleaning foam.

Should I try to remove all of the oil from the compressor and start by adding the right amount from scratch? It's possibly I got some PAG100 in there from a past charge with one of those parts house oil+refrigerant kits.

 

52’ F.........not good. Here in steamy hot N.C. my Taco blows 40’F
( same with my old Kia I just replaced condenser and filter Dyer on .....40’ F also)