Tacoma Loose Bed design Flaw explanation

I just put a hole through 1/4 inch chunk of rubber and it hasn’t made a sound since.

 

picked up some of these. Going to install in the bed under the existing bolt/washer and around the sleeve.
They are 2inch in diameter with a 3/4 inch hole and 0.1 inch thick.. i measured the metal bolt/washer and its only 1.75 inches so should be a perfect fit. for those that want to install between bed and frame they would probably be good also.

Nylon 6/6 Flat Washer, Plain Finish, Black, 3/4" Hole Size, 0.81" ID, 2" OD, 0.1" Nominal Thickness (Pack of 5)

https://www.amazon.ca/Nylon-Washer-Finish-Nominal-Thickness/dp/B009OLOUQG/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=Nylon+6/6+Flat+Washer&qid=1560902634&s=gateway&sr=8-5

 

installed and clunk is gone

 

Interesting you fixed it this way. I did something similar a few years ago but I was to lazy to fight with the bolt. I cut a spacer from 1/8" heavy gasket material and stretched it over the washer. The bed has not made a sound in three years.

 

Since i was also worried about fighting with that bolt i used a T55 impact socket on my air impact and out it came with no issue...

 

I would move it under the bed. The bed is just going to keep rubbing the frame and wear down like before.

 

Three years out of my first shim. If the bed starts bouncing again I'll cut a thicker one and do the same. By the time the second one wears out it will be time for a new truck anyway.

 

@crashngiggles

 

My thrid gen has the same issue. Aggressive Offroading with an RTT is probably not ideal for the tent mounts or the bed. Very happy to read this thread and get the problem resolved.

 

So I bought this poly spacer. It's made of the perfect material, but I was too lazy to get up and measure the metal collar to make sure it fit. Mine didn't fit exactly, but I feel like the previous owner may have messed with it. I'm not sure. Anyways, I hit the inside with a dremel to widen the inner diameter and it worked perfect. My bed is fixed! Pics below of before/after. Thanks guys!

BEFORE:
Left Side (Normal)


Right Side (Not Normal)


Right Side (With Metal Sleeve)


Underneath


AFTER:
McMaster Washer


Underneath


Top


Thanks for the help guys!!

 

Well fellas reporting back after 6 months. Here are my findings and what I did. First I removed my shell, then I took each bolt out cleaned and used blue thread lock tight and torqued to 60 ft lbs. Rechecked torque and I put a Prybar between the bed Mont and the frame and all is still nice and tight after 6 months and several thousand miles. I beleave that the wight and the leverage that the shell provided it was shaking the bed and causing the bolts to vibrate loose. In my case I do not off road or get myself in a position where the frame of the truck twists I was having this issue as a daily driver and just running the shell.
Edit : Let me add that I caught this before it started to wear my bed. So washers we're not needed.

 

So what's the fix, I'm a little confused because some posts show below and some above. Is it running a washer both below and above the bed, or just a washer below the bed?

 

Well in depends on your bed. If your bed is worn you will need a washer between the bed and the frame. If your bed is not worn and the bolts are just getting loss, then remove, clean and put some blue lock tight on each bolt and torque to 60 ft lbs. You should be good to go. Providing you are not twisting your frame off roading.

 

Did you install on both sides?

 

The washer should not be installed above, that is incorrect. What's happening is the bottom of the bed is rubbing on the metal mount and wearing the plastic/composite away. By the time any of us notice it, it seems about 1/4in of the bed is worn away (see my pics above). The more that wears away, the more the bed rattles. The bed rattles because the metal sleeve prevents you from tightening the bolt any further and, therefore, you cannot clamp the bed back down to the frame.

At each bolt location, Toyota installed a large metal sleeve to surround the bolt. This increases the contact area and distributes any rubbing/flex force over a larger area, which helps to prevent the holes in the composite from wearing out over time had they simply installed the bolt by itself. In order to accommodate the metal sleeve as well as fix the worn away bed mount, you must install the washer on the bottom. This sets the bed back to the approximate height and level it was at when new and prevents any further erosion of the bottom of your bed.

If you install the washer on top, you will fix the rattle, but your bed will continue to wear away on the bottom side and it won't be level.

The McMaster Carr poly washer was perfect, the only thing I would have done differently is actually measure the size of my metal sleeve and see if McMaster had a different washer with a slightly larger inner diameter. But, it's easily adjusted with a dremel.

Hope this answered your question!

 

No. Just passenger front.

 

Exactly..putting the washer under bolt head will only temp fix it.the problem is under by the frame!!

 

I drove my ‘07 351,000 miles and never had this issue.

I have 93,000 on my ‘15 and have the front passenger side rattling. Took the tailgate off, took the spare tire off before I found it was this issue. Dewalt 18v impact doesn’t budge the bolt so I’m soaking it in PB Blaster overnight.

BTW, the truck has never been off roaded but some of the roads up here in northern NH are like third world countries.

I think I’m gonna disassemble my entire truck this spring and put anti-seize on every bolt...Maybe make this an annual event..

 

Good to know!! Hope the fix works for you. My 07 has yet to get this issue.. and I go off road a lot.

 

Beats the shit out of a rust prone one. When I was searching for a Toyota 4x4 pre Tacoma truck for my son I saw that many of them had rusted ass beds or no beds at all because you can’t buy replacements. The composite bed will still be here long after we have turned into worm food.