Maybe I'll work on my..... something.

Got a bit pissed off today while working on the car. Having issues getting the shift geometry right to have all positions correct. So, I took a break and started to install the solar panels that I was asked to put on the Airstream. Ofcourse, no walking on the roof and was doing everything on the ladder. I got the panels a little crooked and caused the tape to double on tje edge of the patch panel where the AC was. So, I will have to address that with a spreader bar to hold it where I want it. Not a big issue.
I have been fighting that spot since the start because the AC the original owner put up there deformed the rib and I had to work it into usable shape, but it was still a bit flat and the patch panel carried that lack of curve.
Anyways. Renogy 100w flex panels, wired with Renogy connectors on one end and SAE on the other to plug into the Zamp inlet. Held down using

$6 3M VHB 100x200mm~ (4" X8") Double Sided Foam Adhesive Sheet Tape 5952 Automotive Mounting Industrial Grade Very High Bond 5952 (1 Sheets 100x200mm)

3M VHB with bonding surfaces prepped with 3M VHB primer. I will put a bead of sealant along the edged and rivets in the corners with the spreader bar over the center edge of the two panels.
The rivets are just if shtf and an edge finds the wind. The 3M tape is more than strong enough. With the primer, overkill. I tested it by priming a 1" section then putting two pieces of VHB tape on (one with primer, one without). The section without took some effort to take off, but the one with primer was a royal PITA to take off. Every cell of that crap was biting onto the primed surface and was fighting to stay.
I will get some wire wrap and adhesive clamps to secure the wiring.

I also made them a "portable" panel (Renogy 100w rigid) with its own controller that plugs into the power jack on the side of the trailer. Even made an adapter for it with alligator clips if they ever need to charge the battery of their truck or saw sharpener battery (honda civic battery).

Note: finger in the pic was there to block the sun, it was intentional.

 

Holy shit, OP...I just read and looked through the entire thread from start to finish. Amazing stuff! Cant wait to see your car and trailer finished.

 

Sorry I bounce around so much...
Im waiting for some new factory style transmission cooler lines to get here next week. My -6AN lines wont work with the shifter linkage, fitting rubs and cant get the line away from the trans tunnel enough. So, hardlines it will have to be.
I was thinking about how I was going to put in a throttle pedal. The one I use to have in there wasnt going to work and I wasnt looking forward to another $50 pedal. Then, I remembered that I had the OE pedal from the Dakota over in a box in storage. I pie cut the arm on it to bend to the angle I wanted (different seating height than it was made for) and use the universal cable from the other pedal. Now it is hooked up and works as I wanted, plus it is comfortable to use.
I will pull the pedal back out and weld the cut, maybe copy the plastic base to steel.
I got an upper radiator hose today (big 90*). The lower looks like it will be about $60 for me to piece together, so it will have to wait.
Ill get more pictures tomorrow.
Oh yeah, my 14" air cleaner wont work, cant close the hood. So, I will have to get a 10" air cleaner or a carb hat and build a CAI.

 

Decided to work on the trailer this weekend a bit. Got it washed and figured Id put this on. Couldnt find my reflective red one. But, black fits better anyway...

 

Working on getting hoses made. After a little cutting, the upper hose for 77-79 TransAm 403 fits well.

Lower is going to be a pita. Also, I need to make spark plug wire holders.

 

Installed a new tranny pan with pickup extension. 5qt 12oz increase over factory. Being a mopar, the trans leak (snap ring cover) wont stop. So the extra is nice to have.....
New hardlines to replace the 6AN hose should be here wed.

 

After figuring out the final ride height and rake, I decided that I dont like the angle of the seat. So, I will be working on that this coming week also.
Soooooo happy that I put in swing out door bars.

 

Used some welding wire to make 3x4 rope which I bent to the shape of the hose I needed. Took it up to NAPA and went digging. Found a hose for a C20 Suburban diesel. Cut both ends off to get the rough W shape that I needed.
I do need to adjust the outlet tube a little to get the edge off the hose bend, but it will work with zero couplers in the hose.

 

Having a bad day on the car. Got pretty pissed off today. Ordered some transmission cooler hardlines for my engine/trans combo. Knew I would be cutting the front of the lines and having to tweak the bends a bit.
Well, lines got here at 4pm, and were in the trash by 7. Bends at the transmission were wrong. Bad enough that the rear line was hitting so hard on the transmission body and kickdown bracket that it wouldnt line up and the front wouldnt clear the shifter linkage (it would actually have been trying to share the same space as the factory linkage also).
Ok, I can handle it, Ive done a bunch of bent tubing and have a couple tool options. WRONG. As soon as I started to rebend the ends, they collapsed. I have never had a hardline collapse on a 90* bend in a supported tubing bender.
Ok, I will cut it, bend and reflare. Nope. The tubing actually got a flat spot from the tubing cutter and then collapsed again while bending.
Took these 3ft tubes down to 2.5/2/1 ft. Tried spring benders, roller bender, round brute force bender with support walls. Timr and time again. Didnt matter, this is the first steel tranny cooler tube that will not bend without kink or collapse.
F..... I should have just thrown the $$ in the trash, atleast that would not have failed my expectations. So, at the end of the day, I have 4 new 5/16 flare caps.
Didnt even bother cleaning up. Went in, took a shower, poured some tea and grabbed an ice cream cone....
Tomorrow, I gotta clean up and work on figuring out how to get this working.

I did get the fridge base made today for the trailer and first coat of paint on the cabinet structure pieces.

 

Picked up another rear end. Other one wasnt right after it got welded and I want it right instead of close. So, picked this one up for $75. Has the 489 third member, but open diff. So, I will transfer my sure-grip from the other one into it. Bearings and seals need replaced (its 50 years old and doesnt appear to have been disassembled), but the gears (3.55) feel smooth and might be able to be used. One dent in the back that I have to hammer out.

 

Round 2- fight.
Got the fill and drain plugs welded into the 2nd housing. Got the brackets cut off the 1st housing and modified to fit the 2nd and tacked on. Tomorrow, I will get them fully welded up then start on rebuilding the back brace amd shock mounts.
I am going to get some steel to raise the panhard bar bracket 2" to make the bar level at ride height. I will also be adding a flat plat at the top of the 4 link bracket, which will be a bump stop mount.

 

Housing length finalized. Housing ends will get welded on with an alignment jig after I get the new 3/16" backbrace (should get delivered tomorrow), shock mounts, and 4 link back straps welded on.
Tomorrow, I will be cutting the axles to length. I have to cut 7/8" off the driver side axle and 11/16" off the passenger side axle.
I also need to make the bump stop mounts on the top of the 4 link brackets.

 

Back brace cut to size and fitted. Axles cut to length, driver side just barely had enough spline length to get full engagement.

I have a spacer to weld between the two sides. Plan is to weld them on all the way except the gap. Then, I will pour paint inside with funnel and a length of hose. After the paint is in, I will put the spacer in and weld the gap closed. Once welded, I will twist/flip/turn the entire housing around to get all the metal inside the back brace coated.

 

Rear end all welded up. Threw some red paint on it to keep my hands from getting rust on them when picking it up. I will be taking it in to get sandblasted next week.

Project #71,893

 

# 71,893..... So what your saying is it’s in the top 10% of projects

 

Its up top because it will help me with another one while saving me money at the same time. No more having to hire a contractor at $300/hr to drive out to my property (including the 1hr round trip drive time) to do work. Thankfully, this one didnt cost me any $. Traded my toolbox for it and some implements. Sold the implements I didnt need for one I did and a thousand bucks. Using the $ to pay for new parts to get it in check.

 

Yay! They fit! 285/70R15

 

Took the hood & cowl off to wash them and gain access to the gas tank and radiator to clean. Dont like how the PO rewired it (ign switch on a bracket screwed to the steering cover and wires run thtough unused bolt holes). So, I will rewire it and relocate the starter solenoid and ign resistor to below the gauges. That way they are out if the way and the wiring will be cleaner. Will also put in all new wiring with soldered ends.

 

Tractor update.
Replaced all hydraulic hoses, lift cylinders, added second circuit so I can dig with it. Also replaced the pump driveshaft and couplers and reshaped the brackets that the cylinder pins hook to so I could drop the bucket below grade with it level.



I changed the wheel setting on the back to make it wider for future install of FOPS/ROPS and accessories. I used 1/4 steel plate to reposition the fenders. This gives me more room to get on/off and will allow me to mount the hoop on the top of the FEL mounting bracket.

 

Got tired of stepping on 1/2" plate edge to get on. So, I made a step.