Brake Override Malfunction - Dangerous

Has anyone else experienced this?

I was unloading my truck listening to music on the radio, all headlights/cargo lights etc. off for about an hour then went to start it and it was dead.
Radio still worked, all lights would come on, lock/unlock just fine but for some reason the “Powering Off to Conserve Battery” action never happened as it normally did in the past so it wouldn’t turn over.
Thankfully I keep jumper cables behind the rear seat and got jumped but then had this “Brake Override Malfunction - Visit Your Dealer” on display and the truck would not accelerate out of the storage driveway I was at almost causing an accident in a 35mph zone.
Scary as hell.
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Had to switch to Sport shifting and manually get it to redline in each gear to get out of there to a gas station to let the truck idle and recharge the battery.
Decided to disconnect the Pedal Commander and let it run for 30 minutes, hoping that would reset it and vacuumed out the truck.
Turned the truck off and back on just fine but the error was still there and truck was basically handicap.
Knowing basic vehicle electrical knowledge I disconnected the positive battery terminal cable for 30 seconds and reconnected and this cleared the error and she’s running great again.
Probably won’t reconnect the Pedal Commander even though the truck runs much more responsive with it.
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Hope this helps anyone in the future. Just immediately pull over and disconnect the positive battery cable and reconnect.
If you don’t have basic wrenches, small bag of tools and jumper cables I highly recommend you have them in all vehicles.

 

Glad it fixed it for you. Just FYI you should always disconnect the negative terminal first, then the positive.

 

I've seen this error when people two pedal drive, but usually doesn't handicap the truck... I'd bet your "pedal commander" is the culprit here, as it interferes with exactly what this error code is for and I've seen a lot of people with that thing have this same error on here.

 

ok so i'll ask the dumb question...why the negative first? and 1 more question does it matter which goes on first when changing the battery?

 

I think there's two reasons, today its mostly so that you don't accidentally touch the positive terminal to something thats grounded and short out the battery/fry electronics. But I think its also old school because batteries back in the day would sometimes leak a combustible gas from the positive terminal or the corrosive buildup was combustible (not sure never with old school batteries), and if you connect the positive and there's a spark... possible BOOM.

But I don't think batteries are built like that anymore, someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

 

Mainly your first reason. Modern electronics are too $$$ to risk. Negative off first and on last.



Also for weird system faults, pulling both terminals off the battery and touching them together can sometimes do wonders.

 

Yup, cuz "something grounded" is anything metal on the truck when the negative terminal is attached.

 

Yeah cause it doesn't matter what your wrench hits (except the positive lug) when u start w the negative. Then once the negative is off it doesn't matter what your wrench hits cause there's no ground. Pretty sure batteries still off gas. That's why GM has a ground lug separate from the battery for jumping, so u don't spark putting the ground on right above the battery

 

I believe you but....

 

This it true. I work for an Acura dealership service dept and we do it all the time for weird crap.

 

It was new for me back in early 2015. The wife's Forester's stupid powered hatch lift would work intermittently but never stored a code. I tried disconnecting the negative terminal a couple times with no luck. The time she took it to the dealer, it obviously worked flawlessly. I read about the terminal touch and tried it. The stupid powered hatch lift worked perfectly since.

The point of it is to drain down any latent charge in the systems to get a complete reset. You will sometimes see this being mentioned when working with capacitors to try to ensure they are discharged.


Up to the point that OVT added the DTC and LV Reset functions in the flash software, I was pulling the terminals and touching them together to get the best possible baseline.

 

Thanks for the elaboration this makes sense, great info!

 

No problem.


It sounded strange to me at first but worked like a champ, so in my mind, it is worth explaining.

 

So u touched terminals just before you flashed ovt? Pretty smart.

 

Yeah its always nicer understanding WHY something works.

Also really cool about OVT, was planning on getting the tune eventually but the more positive stuff I keep hearing about his work I think I'll just snatch up 2.0 soon as he releases it

 

Thanks, but it was noted to do by OVT in one of the threads.

Close. Flash, start the engine briefly to confirm everything is good, shut off, pull and touch terminals, and then start and idle for 8min. I've noticed that for me everything is completely smooth after 6min. Then,

Now, with the Resets being added to FM, I swap out the terminal touch for hitting the two buttons in the flash software. I have only flashed once this way, but it has been noticeably better for me. The 87 FOB tune feels completely different from my first try and for whatever reason over two fillups, the MPGs computed agree exactly with the hand calcs. Since new, they were always 0.5mpg high on the computer. I can't explain the change other than the Resets. That said, a couple other folks tried this and didn't find any significant changes.

The slew of changes written up for 1.05 threw me over the edge and has been worth it to me so far. Half for the very noticeable tuning and driveability differences and half for the small bump in MPGs. 2.0 sounds like a pretty large leap over that.

 

1.05 was huge idk what 2.0 is gonna be!

 

It is weird getting chub over some code, but that's where we're at.


Happy Friday!

 

More technology, more problems. This is why I purposefully purchased a 2nd gen over a turd gen