UBJ Blown and outer tire wear. OME 881 & 5100. What gives? (Was Front End & Brake Conundrum.)

I still keep thinking possible abs module. After you do the rest of the repairs you listed. If it's still there. I'd buy some brake hose and fittings and bypass front abs. Have swap front brake pads side to side?

 

There is a old saying, “Trust but verify”.

Remember when I said I bent over and took it from a shop I will never go to again? Well I think I found my problem.

The drivers side LCA rear bushing is shot. I mean shot. Looks like they replaced only one or two of the bushings. Shouldn’t an alignment shop have seen that???

Anyways. I am sure the feathering would be caused by this. Not sure about the pulling but guess what I am doing next.

 

It is possible for a bushing to go bad quickly if they didn't torque it down while the suspension was under load.

 

Really? Are they that hard to replace? I figure that an alignment is needed after so they would set and torque them to get the camber right. Anyways, looking at it i do not think replaced it. Looks old compared to the others.

I am now looking for replacement parts and looking to see if Timmy the Toyota Toolman has a video. Seems like complete LCA's are expensive so is there a downside to doing the bushings? Also OEM rubber or urethane? Does it matter?

 

Alignment shop should have caught it. Ya that could cause all your problems!

 

Whiteline poly bushings.

 

They’re tricky to replace, not hard. There’s a bunch of threads and videos out there. The most important step is torquing the control arm bolts while the suspension is under load. I guess it’s easy for a shop to mess up...most shops probably don’t give a shit. I didn’t tighten mine under load when I replaced my ucas and it’s too late now so when it goes it goes lol.

 

To follow-up @mechanicjon on the rear wheel bearing. My drivers side when the truck is in the air has a clunk sound and some axial movement when i push/pull from the top if the tire. Not so much if i do the same from the sides of the tires but for sure some movement. Passenger side does not have this. When i go over speed pumps with one side of the truck only i hear a clunk so i think these are one and the same and figure that is most likely the wheel bearing. Any comments? Anything else i should replace if i go after the bearings other than the axle seal and brake shoes?

 

Can't think of anything else. ?Here's the best deal on a axle bearing kit. http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/toyo...ra-ultimate-rear-wheel-bearing-kit-w-abs.html

 

Did research on the rear bearing replacement today. Not for the feint of heart. Need to figure out a plan for the puller. Anyone local have one? Would rather not buy or make a one time use tool...

 

Here's my experience with a similar issue.

I had my rear axle seals and bearings replaced by Toyota, before and after I could pull my driver side rear wheel straight in and out, which sounds similar to your truck. I took it back to Toyota and they checked it and said it was normal. It was weird that there was more play on the driver side than the passenger, but they assured me it was normal, and it's been like that for a few years now.

I also had them do an alignment, I believe 3 times to get it right. I was having a drift to one side (can't remember which). Eventually they figured out that my steering rack was shifted to the side (probably from when I did the bushings), but I don't really know how that's possible. They also said the rear axle was slightly shifted. They corrected both of these by loosening them while the truck was on the lift and retightening. After that they were able to align it. They only discovered this after they did the alignment by hand instead of by machine.

 

The bearing is a single row ball bearing pressed on the axle and should be a tight fit in the bearing/axle retaining housing. Shouldn't be any movement.

 

The in and out movement sounds like play in the diff or gears. Bearing play would probably be up down. Like you can grab the top and bottom of the wheel and move it up and down or side to side. Bearings are tough to tell. Usually there’s quite a bit of noise too. Should be audible by just spinning the wheels while off the ground.

 

Home after a long trip and front end is getting worse. My new bushings are not here yet but i am not driving this truck any more so i took it apart today.






Stuck a screw driver into all four bushings. Passenger side rear was shot. With very little pressure got this. The rest were alot better but i am replacing them all.






Then started to press them out and...






I also found the replacement cam assemblies damaged. Looks like someone forgot to align before they banged it into the hole. Geezzz...




New ones.




I hope this is the end of this game...

 

I never really had any faith in PEP boys maybe your experience is different. RZN161L I believe denotes a regular cab pickup. Toyota does have 6 different alignment spec depending on cab and build configuration RZN161L, RZN171L, RZN191L, RZN196L, VZN170L, VZN195L drivers door panel should reflect the number, similar but different. Toyota OEM manual is real good about detailing adjustment to get to desired from measured with a funky nomograph. I did a home garage alignment after new springs and 5100w 2in lift turned out real well. Measured it out and used trig for accurate angles.

 

Thank you @jsjs7474 . I have thought about doing the alignment myself. Especially before i found the bad bushings. Right now my faith in Pep Boys is directly proportional to the lifetime alignment i own with them.

Right now i will have them get things close and then determine if i want to fine tune it myself.

 

When you say pulls to the left do you mean when you let go of the steering wheel it goes left or when you hold the steering wheel centered it goes left? The former is alignment and the latter is just lack of centering the toe even though the numbers would read the same. Average shop rate is ~$150 an hour hard to believe to get anything of value for lifetime.

 

When driving and i let

When driving and i let go of the wheel it drives straight. As soon as i apply brakes it pulls and the steering wheel also pulls. Both tires are feathering to the outside. When truck is up on blocks and i turn the steering wheel to the extreme (either right or left) there is a significant amount of play left/right which was the LCA bushings.

 

No pictures to say but the job is done. The pull is gone and it was as expected the LCA bushings. Even the mechanic at Pep Boys who remembered the wicked pull said it was gone.

I added back the levelers on top of my 881's & 5100's so my truck sits level now with the OME rear springs. Had to really work to get them in there but it is done. Ya baby.

Thank you to @mechanicjon, @goldentaco03, @Dirty Pool , @Luv my yota @BartMaster1234 & @Catcrazed for your help. I am glad i figured it out but bummed i lead you all astray with poor diagnostics by assuming work that was done was done right.

I am pretty sure at this point everything up front is rebuilt or replaced other than the engine so i hope i am good for a while. Right now i am not going to tackle the rear bearings or brakes yet. I am not 100% certain that there is a problem back there right now and my wallet needs a break. Besides that i do not want to make a bearing puller right now either...

 

Just glad you got in man.
And maybe your thread will help the next person.