3rd Gen Entune Premium Head Unit specs

So a while back I tried to take some measurements of the audio outputs of my stock radio to see the amount of power it was outputting. Long story short, something went wrong (either from product malfunction or user error, likely the latter) and the numbers I got were way off.

Today I hooked the radio up on my test bench and ran a few tests to get solid numbers to share.

75 Amp power supply outputting consistent voltage


All tracks played from this CD. I used 40hz @ 0db and 1khz @ 0db, as well as pink noise.


Playing 40hz, front channels clipped at volume 53 with a 4ohm load and with no load.
*edit* the DD-1 actually detects 1% THD and NOT clipping.



Somehow, headunit did not clip playing 1khz at max volume under load


Front channels, vol 52, 40hz


Front channels, vol 52, 1khz


Rear channels, vol 51, 40hz


Rear channels, vol 51, 1khz


Now here is where things get interesting.
I played Pink Noise and got a much lower voltage
Front channels, vol 51, Pink Noise


When this test was originally done in the truck, I was trying to explain that when hooking up an LOC for subwoofers, one should tap the front channels in our trucks instead of the rear channels. As shown by the 2v output (1 watt) @40hz from the rear channels, I still believe this to be the case.

On the front channels, with 40hz playing around 8.5V and 1khz playing around 6.1V, this averages around 7V which should be about 12.25 watts RMS @ 4ohms if my math is correct.

The Pink Noise only outputting 2V is slightly concerning, but I can't say for sure whether that was a fluke or an inaccurate reading, or even if the file is at 0db since the disc doesn't specify.

 

@dolbytone @BearWithMe hopefully these numbers look a little better!

 

2VAC! Wow, so nerf, many sad!

Otherwise those look like similar results to what I got out of my 2V Pre-Out Clarion HU (maybe post TüN, I forget now). That’s the amplified output of the OE deck?

WOW!

I’ll poke around with Pink this weekend. The voltage on that surprised me too.

Something else I noticed is how non-linear the output is as you turn it up. Mine jumped significantly through the last 10% of fader.

 

I might have to test it again at volume 40/30/20/10 to see if it does that. Wouldn't surprise me. I feel like I was getting an extra volt just going from 50 to 52

And yep, 2VAC at 40hz to the rear channels at vol 51. It limits the bass so much to those speakers. Guess they don't want to risk damaging those 6.5"

 

These numbers seem more on the level, thanks for taking a fresh approach to your test setup. I think this will help people make informed decisions on whether or not to abandon the stock headunit -- and to not tap the rear speakers for a sub!

That's just sad. What is this, an amp for ants?

 

A few more tests to say we were thorough. The volume level absolutely increases dramatically once you’re past the 40-50 mark, just as @dolbytone recalled.

40hz @ 0db in 10 increments

 

1khz @ 0db

 

Pink noise

 

I always appreciate seeing objective testing, but the problem with using a DMM is that it's really only accurate at 60Hz. It might be OK for providing comparative data between channels, but for absolute values you'll need an oscilloscope for accuracy.

 

Yeah I would've loved to add in a scope and an RTA. There is a thread from what has to be several months ago where a user took some measurements with an AudioControl RTA and posted some results, but I don't remember the user off the top of my head.

 

If it's the thread I remember, I believe he was demonstrating the effects of phase shifts and time alignment. Seemed like more, good objective analysis.

 

As one more quick update, I have edited the original post but because I was using the

$198 SMD DD-1 SMD Distortion Detector DD-1

SMD DD-1, I want to clarify that this device detects 1% Harmonic Distortion. It does NOT detect clipping. I may have beeb able to push the volume level a few clicks higher before clip, but I think testing for less than 1% THD still provides relevant results.

 

If you tap the rear for a sub, couldn't you just increase the gain on the Amp to compensate for the level difference? I'll be putting a small amp'd sub in in the next week or so and want to understand why it would be a benefit to tap the front over the rear. I'll guess if you tap the rear and increase the gain on the amp by 6dB it would be alright. Would the extra gain amplify the noise excessively?

 

Yes, bumping up the gain to make up for a lack of signal input only leads to bad sound. The front has the power you need, so why not use it? Unless you plan to use fade as a volume control for the sub, it won't provide any benefit to use the rears. The only reason the rear speakers became the go-to for sub connections was because back in the day, most cars had 6x9's in the rear deck and 6.5"s in the front doors, so the radio was tuned the opposite way. More bass to the rear channels and less to the front. Our trucks have 6x9's up front and 6.5's in the back, so more bass is up front.

 

First day of ownership and I need to do something with the stereo. Faded the output entirely to the back speakers and was shocked at how poor the output is. Now it begs the question do I upgrade all the speakers first, or find a clean amp to add into the equation with a sub in the back. You really can’t go wrong by upgrading the stock speakers first as a clean amp or amps will make you want to upgrade them anyway. Any suggestions or previous posts to guide me?

 

replacing stock speakers and the tweeters in dash will make a dramatic difference. I will be putting in a Pioneer head unit tomorrow. Have not done it in years so hopefully it goes well...and easy

 

If my Entune Premium pushes 12 watts of output power to the six speakers in my 2019 trd sport double cab how is that enough power to drive the after market 6x9's that are 90 watts rms max and 180 watts peak and the rear 6.5 inch speakers with 70 watts rms max with 140 watts peak that i am researching to install in my truck?

 

A speakers power ratings are what it CAN handle, not what it must have.

You can send a speaker 1 watt of power and it will still play.

but to your question, this is a reason that I personally don’t like upgrading only speakers in a stock system. Aftermarket speakers have thicker cone material, beefier voice coils, and several other factors that make them need more power to play good.

Several people replace their speakers and then wonder why they lost bass, not realizing that a beefier speaker needs beefier power. It’s like putting giant mud tires on your truck and wondering why your MPG got worse.

 

Your analogy does makes sense regarding the power output. I am looking to upgrade my speakers to get better quality sound and capturing all of the frequencies without having to install an amp between the head unit and the doors and dash speakers. What would you do if you had the Entune Premium with stock speakers and without getting an amp?

 

Without getting an amp? JL C1-690 because they're probably the most sensitive 6x9 component you can get without breaking the bank. You will still probably be underwhelmed.