3rd gen Front Diff Actuator Problems

So if this video is the same for 3rd gen, the dealer is just trying to take advantage of me and make some easy cash ? They are telling me the only way to fix actuator is to remove the entire front diff from truck at the cost of $2000 - $2300.

 

That would be awesome how much you want for it? If the video is the same for the 3rd gen then i think i can do this myself in a weekend.

 

I've never done it, but I'm almost certain it is the same setup on the 3rd gen...hasn't changed in a long time. Tough part is accessing it

 

I took my skid plate off and checked it out it looks pretty much the same as the video as far as i can see . It does look tight but i can get a socket on both the top bolts so getting it out looks like it will able to come out getting the top bolts started may be a little tough.Just want to add the dealer also lied about the little black hose was not connected , it was because i checked that before taking it in to them. But it was missing that little metal tip or breather on the other end.

 

Small stream will do it. This happened to my 2nd gen actuator....went through a small stream and a little bit of water got in and fried the whole thing.


The seal around the plastic box isn’t really water tight. One of the biggest weakness to our 4wd imo

 

It sucks ! The crazy thing is 3 other 3rd gens crossed the same stream nothing happened to them!

 

I am going to try and water proof it as much as i can .

 

I also think that little breather hose is a weak link going to run a longer hose up into engine bay. Why does that need a breather?

 

I siliconed my replacement when I swapped it on the 2nd gen

 

Good luck if you go ahead on attempting a DIY fix. Looking forward to hearing how it goes.

 

Just ordered an OEM new actuator off ebay. Hope to have the part by Friday next week.

 

Well i got the new actuator but it had a shipping issue! Broken wire connector!

 

Might consider using one of the Permatex RTV sealers such as this for waterproofing:

https://www.permatex.com/products/a...nts/permatex-black-silicone-adhesive-sealant/

When I was a mechanic we used Permatex Ultra Blue exclusively on engines, nothing came close.

I would also use a good dielectric grease on any electrical connections to keep moisture out.

 

Laaaaaame.

 

I had a similar issue, it would freak out on start-up too though. I’d crossed deep water, 20k or so later it started acting up. Dealer replaced the front actuator, but now the light is on again with no water crossings in the mean time — and they’ve decided its the actuator /again/ — actually contacting Toyota hotline because it wasn’t setting codes — but on techstream, the 4x4 module was seeing both endstop position sensors “on” at the same time, jamming the system. Not sure if something else is going on, or if these actuators just aren’t very robust.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/4x4-glitch.635102/

(thread revival i know, but maybe it’ll help someone down the road)

 

The actuators look very cheaply made mostly plastic parts!

 

Good catch. You should only have DL1 and DL2 both ON, while the actuator is in-transit (mid position) if I recall.

 

dude, I had the same issue as you.
I looked at my breather was disconnected from the actuator. This was my first water crossing after getting a regear.
I suspect the shop guys forgot to put the breather hose back on after reassembling my diff…

I attempted to disassemble the actuator assembly and a 1/2 cup of dirty water poured out.
Two of my screws were seized up (probably just regular rust and seizing issues), so of course one sheared off and the other head got stripped and I couldn’t even drill it out — so ended up breaking the assembly plastic cover.

I found some for cheap online, ranging from $100-$215 ($215 being a brand like Doorman) for a pretty simple part…
I’m gonna call some dealerships tomorrow to see how low they can sell me one, but I may opt for the two day Amazon delivery for $215 and just bolt the assembly on.

I will reach out to the shop that did my regear and send the video of me pouring water out of the actuator. It is hard to prove that they are at fault.
Hopefully they will be cool and comp me for the new part, or future service, or some gear at their shop because I will attend events there (a monthly overland event is being held there next month) and plan to do tunes and help hype their shop — so hopefully they scratch my back a bit!

 

Good luck hope they do you right. I was shocked how much damage was done with such a short water crossing. My 2nd gen went thru many water crossings for much longer periods and never had an issue.

 

My Taco is currently at the dealership with a diagnosed bad actuator. I initially told them I assumed that was the issue.

Prior to the official diagnosis, the advisor called me saying they'd need an additional two hours (billed in full) to diagnose the issue “due to aftermarket modifications in the way”. I even pulled the front skid plate off so they wouldn’t need to, so I’m not sure what else they needed to move or disassemble.

The advisor said they’ll need to remove the front diff to replace the actuator. Is this the case with the third gens? I’m expecting a ridiculous bill coming, and they won’t be able to begin repairs for another five days.