Hitch length/towing

Hey folks, I just got my 7x14 cargo. Had it out a few times. Got to be honest I'm a bit Rusty at backing this thing into a drive from a narrow street. I purchased a hitch with three balls from harbor freight. The middle ball is the one I need but the pin is further in than the other two. I'm sure this is for strength/leverage. My old hitch stuck out a bit further and had a drop. Now to my point. I feel like with the ball so close to my bumper, almost every time I back up it gets dangerously close to hitting the bumper. Any logic on safety and length of the hitch bar?

 

1 this is the marketplace...

2 if your that worried about it return the hf one and get the correct drop hitch with correct ball for the trailer.

3 going forward or reverse the trailer shoundent get any closer if it’s secured to the ball correctly.

4 They do make hitch extensions.

 

Swap the ball you are using with one of the other balls so that the pin is further out.

 

Can’t, the ball is welded to the bar.

 

I have never liked those 3 in 1 welded together stingers. Most trucks need a drop stinger. As mentioned above, get a stinger with the correct amount of drop.

 

First my apologies for posting in the wrong section
Secondly I measured the amount of drop and the straight "stinger" works.
The ball is welded
My question doesn't have to do with drop or the connection of the coupler to the ball it has to do with the distance for the ball to the bumper and how close that puts my trailer in a turn. Has anyone else had this issue and what did they do to solve it. Is it advisable to add an extender or would buying a whole new setup best?

 

Why don’t you post pics?

What’s “close” to you can be fine to me.


What’s the tong weight?
Where’d you traveling?
Trailer breakers?


... there is a lot of variables


With out knowing what “close” is you can have 1/4” and be fine. Can also have 4” and be “close” but still fine

 

They have the hitch pin holes at different points to keep from weakening it by have them cross at the same point. Measure the distance from trailer hitch point(top/ inside) to the ground when level and from the top of your hitch ball to the ground with the truck level, the difference is how much drop you need. You might end up needing some truck leveling depending on toungue weight.

 

If you're worried about the trailer hitting the bumper you're probably turning too sharply which could definitely cause damage. Bump stops on the trailer won't prevent that but could provide a visual cue in the rear camera to let you know when you've reached the minimum turn radius. You'll get better with a little practice in no time, just be conservative until then and stop before you limit out. Try practicing in a mall parking lot if your driveway is too risky for it. A few cones or buckets to set dimensions and an hour of dry runs and you'll be gtg. The trailer will understeer going forward and oversteer in reverse. The practice is to learn the difference in feel and how much you need to oversteer the truck to make adequate corrections. When your corrections start to get smaller you'll have learned to anticipate properly with the ideal being putting both the truck and trailer on the correct line with minimal correction. Trailer corrections are in the opposite direction from the truck and with the oversteer condition it's easy to get bumper bound when you don't have much room and a tight radius to navigate.