UCA Thru Bolt Clearance

That's how he was able to do it.......

 

I used a wide prybar from inside the engine compartment to 'bend' the sheet metal in the direction required. No issues, able to put it back in the same way, with same method.

 

Don’t cut it OP. We’re all counting on you.

 

Got it with a hammer and screw driver punch!!$

 

Atta boy!

 

Which is the front left driver side UCA?

 

Those are both rear UCA's

 

There's only one way to put em on. The ball joint is closer to the rear of the vehicle.

Edit. The bottom in your pic is driver side. You can see that the rectangle piece with the star cutout goes on the bottom. Here's the instructions.

https://www.spcalignment.com/instructions/25480-INS_WEB.pdf

 

I'm leaving now lol

 

I helped him in the next post. Haha.

 

Lol with how much effort it was to take off, it won't fall off.

Know which direction the fuel tank strap bolts face? Straight down lol

 

Hello All, I know this is old but wondering if anyone has insight. STRUGGLED with the drivers side last night but got it back in. I, sadly had some hard lines in the way of putting it in reverse so I had to go the factory orientation. Is that normal? Doing the passenger side tonight, is there more room on that side to put the bolt in reverse or am I in for another sh*t show?

 

When I did mine, i found the passenger side to be easier. You just unbolt the ac lines fron the frame in the engine bay. I had a tough time with the driver side because of the battery hump area. I installed it back in the same way it came out.

 

Yeah, I had to use an adjuster in a light manner to get it passed that hump as well. I was in a bad place doing it. Hahah. Thanks for the info hoping I can get it done smoothly and just looking forward to getting on to the rear suspension since I am just doing a 1 inch block so I dont think there is much surprise back there.

 

I ended up cutting mine & flipping them around because clearance on my particular truck wouldn't allow bending. Like seriously, it was so far off I'd have to cut out the front part of the inner fenders, so far off.

Would I cut out the bolts again? 100% yes without hesitation. New bolts are cheap and certainly worth the cost not to bend/smash my sheet metal to hell. I reinstalled new bolts with blue Loctite and marked mine with torque seal to see if they move. They haven't moved.



Regarding the decision to cut the bolt: Read this thread, also read this thread. Of specific note, read this post where even Toyota apparently changed the FSM to say flipping is fine. Understand the risks/concerns and make your own decision.

 

Great info, thank you! I think with the appropriate loctite and torque specs I feel comfortable with the decision. It sounds like others had the same issue with the fuel line, etc, on the drivers side so excited to hear thats not an issue on passenger. Saving the $1200 for install is hopefully still worth it when I am done.

 

Yeah if you did the driver side i think you will be fine on passenger side. I did aal for the rears that is more tedious. If you're just adding blocks you just gotta undo the ubolts drove the axle to put the block in between axle and leaf springs.

 

Alright, after doing this last night time to come back and share. Disclaimer on I'm just a hack in my garage, but cutting the bolt and replacing it was 100% the way to go for me. It was an absolute cakewalk.