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TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Discussion in 'Performance and Tuning' started by 12TRDTacoma, Nov 8, 2017.

  1. Aug 12, 2019 at 10:15 AM
    Athlaos

    Athlaos Destruction Mode

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    A flux retro-capacitance encabulator
    I have an intake temp sensor gauge to be installed soon - can you take a picture of where you installed the thermocouples?
     
    Roostfactor[QUOTED] likes this.
  2. Aug 12, 2019 at 10:25 AM
    Roostfactor

    Roostfactor Well-Known Member

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    Sure buddy!
    Here is the inside
    20170909_172300.jpg
    Here is the outside.
    20170909_172324.jpg
     
  3. Aug 12, 2019 at 10:28 AM
    Roostfactor

    Roostfactor Well-Known Member

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    I had one blank switch position below the radio. I moved my USB plug to the center console so I had two open switch positions.
    The Davtron fit great there.
     
  4. Aug 12, 2019 at 10:43 AM
    Athlaos

    Athlaos Destruction Mode

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    A flux retro-capacitance encabulator
    Nice. That's better than the spot I had originally selected. Good thing I asked.
     
    Roostfactor[QUOTED] likes this.
  5. Aug 12, 2019 at 11:00 AM
    Roostfactor

    Roostfactor Well-Known Member

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    Where were you going to put it?
     
  6. Aug 12, 2019 at 11:06 AM
    Athlaos

    Athlaos Destruction Mode

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    A flux retro-capacitance encabulator
    Well I want to put one before water/methanol injection, so that'll be on the intake tube before the throttle body. The other one was going to go on the manifold itself, on the very front, right underneath the intercooler plate.
     
    Roostfactor[QUOTED] likes this.
  7. Aug 12, 2019 at 12:55 PM
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma [OP] Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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    Boosted
    Norton likes this.
  8. Aug 12, 2019 at 1:38 PM
    DocME

    DocME Well-Known Member

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    I'll let @Roostfactor expand on this, as I got directed to it by him after having an inter cooler pump failure. It is essentially a pre and post inter cooler temp gauge with fast responding thermocouples. The gauge has a switch that can toggle between pre, post, or temperature differential. Comes from the aircraft industry.

    https://www.davtron.com/product-detail.php?M308-42

    These guys sell a version of it with different writing: https://www.fastwrx.com/products/mach-v-digital-intercooler-temperature-gauge
     
  9. Aug 12, 2019 at 1:40 PM
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma [OP] Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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    Ahh!! The little guys he posted a picture of earlier. That is a pretty nifty setup, I like!

    I'll probably end up editing page 1 to include it because that is a useful mod.
     
    5thGearPinned and DocME[QUOTED] like this.
  10. Aug 12, 2019 at 2:20 PM
    zscott

    zscott Well-Known Member Vendor

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    I know this isn't supercharger related but the people in this thread are a little more knowledgeable than other threads. I relocated my battery the other day (its been a long time coming) to help save my inner fender. Basically used two distribution blocks (one pos and one neg) in the location where the factory battery was. Ran all the existing wires to the blocks, and then ran pos and neg 1/0 welding cable from the blocks to the battery which is now behind the back seats in the cab.

    No issues all weekend but today my audio head unit keeps shutting off randomly and when I parked after lunch today the truck went completely dead for a minute or two. No response at all. Then I turned it over and randomly it started up only to die again.

    Any thoughts?

    @12TRDTacoma I know you did this mod although slightly differently than I did.
     
    12TRDTacoma[OP] likes this.
  11. Aug 12, 2019 at 2:24 PM
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma [OP] Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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    The engine died, or did the entire electrical die? Like no lights on dash even if the key is on the "on position?"

    It sounds like you may have a short somewhere in the cabling. I need to know all the connection points and how you routed it all.
     
  12. Aug 12, 2019 at 2:29 PM
    zscott

    zscott Well-Known Member Vendor

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    The first time the entire electrical system died. Second time it was just the engine.

    I literally just took all the factory connections and instead of going to the battery they are going to the distribution hubs like this

    [​IMG]

    Then I ran the welding cable from the hubs to the relocated battery. I assumed that since I was keeping direct power (positive and negative) to all the existing grounds and connections through these hubs that I would be good and not need additional grounds from the relocated battery.

    Truck starts fine and doesn't seem lacking power during turn over.
     
  13. Aug 12, 2019 at 2:34 PM
    DocME

    DocME Well-Known Member

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    I feel like this is why we're almost always going off topic without a single course correction. The guys in here see to know their stuff, and all conversations eventually lead to more horsepower.

    I'm betting you have something a miss with your charging circuit or a loose connection. some pictures of the blocks would be good. Also, did you land the starter cable and the main battery positive on the same lug? I think this might be worth while to keep the connection direct as possible. Have you been monitoring battery voltage?
     
  14. Aug 12, 2019 at 2:37 PM
    zscott

    zscott Well-Known Member Vendor

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    All the connections are on separate lugs so I can do some fiddling there and see if having them on the same lugs changes anything. I haven't monitored voltage consistently but I typically see about 13.6 to 13.8 on my ultra gauge and every time I have looked it has been in that range. I will get some pictures this evening.
     
  15. Aug 12, 2019 at 2:39 PM
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma [OP] Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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    It indeed sounds like a loose connection I would investigate the connections in detail and make sure they are all tight.

    I also agree that you need to have a battery voltage monitor of some sort preferably inside the interior cabin. It's a useful stat to know at all times as it can help keep you out of impending issues downt the road also or it can let you know if you are drawing too much juice with the engine off.

    I think all of us in here seem to have a pretty good grasp of the subject matter and since we understand that one area feeds another, its usually always good talks. :) It was my intended goal to keep this thread primarily educational, yet fun and interesting which about 99.9% of the time it is, so I'm glad that it has all worked out along the way.
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2019
  16. Aug 12, 2019 at 2:39 PM
    DocME

    DocME Well-Known Member

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    I don't think that having them on the same lug will fix your issue, but the starter is probably the highest amperage draw the you'll see.
     
    12TRDTacoma[OP] likes this.
  17. Aug 12, 2019 at 2:41 PM
    zscott

    zscott Well-Known Member Vendor

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    Is the Ultra Gauge voltage readout sufficient or would you recommend something else?
     
  18. Aug 12, 2019 at 2:47 PM
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma [OP] Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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    The only thing having all the wiring meet at the same lug would accomplish would be ease and centralization of junction connection points so it would be easier to inspect from a diagnostic standpoint when issues arise, but if he has the lugs, he might as well use them right. I'm right on board with you though. I feel like he has a loose connection somewhere.

    I would recommend a dedicated gauge one whose singular function is only that.
     
  19. Aug 12, 2019 at 3:00 PM
    zscott

    zscott Well-Known Member Vendor

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    I just took a work break and went and checked connections. I may have found the issue. Looks like when I fold the seats back it is pushing the battery back in its cage and one of the terminals was touching a bolt head sticking out from the body of the cab probably causing a short (assuming the frame is not completely isolated from the cab). I moved the battery forward and put a shim in so it couldn't slide and insulated the bolt head with some gorilla tape. Drove around the parking lot a few times to see if it moved or if I could get it to short out. No issues.

    The original issues with the stereo were happening going around curves so it is possible the battery was shifting just enough to touch that bracket with the terminal.

    I will keep an eye on it. Thanks for the suggestions.
     
  20. Aug 12, 2019 at 3:23 PM
    TheFang

    TheFang No Big Deal

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    On that note.... what's the biggest tire I can fit without a lift? Also, can I fit 33's without trimming?





    Just kidding. :D for real though, we have some very knowledgeable people in here and I'm just glad to be able to stand in your shadows and learn. :hattip:
     

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