7x14 enclosed trailer camper conversion build thread.

Use rigid foam board as much as you can, polyiso ideally, XPS if it has some quality you need like the ability to slightly bend. I personally wouldn't use Reflectex for anything but windows when I want to sleep in. It has value but it's a specific thing for a specific application and it's rarely used properly.

The solar is a complicated question but the moment you mention AC I'll make it super simple with a fairly basic answer.

Minimum of 750 watts of solar, EPEVER MPPT 40Amp charge controller (giving you the budget version) with the MT50 monitor, 24V system, No less than 4x100 amp hour batteries and a 2,000 watt pure sine wave inverter with all associated breakers and so on. On a good day, that will run you $1,250 by the time you're done and would be the minimum I would even think about trying to run AC on, it can be done with less but would be a serious hack job. Running lead acid batteries below 50% reduces their life cycles SUBSTANTIALLY and trying to run AC off 12V systems or modified sine wave inverters is totally foolish.

 

What do you think of this kit?

ECO-WORTHY 1000 Watt 1KW 24 Volt Solar Panel Off Grid RV Boat Kit with 60A PWM Charge Controller and Solar Combiner Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BNKDMXK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5aBtDb339P75N

 

Much better than a lot of what I've seen people buying. What City do you live in?

 

@TucsonAZ , it didn't notify me that you wrote back :/.
I currently live in Oregon.
I am running into multiple issues talking with people about solar.
Also, the issues of footprint. having only a 7x14 trailer with a fan and possibly an AC is proving difficult to mix with solar. Possibly have to just go with the Fantastic fan and call it a day for cooling.
Or possibly run this Heat pump through the front of the trailer mounted above the batteries (

$798 Pioneer Air Conditioner WYS009A-20 Wall Mount Ductless Inverter+ Mini Split Heat Pump, 9000 BTU-110/120V

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DVW6BG0/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&psc=1)
I want to have a system that can handle a mini fridge on 24/7 (Need to find an efficient one as I am thinking my home mini fridge isn't.)
This water heater (

$254 Bosch Electric Mini-Tank Water Heater Tronic 3000 T 7-Gallon (ES8) - Eliminate Time for Hot Water - Shelf, Wall or Floor Mounted

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0148O64JE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1)
Water pump (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W5GCQC2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1JV6XN12ZQO1J&psc=1)
Flood lights (

$37 QUANS 10W 12V 24V DC AC Low Voltage LED Flood Light Lamp Floodlight Security Outdoor Waterproof Ultra Bright Black, 4 Pack Cool White

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J2TFA6I/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?smid=AWUSKMLB3J3ZT&psc=1)
Also, would like to be able to get some work done while on the road. So I would like to, if possible charge the laptop when needed.

Going to talk with the RV guy now.

 

One of my plans is to put panels on the side wall (street side) that will be hinged and also act as as window awnings.
I an going to be using Renogy panels.

Are you opposed to using a 12v chest type fridge/freezer?
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/csi-52-quart-fridge-freezer-459-95.560526/

This is the direction Im going. Too many projects, too little money.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/maybe-ill-work-on-my-trailers-or-car.375786/page-21

 

@windsor The problem I run into is enough power for the things i want to run. I have just decided to bring propane back into the mix as a fuel source. I was going to go all electric/Gen only but with wanting an A/C (Not knowing where we would be going) plus the fridge and electric 1440W water heater. It was just to much for a small trailer like mine. SO I will carry Gen in truck along with Propane. Leave Gen in truck and use power cord to run to Shore inlet when I want to use the Heat pump (Either for AC or heat). Put the propane tanks next to the tongue of trailer with a chain and lock around them when trailer is parked and in use. I will still use solar, however, vastly smaller than original plan. I will probably go with 400W with the deep cycle batteries. I still need to find a good cost effective inverter as well. This will power water pump, laptops, phones (there will be times I need to work while we are gone.) 12v lights, Fantastic fan, microwave and anything else I can't think of right now. I have never done this type of build so this is a HUGE learning experience for me. My background is Infantry/Counter Intel and Cyber-security/Networking. I wouldn't be opposed to a fridge like that if it could be ran from the solar setup I am going with.

 

At this point, I think I have highjacked TucsonAZ's thread more than I should have. I will be creating a new thread for what I am doing shortly

 

This should answer both of your questions with my experiences.

1) I would never use a mini-split in a mobile application. I see the up sides and I just installed that one on my parents house so it's a fine unit but it isn't made for a mobile application and it's a costly to replace. Spend the saving on good insulation and a window unit you can easily swap out in a walmart parking lot not if but when you have an issue.

2) Get a chest freezer and convert it to a fridge using a different/programmable temp controller. One that I bought actually have a course adjustment on the temp controller (most do) that allowed me to adjust it to be a fridge with no major work at all.

3) The water heater I don't know, I have it on a Lil Snoozy I own but haven't used that and am in fact planning to sell it. I'm not a fan of propane but showing is really high on my list of priorities so I am likely going with a propane tankless unit which will be the only propane thing in my setup. I'm sure you could make it work.

4) Shurflo makes super good pumps, I would also size my system as 24v and never 12v but either way they make good pumps. I actually think I bought the same one now that I think about it and I use a stepdown to run that.

I asked where you lived because locally there are typically AGM batteries from industrial backups for a really good price, often less than $1 per Ah, you may find something like that locally.

Either way you're going to want a hardy system, I would say you'll need 3,000 usable watts of storage in the battery bank (you can only discharge lead acid batteries 50%), about 1,000 watts of solar and a good MPPT charge controller along with either two 1,500 watt pure sine wave inverters or one larger one.


As I mentioned above, I would not get a 12v fridge, waste of money if you ask me, I have one in the Snoozy and if I kept that it would have been the first thing I sold. I also wouldn't get 12v panels, get a grid tie panel, much cheaper and match it with an EPSolar MPPT controller and you'll be much happier and better off with more watts for the same money. The solar awnings I've gone back and forth on so no opinion there, I like the roof for stealth and theft reasons but what you're suggesting would work fine just tough for my travel style.

He's doing an awesome job on that build and dealing with the top hat beam designs and curved roof well. I wanted to avoid both of those with my trailer but with that said at least he's working on his ( : I have some health issues that complicate my construction a lot or I would choose a much simpler route.

 

@TucsonAZ I just wont have enough roof space to fit that much solar.

1) As far as the AC I would like to do window for easy of switching but I cant as I am already running REALLY low on internal space and wouldn't want another from to hold an AC unit. Ill upload a rough layout. So, atleast for now ill have to go with the heat pump.

2) I can't. Again, the room. I need an small (made for rv/trailer) fridge. I have found a couple that should work.

3) I don't like the thought out propane either but with all of my restrictions I don't see another option. I was thinking about a tankless propane but I havent looked at which is more efficient (Tankless or traditional RV water heater)

4) I was looking at the Shurflo and thats the one I will probably get. I think ill be doing a 12v stepdown anyways so i should be good to get either of those. Yes, I plan on doing a 24v solar setup.

 

Haha. This is the best. I’m 5’8” and everyone says I’m short but I seem to have less issues fitting the world than all the 6’+ ppl I know.

 

Here is the rough layout

 

Thats the reason I am building mine. Couldnt find a shower I was comfortable in. Well, other than Sonic. But their build quality is ****, the one I was buying (wad on the way to pick it up when they notified me after my request for a shop inspection) had to go back to the factory to get rebuild due to water infiltration.

 

In the V of mine, I'm leaving the flooring open, the AC is getting mounted under the sink in that area along with the water heater to address any venting issues I may have. You are fine with a window unit, just mount it and either make an enclosure to vent out the bottom or leave the area under it exposed to the outside which you will need with a propane tank anyway. But again, stealth is my main issue so I want nothing seen from the outside.

They make small freezers that open from the front. I have this one:

Midea WHS-109FB1 Upright Freezer, 3.0 Cubic Feet, Black

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L7QVT8S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Works great!

I love being 5'8", it's the perfect height, I make fun off tall people all they time, they move like oafs, they always look like a lagging Minecraft player to me. I could do a 45 minute long comedy skit about watching them try to get out of a car. I'm sure there's some up sides but I'll take the longer life span and lower risk of cancer and contusion free head any day of the week. This isn't 1412 and I'm not a Viking, no need for large size anymore.

 

@TucsonAZ So mount the window A/C like on the face like your cabinets? with the rear of it towards the front of the trailer and the opening? I would like to go for stealth as well. Question for you.. What about spiders, bugs, rain, etc getting up in that hole that leads to the inside of your floor cabinets (if im thinking correctly)? What your saying sounds nice I just cant see it working. I would like to grab a cheap small AC unit that I could have in there I just dont see where it would go. Plus looking at water tanks and everything else. I will have no cabinet space by the time in done if I'm not careful lol. I have that same (type?) of freezer, however mine is a fridge.

LOL!

 

In my design you will see the front counter, there is a beam going across that space so basically I can floor the entire trailer up to where the v begins and I can leave the unfloored. I'm also making the entire thing and structure, framing all aluminum so that front counter will be tig welder together and basically separated from the living space (other than the AC unit and some sealed holes for water lines). This allows me a space for propane, the hot water heater, and the AC to be outside without actually being outside. Also allows the propane to be outside, the water heater to be vented and the water lines closest to where they will be needed.

Does that make more sense? If you wanted to build it differently you could build a box for the AC and have 4" hoses venting to the outside for the heat and such. Basically a portable AC unit which would also be an option as they do make a 6,000 btu unit. I also modded my window AC fairly easily with a relay, timer delay and hard start cap to reduce startup current substantially.

 

For water, these work very well to stop pump cycling/pulsating.

$40 SEAFLO Accumulator Tank Water Pump Flow Control with Internal Bladder - 125 PSI, 23.5 oz (0.75 L) | Reduces Pump Cycling and Smooths Water Flow for Marine, RV, and Off-Grid Systems

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M...jdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0&smid=A3VQTEFXHZ70BS

 

I looked at those, thought about getting but I know the Shurflo lasts for many years in the Arizona heat so I went with that instead. But who knows, they may be made in the same building anyway.

Something like this:

$216 WaterWorker Water Worker-HT20B

https://www.amazon.com/WaterWorker-...er+tank&qid=1565660763&s=gateway&sr=8-13&th=1

Is also a great option, pump fills it and you can shut off the the pump and get 20 gallons of water without the noise of the pump.

 

Figured I would add these to show the solar setup I had on my last conversion:

Here are my solar panels, I think they're 230 each, total of 1,340 watts.



This is my inverter, breakers, shunt, charge controller and so on.



This is my battery bank, I had to fabricate the seat mounting to fit two Honda Passport seats and mount the five AGM batteries under it securly.

 

@TucsonAZ I think I’m going to go with 2 of these.
Renogy 270 Watt 24 Volt Solar Panel for Off-Grid On-Grid Large Solar System, Residential Commercial House Cabin Sheds Rooftop, Multi-Panel Solar Arrays

Renogy 270 Watt 24 Volt Solar Panel for Off-Grid On-Grid Large Solar System, Residential Commercial House Cabin Sheds Rooftop, Multi-Panel Solar Arrays

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MY0XX1I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZiLuDbNJWP5K9

I just plainly don’t have room for anything more. I didn’t think about the fact that the tankless still needs a vent to expel. Working in such tight spaces and trying to fit everything you need/want is difficult. Still trying to decide on a water tank to you. Eye balling the stand up corner ones. Still unsure as I have no experience in this and everyone has vastly different ideas of what will and “absolutely” wont work.

I definitely like your idea for some sort of open spot under towards the front. I don’t have a V nose. However it is rounded and I’m sure I could figure something out. I like the idea of having a miniature room outside yet not outside in the elements.

Edit: Have you found a good tankless? Again, everyone says “X” is the best. Figure if you know about them and somewhat of my situation you may be able to recommend?

 

The MOST I would pay for battery power is $1 per amp hour and for solar $0.50 a watt, it should be easy to find either for that price. And you can certainly fit two 325 watt panels up there, I am planning on four of them. They should be mounted at least 4 inches above the roof, my vents will be going under them and opening in 4 different directions so I can always pull in a breeze.

Pretty sure I went with this:

https://www.amazon.com/Eccotemp-L7-...s=eccotemp+l7&qid=1565676924&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Along with this bottle to fit the space I have:

$62 Flame King 10LB Steel Propane Tank Cylinder with Type 1 Overflow Protection Device Valve, Great for Camping, Fire Pits, Heaters, Grills, Overlanding, White

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KOLF1IQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Any of the $100 units will work, I view it as a consumable.