Rear driveshaft replacement opinions

On my 2005 Toyota warrantied the drive shaft at 61k miles... Tried charging me 1600 for drive shaft and new motor mounts as i was over 60k.... Toyota rep worked with me and eventually approved it even though i had a lift, i ended up pulling it off anyway and replacing with a Tom Woods.... I wouldn't say either eliminated the vibration, in fact, the vibration of the Tom Woods was worse, but only happened at 55mph.... Think this lead to a rear main seal leak.... Just get some mud terrains and call it a day.... I would think anyone really familiar with the 2nd gens would agree that there is no cure all for all trucks, some exhibit vibration without even being lifted.

Some may think I am crazy, but I honestly think the wheeler's u bolt flip kit in the way that it connects the rear axle to the leaf springs helped eliminate a lot the vibration.... and axle wrap............

 

I went a few years trying to stop the viberation with no luck.
Dealer replaced driveshaft with new two piece while still under warranty, and it still had vibrations.
I finally went to local shop and had a one piece driveshaft made for $460.00. No more vibrations since then. Wish I did it sooner.
Two piece driveshafts suck on a lifted tacoma !

 

What is wrong w/the driveshaft you have?

 

What is the Spicer PN for the boot? I tried to figure this out when I had my driveshaft out but gave up. My boot has a 232557 on it, and this is a Spicer PN, but from what I found online with that number the dimensions didn't match up- and I didn't want to spend the $ and get the wrong part.

 

Spicer p/n#

$23 211932X Boot Kit

211932X

I had the same issues as you did, took me a minute to get that p/n figured out.

 

if someone needs driveshafts I would also call here. I just talked with them and they were very helpful and honest.

 

are you concerned about clearance issues? I myself don't wheel much. I am at a 4" lift and am performance oriented. I'm pondering a single piece as I'm at a hefty hp limit. with my new cams soon to be installed I'm beyond 400 at the tires. just trying to get educated here.

 

Thanks! Mine was ok, so I gave up after a few failed attempts to come up with the PN. You should add that PN to the "how to change the support bearing thread" as I know a lot of people would like to change the boot while it's apart.

 

A couple of years ago I contacted Tom Woods about a driveshaft for my truck.... DCLB.... was told a single piece drive shaft was not an option...

 

No clearance issues in fact about the same as 2 piece.
The Long Bed exceeds the single driveshaft max length listed at 70" for a 3.5" diameter shaft.
Most are DCSB so they are just under the max length.

 

My '13 Baja TX just started getting the vibration and u-joint clunk noise; I've been diligent at greasing the drivetrain spring/fall.

So I called the dealer yesterday; the service manger said he has ever heard of problems with driveline vibration with Tacomas?!? I had him look up the TSB...

Of the (6) Toyota trucks/4Runners I've owned, never once had an issue with u-joint or drivetrain vibration.
1983 2x Hi-lux
1987 4x pickup 22R drove to 200k
1998 4Runner V6 drive to 189k
2002 4Runner Lmtd to 192k
2007 Taco 4D OR drive to 100k
2013 Taco 4D Baja Tx @ 101k

How to proceed? Where can you find that Toyota warranty statement for drivetrain? I have a 2013....anyone have a contact email for Toyota?

I did purchased (3) Moog Precision U-joints (#270) and Beck Arnley center bearing (#

$54 101-7913 Driveshaft Center Support Assembly

101-7913) from Rock Auto $101. Thinking I could do a rebuild myself. Couple good YouTube's out there....looks not so hard a repair....

 

My driveshaft "exploded" today. Or really, just the flange and u joint. They decided to crap out going 70 on the interstate...on a cross country trip from Utah to Florida...currently broken down in the middle of nowhere Kansas. Dreams do come true.

Heard a loud BANG, swerved as the rear axle lost all power, and came to an emergency stop. Got out of the car and, lo and behold, the rear drive shaft was hanging about a foot off the trans in the air. At thatmoment I knew, yep I'm f*ed.

Managed to push the car to the nearest exit. I've called all the auto parts shops, junk yards, and Toyota dealers in a 3 hour radius and nobody carries the flange yoke. As others have mentioned, the Toyota stealership can special order the entire driveshaft for a mere $1028. You can get a much stronger offroad one custom made for that.

The crazy thing is, the entire driveshaft, including these parts, was replaced 2 years ago at the Toyota dealer under the driveshaft "warranty enhancement" program...a fancy name for a recall that they'll fix.

I decided to order the flange and u joint online and have it overnighted. My question is, does anybody know if other vehicles use the same 1330 flange and u joint (tundra, 4runner, FJ, etc)???

 

Wow I need to get mine fixed ASAP!

How many miles on your truck?

Glad nobody hurt

 

Thanks firsttraxxx, yeah man def get it fixed before it blows up on you going 70. Good job on greasing and maintaining. Easy to forget about these parts. Unfortunately the warranty claim period expired (like sometime 2018 I think...they should have sent you a letter in the mail but I've heard of a lot of ppl not getting their letter)...but still worth getting fixed before something worse happens

 

https://www.toyoheadquarters.com/th...universal-joints-warranty-extension-zh2.1096/

*primary coverage expired April 30 2019. Maybe you can get in under the secondary coverage

 

Picked up my truck today from having the 3 I joints and carrier bearing replaced. Vibration is totally gone. A humming noise remains tho. He told me the front u joint was destroyed and the other 2 weren’t that bad. Funny Toyota wanted to replace the rear section which wouldn’t have fixed the front u joint.

On a side note he asked if the drive shaft had been taken out before. As the 2nd owner I wasn’t sure what was done before I bought. I did get the frame replacement though a month or so back. He said the carrier bearing wasn’t installed right and the angle of the shaft was off. Wonder if that’s what messed up the u joint.