1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

Transfer Case Actuator Problems

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by ijonahtacoma, Oct 14, 2017.

  1. Oct 14, 2017 at 6:42 PM
    #1
    ijonahtacoma

    ijonahtacoma [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 8, 2017
    Member:
    #232407
    Messages:
    64
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jonah
    Vehicle:
    2005 Black Tacoma with the turtle shell
    Seriously I'm just learning how to work on this thing.
    Hey everyone.

    So I purchased a 2005 Tacoma with 171xxx on it, and since I bought it the 4wd has not been able to engage. The 4 LO light just constantly blinks on the dash. The seller had the dealership replace the switch on the dash and that did not fix the problem, so they diagnosed it as needing a new ADD actuator, which locks the front differential. I did some research and found that this is indeed a common problem, but if you drain your front differential and pull out he ADD you can sodder the connection yourself and forgo spending 200 or so on the part.

    Today, I pulled out the actuator, opened it up, and hooked it to a 9 volt battery. And what do you know, it works. The motor spins, the connection points appear to be fine.

    I got back to my truck and proceeded to think about what would occur between the actuator and the dashboard switch.

    As I was checking out the transfer case, I noticed there's an actuator there, and it had been unplugged and the plug/connector had been zip tied as not to hang. I am pretty sure this was done by the dealership because the guy I purchased it from said the 4wd would ENGAGE but not disengage. Which I didn't find to be true, but of course this actuator was unplugged. So, for better or for worse, I plugged that baby in and started the truck. For one glorious moment, the 4 LO light was gone, and the truck was just reading as being in 2 HI. Which was correct. I held my breath, and turned the knob to 4 HI. I heard the loud chunk that you would hear as the power is diverted to the front axles but the 4 LO light immediately started flashing, I do not believe any power reached the ADD actuator on the front diff.

    Here's my question: has anyone had their transfer case actuator go out, did you replace it yourself, how hard was it, and if you didn't, how much did you spend at getting it done at a shop/dealership?

    Any other input is welcome if you think there's something else going on.

    In my mind, it's definitely this transfer case actuator. I believe the truck is now stuck in 4WD (I can't tell yet because the front wheels are off and it's on jacks), but the fact that I heard it engage but it just won't DISENGAGE tells me this is the problem part.

    Long post, I know. I just wanted to give some detail so maybe someone else with more experience would have some insight.

    Thanks.

    P.S. If indeed the transfer case actuator engaged, I should reinstall the ADD actuator with the hubs locked, correct? Honestly, it's going to start snowing like crazy where I live and if my truck is stuck in 4WD, it won't be a problem until April. haha.
     
  2. Oct 14, 2017 at 7:12 PM
    #2
    Taco'09

    Taco'09 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 31, 2008
    Member:
    #12073
    Messages:
    1,877
    Gender:
    Male
    OP, if you have a VOM meter this should help.

    1. Enter site on pg. 1 of this .pdf and on page 2 click on the Tacoma tab at the top of the page: http://www.itpstrategic.com/samples/UOT/QT312H 4WD COMPILATION FINAL.pdf
    2. At this point do not take apart the transfer case actuator. It is a bear to get re-clocked.
    3. The transfer case actuator can be replaced but it is mega bux. Further there are two e-clips on the end of the actuator shaft that enters the case and you have to remove and open the case to take off the clips and slide the actuator shaft out.
    4. Your best bet, before you start doing surgery on the t.case/actuator, is to follow the electrical diagnostics steps in the document linked.
     
    gearcruncher likes this.
  3. Oct 14, 2017 at 7:16 PM
    #3
    old55guy

    old55guy Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2016
    Member:
    #191623
    Messages:
    330
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    mike
    Vehicle:
    2011 dcsb trd white
    none
    My 2011 xcase actuator with 55,000miles sucks ! sometimes it will go in 4 lo , but most of the time it will not !
    I will be installing a fj cruiser case soon , you can find good used ones with a manual shifter mine was $400.00 , It"s a direct replacement , driveshafts bolt right up , do a search Rocksolidtoys .com Good luck
     
  4. Oct 14, 2017 at 7:18 PM
    #4
    ijonahtacoma

    ijonahtacoma [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 8, 2017
    Member:
    #232407
    Messages:
    64
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jonah
    Vehicle:
    2005 Black Tacoma with the turtle shell
    Seriously I'm just learning how to work on this thing.

    Thank you. I have a friend who's a good electrician and he can maybe make sense of this.
     
  5. Aug 25, 2019 at 3:10 PM
    #5
    ToyoRideBFG23

    ToyoRideBFG23 Clifford, the big red Yota Beast

    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2018
    Member:
    #268409
    Messages:
    160
    Gender:
    Male
    So-Cal
    Vehicle:
    2011 Toyota Tacoma OR Edition 4WD
    Front: 2.5 Icons extended travel remote reservoir CDCV, JBA Offroad High caster Arms, Wheelers super bumps Rear: Bilstien 5125, 1.5” AAL, Other: Front tube bumper, FJ T-Case, 285/75/16 BFG KO2s, Black Rhino Chamber wheels -10 offset with 1.25”wheel spacers, Nilight Ditch lights and LED Fogs. Upcoming Mods: Hammer Hangers, Icon RXT leaf pack, Icon 2.0 VS Series Remote Reservoirs.
    Have you ever took a transfer case actuator apart? I’m working on mine but I can’t find the right position the 3 contact points to be set at so it can work properly. Its a big pain but there’s so many options to set it. And we can’t figure it out. Or do you know if any diagram that shows the internals of the actuator?
     

Products Discussed in

To Top