Lower Control Arm Seized?

I'll do a video this weekend of getting them off. I'm going to be lubing them every day until then. I'll try using the breaker bar, then heat, then cutting as the last resort.

I wish I knew about the Moog LCAs before now. My wife tells me that they were already delivered.

 

maybe you can return the MOOGS,best prices on OEM units ive found https://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-TO...CONTROL-ARM-48069-04040-/173969097702?vxp=mtr https://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-TO...CONTROL-ARM-48068-04040-/173969097667?vxp=mtr

 

I replaced mine back in April and used a saw zaw to cut them out. Went thru 2 packs (total 10) of blades that I got from Lowe’s. I forgot the brand but I remember finding a thread on here. I went with all oem parts. It was a PITA but I’m glad I saved money in labor for sure.

 

Buy a pack of Diablo blades.

 

Agree with Winkel above, I used Diablo Steel Demon blades to cut through the lower control arm bolts. These blades, available at HD grab hold and cut quickly through the metal. Just be careful not to cut the frame. They are pricey ($15.00 each) but work very well. I also tried penetrating oil, heating and sheer brute force, no go. Cutting was the only way here. When installing the new caster/camber cams and bolts, be sure to grease them thoroughly to avoid seizing in the future.

 

These were recommended in my local thread. Thought it was on topic here... they were talking about these with whiteline busings and total chaos and marlin reinforcements.


https://www.polyperformance.com/pol...5-tacoma-03-09-4runner-gx470-07-09-fj-cruiser

 

I got the job done this weekend. I ended up having to cut them off, too. I was hoping that when I disconnected the ball joint/lower ball joint attachment and the shock mount, the lower control arm would swing down so that I could get the angle grinder in there. Even completely disconnected from the suspension, the LCAs were locked in place and wouldn't hang down like in MYKOSPRO's picture. I bought a pack of the Lenox blades from Lowes and went through one and a half blades for my first cut that took about an hour. I ended up going to Home Depot to get the Diablo blades and that blade is amazing. I made the other seven cuts through the sleeves in no time and the blade is still good to use. I just kept it lubed and cooled with some WD-40.


I put anti-seize on the cam bolt sleeves and along the cam bolts that go through the bushings. I also put some anti-seize on the back of the cams.


Time will tell how well the balljoint on the Moogs hold up.

 

I need to sack up and do this

 

what brand cam bolts did you use? looks like those Diablo blades are the only way to go

 

I got sick and tired of changing my LCA's every few months (moog) and wasn't willing to fork out the $$$ for OEM (which is good but the spacer that runs through the bushing is molded in place which will eventually cause the bushing to take a crap) so I reworked oem LCA's with whiteline bushings & new moog BJ's - I also welded up and in the TC Gusset kit as the alignment shop accidentally flattened the OEM sheet metal trash.

I haven't had an issue with the MOOG cam bolts yet.. but when/if i do, i'll give this https://www.polyperformance.com/poly-performance-taco-tabs-alignment-cam-delete-kit-for-toyota-05-15-tacoma-03-09-4runner-gx470-07-09-fj-cruiser a try.

Photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/doFKPxCTbzvR39Z59

 

It looks like they are SPC which I also think is the same as Wheelers version.

 

I got the MEVOTECH MS86036 cam bolts off of Rockauto.com (one set for one LCA). Rockauto also has some AC Delco ones for twice as much that come with zirk fittings in the sleeves. I opted to put anti-seize inside the bushing sleeve, on the cam bolt, and then on the cam faces instead.

I can't recommend the Diablo blade enough. It was night and day from what we were trying to do. I was tempted to take the angle grinder to the LCA and cut everything off except the bushing to make room for the angle grinder to get to the bushing. No need to do any of that if you just get the right blade at the start. My son sprayed the blade with WD-40 whenever it stopped smoking during the cut. Keeping the blade cool and lubed made it very quick, too.

 

Yes, use WD-40 while you're cutting and one blade should get you through them in no time. Years ago, I did my T-100 LCA bushings with some Milwaukee blades. It took FOREVER! Use Diablo and WD-40 and you'll make short work of them.

 

Where in Maryland are you? PM me and we might be able to tag up to do your truck.

 

I'm planning to replacing the bushings on my 1st gen LCAs (as well as the lower ball joints), and with 300k miles and tons of rust, it's very likely the bolt & alignment cams are rust-welded in place. In preparation of this, I was getting a parts list together for new OEM LCA assembly so I can pull the trigger quickly and get my truck back up and running again.

I currently see an OEM LCA for $247 from Camelback Toyota (link) which appears to come with bushings. Or Moog has part RK640892 which is $93 (link). I realize this post is like 10 years old, but $247 is a lot less than $1800 so I'm wondering if I'm missing something critical here.

 

There is a easier way to get the front ones out without cutting them remove the bolt and use a air hammer with a chisel tip and go at the cam from the backside this with break the harden steel very easy and no cutting is needed pop the front cap off the cam and when the rear cam is removed you can get it out easily, wear safety glasses. The rears will need to be cut, I’ve had luck breaking them free with a big impact with a wobble socket going forward and back several times and air hammering the cam from the back with a nut threaded on you
Might have to grind the end of the cam off were you air hammered from the back or just replace it if it does break free. Do not recommend any aftermarket cams they do not work as well as the factory at all. Use anti seize on the new cams and inside the bushings. Anything aftermarket that’s like a complete arm are usually junk. White line bushings are decent not sure how long there going to be available they are made in Russia. If your going rubber use factory.

 

I had the same problem with LCA's on my truck, ended up sawzall/burn/press and then sawzall the sleeves out. Scored and extra set to build replacements.

 

I was worried about the MOOG LCAs, but I got them and they have been great. Plenty of off-roading with them. No issues with them seizing. No issues with the ball joint.

 

Hi all,

I recently went to get an alignment and got the bad news that my cam bolts were seized. I'm hoping to get this sorted soon as I have a roadtrip on the horizon about two weeks out. If the cams were too seized too rotate what are the odds that I'll be able to extract the sleeves? I'm prepared to get a pair of new . The video for their extractor tool makes replacement look pretty painless, but I'm worried about opening a can of worms here.

Should that sleeve be seized in there, I assume I'm then looking at cutting them out and replacing the bushings (at which point new LCAs might be more cost effective). This one really seems to snowball.

 

@reyj96 That extractor tool looks like a smaller BJ C-clamp. I find it humorous they show the extractor pushing out a nice clean bolt. You can try a regular size C-clamp to see if you can replace the seized bolts before your trip. Otherwise, if the alignment is not too bad and BJ’s look good otherwise, I would wait.

I had a driver-side seized front cam bolt. Cut it with a Diablo blade and replaced the bolt with Febest parts. Holding up after five years, remember to coat the sleeves with grease on install.