New Build Project...some questions, probably dumb.

OK, I've been rooting around here for a couple of weeks and an advertiser of mine asked me to do a Toyota project in TRAILS Magazine. I bought a 2006 Access Cab TRD OR and we're off to the races.

The questions are these and excuse my poor search-fu if these have been answered and I couldn't find them.

1) I see a lot about tires size increases but nothing about re-gearing the diffs. Do you re-gear or just shift down? Seems that the relative ratio change wouldn't be large but still advisable for max power but...? I'm running a 4.0/Auto.

2) Is there a favorite compressor for airing up tires? Since it's going to be 33s or shorter, are there good single compressor versus the expense of a double ARB?

3) Does any one make lighter swaybars, swaybar disconnects or something like a Currie Antirock? Do most just remove it? Trying to find the balance between cloverleaf on-ramp disaster and good flex on the trail.

Thanks in advance, this has been a lot of fun so far.

John

 

#1 regear ,#2 good simple compressor should work,#3 a good fab guy should be able to make some quick disconnects for the factory sway bar

 

1. You don’t have to regear with 33s. Some go 4.56 to get back into factory ratios for that size. Depending on tire some “285s” and equivalent metric size tires run anywhere from 32.XX” to 34.XX”. Some on the larger end may feel a little bit sluggish and some owners will regear.
You can also find 255/75r16s, if you have 16” wheels. They’re significant skinner that regular 285s and are light enough that they don’t require. Just keep tire weight in mind, that’s the biggest factor along with radius.

2. Lots of cheaper options for occasional use. Guys like ARB cause they’re extremely reliable for regular use and for larger tires. Anything under 33’s won’t need something big and fancy if you’re not in a rush. Lots of guys use the master flow compressor with good luck.
Master Flow MF-1050 Tire Inflator

Tire Inflator, Portable 12 Volt Air Pump, Air Compressor by MasterFlow for Inflating Full Size 4 x4, Truck, SUV and RV Tires

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000L9AD2U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_esCzDb21HJFKS

3. Most remove it. To my knowledge, there aren’t any aftermarket complete sway bars. I believe there are some end links out there, but no one makes a Tacoma specific aftermarket. Same with disconnects, I’ve not seen any.

Good luck!

 

does this mean that a TRD Off-Road sway bar is at least better than a TRD Sport (likely larger diameter mm size and stiffer)

 

Yes off road sway bar I think is less stiff and smaller diameter. I think that is what you are saying

 

1)I regeared recently I’m fully armored and 33s made a HUGE difference in drivability. With stock gears total slug and wouldn’t shift into OD on the hwy unless down hill with a tailwind. If your just lifted and tires you judge it then for your liking.

2) I have a single arb under hood love it but the Vaiair is very popular and more than enough.

3) I removed my sway bar because I have stiff springs didn’t notice much more body roll. It takes 20min to remove it and same to install. Take it off for wheeling trips install back for DD.

 

Not sure about re gearing I have 32.5’s and I definitely noticed a change

For a compressor I have a viair pump and it works perfect for my tires about $170 if I remember correctly.

 

As for the swaybar, I keep eyeballing the way it attaches at the front of the frame and thinking that some kind of Currie Antirock style could be made to work with some appropriate link arms. The other thing I've considered is the JKS dual rate swaybar link that replaces one side's fixed length link and allows a softer action until the dual rate springs inside go into coil bind. It's about the right size. It can also be clocked 90* degrees like stock.

 

Interesting project. You’ll have to post a link when it’s published

In case you didn’t know, Toyota made a head gasket redesign in December 2005 for the 4.0.

Engines manufactured before 12/05 have a head gasket design that MAY be more susceptible to failure. Affects ‘05 & ‘06 MYs.

What’s the build date of your ‘06?

 

I just checked and it's 04/06. Unsure where to check engine date code but I'm sure it's there somewhere. So far no evidence of a problem. If you have more info I'm all ears.

 

Unless there’s any evidence of an engine swap, I would think you’re in the clear!

 

A sway bar disconnect won't work because the disconnected end will destroy the CV joint boot. A telescoping end link may work as long as the limit of it doesn't allow contact with the CV joint.

 

And the whole system is upside down to what I'm used to using. The swaybar end link I posted above is something we have some experience with and it's designed with a relatively short range of motion and it's only placed on one side, the other remains a fixed link. Might be worth a shot.