Auto trans mushy shift lever

Having an issue with my 2nd gen.
2010 Tacoma, automatic, with 170k miles.

So I don’t drive it much anymore. Mainly used for truck duty or pulling a trailer. Maybe drive it a few time per month.

So last couple times I’ve used it I’ve noticed the shifting from park to drive has been kind of mushy/soft.

Today, it was bad. Coming out of park was hard, then super spongy/soft going to drive. Didn’t really even feel like it was going through Reverse or neutral, just mushily went to the stop point for drive. Truck drives fine, and trans seems to shift without issue.

I did notice a check engine light and traction control light were on today too. Thinking it’s bc of the shifting, but not sure.

The indicator on the dash wasn’t showing it was in drive either. When I got home, I moved the shifter around and it felt a little better, and I got the Drive indicator to show, but had to shift it down hard. 2nd gear and Low wouldn’t show, and I could barely even get it in those gears.

Any ideas? I did have the trans serviced about two years ago at dealership. Think that involves just draining the pan and topping off.

 

shift cable binding would be my guess..

 

Neutral safety switch on the side of the transmission. It's common for it to get corroded up and not want to turn. The dash indicator not showing the shifter position is also a clue that this is the case.

 

So is that something I can just clean off and be good to go?

 

You need to replace the neutral safety switch. From what I've seen on here, it's kind of a bitch job. There is a steel shaft sticking out of the transmission. The NSS switch has an aluminum collar the gets corroded onto the steel shaft. After you destroy the NSS, you are left with the collar still stuck to the shaft and you have to carefully get the collar off without hurting the steel shaft.

 

You probably got the right advice already but this reminded me of a problem on my truck.
I had a problem with the shift lever feeling sloppy and not moving through the gears (P through L). Being a Florida lifetime truck I didn’t think of corrosion.
I removed the housing and found a small white bushing on the linkage had disintegrated. I fabricated a bushing from some rubber piece I found and it has been ok since.

 

This is the answer you seek!

Mushy shift lever or hard shift lever and the indicators on the dash do not work or are indicating incorrectly are all common indicators for the Park Neutral Safety Switch. As stated it is a bitch to remove if it is corroded onto the shaft.

 

I’m screwed then. Corrosion is my trucks middle name.

 

What I don't get is how does this control the resistance in the shifter? The shifter appears to be on the driver side. Doesn't the NSS just tell the truck what gear it is in? How would it make shifting out of park feel mushy/soft?

 

What do you think moves the shaft that goes to the Park Neutral Safety Switch?

 

Yea, after looking at how it's removed, I realized that there is a moving part. I thought it was just an electronic sensor.

Looking at mine, what's up with the two holes between the nut and the shaft?

 

Holy crap

Guess I need to get under my truck and start hitting that with some fluid film

 

If it wasn't so corroded you would be able to see that it is a compression collar that as the nut is tightened it compresses due to the slots and clamps the shaft.

 

Yikes. So to remove I take out the top bolt, then loosen/remove the nut. From there does it just kind of pry off?

 

Yes, but keep in mind that corrosion is going to be a bitch. There is an aluminum collar that is probably become one with the shaft. Take your time and don't screw up the shaft.

 

Sounds like ton of fun. Maybe I'll keep spraying PB blaster on it for a week in hopes of that helping. Wish me luck boys.

 

Wish you the best!

You can do it.

 

Well I sprayed PB blaster for two days, then went to a lube spray for another day. Let it sit, and truck is shifting better than ever now. Guess I'll hold out on swapping parts.

Check Engine Light is still on though. Can't find my code reader since the move. How long do you have to drive it for it to reset?

 

I believe OBDII is 3 full cycles without any codes for it to clear. Around town too, not just short trips to the store and back

 

Is it indicating the proper gears on the dash when you shift it?

If it is not the code will not clear.