I don't know WTF I was thinking

I just freshened up my 1st gen (Gray)S/C and reinstalled the nose cone. On secure the timing cover back on I noticed a slight bit of oil around the valve covers in the front areas. I don't even know if I'd call it a leak; nothing to write home about but sometimes a tool in hand can be used by a tool. Since I had my 10mm ratchet in hand for the timing cover I decided to check and snug down the outer valve cover bolts on both sides. Something was gnawing at me as I was doing it and later I searched the forums for info on doing it. Even though I had replaced the gaskets on another 3.4l before I didn't recall that the torque on these bolts is a measly 53 inch-pound. I didn't go hog wild tightening them but gave them a good snuggle.

So now I'm regretting having done it. My question to you all is should I reset the bolts at the proper torque now or leave bad enough alone and just see what happens? I did it just yesterday afternoon and haven't ran the engine as I am waiting for the anaerobic gasket maker on the S/C assembly to fully cure. I'm concerned that if I mess with it anymore I'll only increase my chance of upsetting the apple cart and getting seepage.

Any advice is appreciated. Thanks for listening.

 

Valve covers are known to break and snap. Would you like to buy new ones and do it all over again?

Just go and back them out, use the correct torque values and rest assured it will work like it has since 2003.

 

Dude you have put my mind at ease. Will do today. Thanks so much.

 

I figure you already mashed the gaskets now and if you back-off the bolts your oil seepage will be worse. I say just leave them be based upon the fact you stated that you didn't go all gorilla on them initially.
I re-torqued mine about a year ago because mine were seeping and they've been fine, not to mention the seepage went away. Those bolts were so loose I could've unscrewed them with my fingers

 

id leave it...you probably stopped future seepage

 

That is the concern I had, mashing gaskets. That is why I was questioning backing off. Now I'm back to square one.

 

I’m with this dude above. First time I cranked one down, about 1 pound of tongue snapped it like a twig.
The washers underneath were rubber, so over torquing will def break those loose from doing there job.

 

I can also tell you, those bolts were about $40 (Subaru), so starting over is very undesirable.

 

So what your saying is backing them out and setting proper torque(starting over) is not what you would do, right?

 

Oh. MickDog1 you are agreeing with this.

 

I would not.
I’d keep an eye on it, and start shopping for reasonably priced replacements.

My block was rebuilt and I snapped the first bolt off I was trying to reuse.
Long story short, those bolts were not reusable, had to order a whole new set of 16.
Toyota may have engineered better, but it is manufacturing after all.

 

1st of all did you replace all the bolt gaskets with new ones?

If not It’s important that when you torque down the bolts that you replace the rubber round gasket so you get the correct torque if they are hardened.
If the rubber gasket is flattened it will not absorb any torque.

Here is what an old hardened gasket looks like and a new gasket.

Personally either way I would remove one bolt at a time, replace the old round bolt gasket with a new rubber gasket torque it and move to the next one in the correct torque pattern

 

I'd just do the gaskets for the valve covers and bolt washers now. It's coming soon anyway if you saw seepage and it's such an easy job. You can have apeek at valve train while open. Fel-Pros from the auto parts store are prob. better than factory and handy or dealer source if you wish.

 

I've just decided to let s(l)eeping dogs lie. If it starts to seep noticeably I'll just do the whole job. Thanks to all for input.