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Pricing my Grandpa's Tacoma

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Eric95taco, Sep 18, 2019.

  1. Sep 19, 2019 at 8:53 AM
    #21
    1997tacomav6

    1997tacomav6 V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger,Haltech, 800k

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    Denver
    Vehicle:
    97 reg cab, v6 5sp 300hp supercharged, Methonal Injection, 800,001 plus miles, Original Owner
    V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger, 56mm pulley, methanol injected Haltech ECU, AC Tvs1320 supercharger,(MUST DO) every 125,000- 150,000 needs rebuild Projector headlights HID 5 speed manual Amsoil for all drive train Smaller 56mm custom pulley, (MUST DO) 2004 DESNO fuel injectors, zero ping ping, 2004 side door mirrors Dick Cepek Rims, Michelin tires LTX, ATM Pathfinders Dynopro ATM ( that last 100,000 miles) Now running Dynopro ATM mud and snow tires KN cold air intake Cat back dual exhaust with ss exhaust tip, Raised exhaust tail pipe to 2" below body line Optima*dry cell battery,red top Alpine sirius radio, 200 watt amp, focal is165 split door pod speakers Focal door speakers Subwoffer behind seat Viper alarm, Electric Locks Dark tinted windows, bucket seats corbeau lg1 Tacoma Rubber floor mats TRD fender extenders, Bilstien shocks, King shocks JBA UCA trailer iv hitch, electric brake control, Drilled slotted brakes, High carbon steel (MUST DO) EBS green stuff 7000 series pads(MUST DO) TRD engine oil cap TRD stick shift, Marlin crawl shift kit. Rear sliding window 2002 4Runner functional hood scoop cut into Tacoma hood, 4Runner dual overhead map light Gentex Auto dim + Compass + Temp, garage,rearview mirror Snow Methonal kit stage 2 Custom 3 core aluminum radiator Linex bed liner Haltech stand alone ECU, Intake supercharger gauge. Stainless steel brake lines, Custom leather wrapped steering wheel, Haltech stand-alone ECU,
    GQ7227 likes this.
  2. Sep 19, 2019 at 8:55 AM
    #22
    Kens04Taco

    Kens04Taco Well-Known Member

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    kangs and thanngs
    Sorry about your grandpa dude :(

    If you need the money I’d post for 12k
    Remove the red paint off the dent in the back and see if you can at least pop out the big dent from the back. Even if it’s not perfect it’ll help.

    I’d think you could get 10 for it with that low
    Of miles. However what’s going to really determine the price is going to be the condition of the frame. If it’s cherry you’ll get 10k+ if it’s not...it’ll work it’s way down depending on how bad it is...

    I’d keep it man they’re great trucks
     
    GQ7227 likes this.
  3. Sep 19, 2019 at 9:08 AM
    #23
    Kens04Taco

    Kens04Taco Well-Known Member

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    kangs and thanngs
    Wheel bearings can be hard to diagnose right if they are going bad. However, in general it will start to produce a higher frequency metal sound. This is difficult to hear especially with road noise.

    Most people check the wheel bearings by jacking up the truck and putting it on stands. Grab the tire and with your hands at 12 and 6 push and pull the tire with some force. Then do the same at 3 and 9. You might want to turn the wheel so it’s straight and then lock the steering wheel. If you notice any play at all something is loose. It will feel like something is separating with your force then will return when you stop pulling/pushing. If the wheel bearing is really bad this will be easy to tell. If the wheel bearing is just starting to go...you may not notice via this test. The test works great if shits completely gone, not so great if it’s just starting to fail. When it comes to ball joints and wheel bearings if it’s the time to replace them just do it. If they fail you're fucked...
     
    GQ7227[QUOTED] likes this.
  4. Sep 19, 2019 at 9:08 AM
    #24
    Thunder Fist

    Thunder Fist Well-Known Member

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    Like, so many.
    Is there anyway you could keep it? I'd keep that for sure.
     
  5. Sep 19, 2019 at 9:16 AM
    #25
    1997tacomav6

    1997tacomav6 V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger,Haltech, 800k

    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2013
    Member:
    #113940
    Messages:
    10,391
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    John
    Denver
    Vehicle:
    97 reg cab, v6 5sp 300hp supercharged, Methonal Injection, 800,001 plus miles, Original Owner
    V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger, 56mm pulley, methanol injected Haltech ECU, AC Tvs1320 supercharger,(MUST DO) every 125,000- 150,000 needs rebuild Projector headlights HID 5 speed manual Amsoil for all drive train Smaller 56mm custom pulley, (MUST DO) 2004 DESNO fuel injectors, zero ping ping, 2004 side door mirrors Dick Cepek Rims, Michelin tires LTX, ATM Pathfinders Dynopro ATM ( that last 100,000 miles) Now running Dynopro ATM mud and snow tires KN cold air intake Cat back dual exhaust with ss exhaust tip, Raised exhaust tail pipe to 2" below body line Optima*dry cell battery,red top Alpine sirius radio, 200 watt amp, focal is165 split door pod speakers Focal door speakers Subwoffer behind seat Viper alarm, Electric Locks Dark tinted windows, bucket seats corbeau lg1 Tacoma Rubber floor mats TRD fender extenders, Bilstien shocks, King shocks JBA UCA trailer iv hitch, electric brake control, Drilled slotted brakes, High carbon steel (MUST DO) EBS green stuff 7000 series pads(MUST DO) TRD engine oil cap TRD stick shift, Marlin crawl shift kit. Rear sliding window 2002 4Runner functional hood scoop cut into Tacoma hood, 4Runner dual overhead map light Gentex Auto dim + Compass + Temp, garage,rearview mirror Snow Methonal kit stage 2 Custom 3 core aluminum radiator Linex bed liner Haltech stand alone ECU, Intake supercharger gauge. Stainless steel brake lines, Custom leather wrapped steering wheel, Haltech stand-alone ECU,
    X2, also I would say there probably ALOT of rubber items that need to be replaced because of age
    including timing belt. 20 year old trucks rubber is failing just from age not from use. Rubber does dry rot just like old tires.
    I’ve replaced ALOT of rubber items on my truck that have failed just from time.

    For a truck that’s been sitting most it’s life, all oils need to be changed,
    Axle, transmission, diff, radiator antifreeze needs changed,

    Depending the A arm bushings

    Tires are probably original so that’s 500-1000 depending.

    Your looking at 3000 minimum and up to get it to a regular driver knowing
    everything is updated and safe.
    If it’s going to sit in a garage probably don’t have to do anything
     
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2019
    GQ7227 likes this.
  6. Sep 19, 2019 at 9:42 AM
    #26
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

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    El Dorado, CA (NOT El Dorado Hills)
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    Kings, J59's Total Chaos UCAs Custom skids Sticker mod
    "put away wet" just means you wash it after your trip, but you don't bother taking the time to dry it with a lamb skin shammy and polish and wax it every time. It's a function over form thing. I don't care if my truck has some scratches in it, in fact I prefer it. When I used to race mountain bikes, I would take my brand new $6000 race bike that I just built and kick it over. Get that first scratch out of the way and you won't be worried about trying not to scratch it anymore, which makes you faster, lol.

    My dad's neighbor has (had? I dunno, he's pretty old now) a BMW GS1200 that he'd go out for a bi-weekly ride. He'd be gone for a 1/2 hour to an hour, maybe, all street. Then he'd literally spend the next 2 hours in his driveway cleaning the thing. Pretty sure he'd use half a roll of paper towels judging by the pile of them in the driveway. Sure, he is retired and has lots of time to spare, but that amount of work just seemed like an immense waste of time to me. I would have been on the bike for those extra 2 hours.
     
    Tacos4ever15 and GQ7227[QUOTED] like this.
  7. Sep 19, 2019 at 9:46 AM
    #27
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

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    Kings, J59's Total Chaos UCAs Custom skids Sticker mod

    Yeah, this is something a lot of people forget about. They drool all over a super low mileage truck, but don't realize all the rubber parts likely need to be replaced anyway.

    When selling it, I don't think I'd go as far as replacing all that stuff, I doubt you'll get your money back for it.
     
    1997tacomav6[QUOTED] likes this.
  8. Sep 19, 2019 at 9:49 AM
    #28
    1997tacomav6

    1997tacomav6 V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger,Haltech, 800k

    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2013
    Member:
    #113940
    Messages:
    10,391
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    John
    Denver
    Vehicle:
    97 reg cab, v6 5sp 300hp supercharged, Methonal Injection, 800,001 plus miles, Original Owner
    V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger, 56mm pulley, methanol injected Haltech ECU, AC Tvs1320 supercharger,(MUST DO) every 125,000- 150,000 needs rebuild Projector headlights HID 5 speed manual Amsoil for all drive train Smaller 56mm custom pulley, (MUST DO) 2004 DESNO fuel injectors, zero ping ping, 2004 side door mirrors Dick Cepek Rims, Michelin tires LTX, ATM Pathfinders Dynopro ATM ( that last 100,000 miles) Now running Dynopro ATM mud and snow tires KN cold air intake Cat back dual exhaust with ss exhaust tip, Raised exhaust tail pipe to 2" below body line Optima*dry cell battery,red top Alpine sirius radio, 200 watt amp, focal is165 split door pod speakers Focal door speakers Subwoffer behind seat Viper alarm, Electric Locks Dark tinted windows, bucket seats corbeau lg1 Tacoma Rubber floor mats TRD fender extenders, Bilstien shocks, King shocks JBA UCA trailer iv hitch, electric brake control, Drilled slotted brakes, High carbon steel (MUST DO) EBS green stuff 7000 series pads(MUST DO) TRD engine oil cap TRD stick shift, Marlin crawl shift kit. Rear sliding window 2002 4Runner functional hood scoop cut into Tacoma hood, 4Runner dual overhead map light Gentex Auto dim + Compass + Temp, garage,rearview mirror Snow Methonal kit stage 2 Custom 3 core aluminum radiator Linex bed liner Haltech stand alone ECU, Intake supercharger gauge. Stainless steel brake lines, Custom leather wrapped steering wheel, Haltech stand-alone ECU,
    Well you know it needs new tires after 20 years=500-1000
     
  9. Sep 19, 2019 at 9:54 AM
    #29
    GQ7227

    GQ7227 mw survivor

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    309km east of Hazard ...the good life
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    '97 black SR5 0g ~ MT @ 176k ...
    black woolWax, green IFC, borlaCB, custom Line-X PC drums, skid, nuts, hooks, 1/4 silver frame...
    the one rubber item I am not looking forward to replacing is the run channel down inside the door. I ripped one of those out at the salvage yard to take a look and wow that is involving! have to remove all the door paneling and possible the window itself to get that rubber strip all the way down inside of there
     
  10. Sep 19, 2019 at 10:05 AM
    #30
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

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    Kings, J59's Total Chaos UCAs Custom skids Sticker mod
    I don't even know what that is.

    Why though, is it damaged?

    Wait, nvm. rope hooks.

    :D
     
    GQ7227[QUOTED] likes this.
  11. Sep 19, 2019 at 10:08 AM
    #31
    GQ7227

    GQ7227 mw survivor

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    309km east of Hazard ...the good life
    Vehicle:
    '97 black SR5 0g ~ MT @ 176k ...
    black woolWax, green IFC, borlaCB, custom Line-X PC drums, skid, nuts, hooks, 1/4 silver frame...
    its the rubber piece your window rolls up and down in the channel
    its not damaged but can probably get weather worn and cracked like other rubber trimmings all around the doors
     
  12. Sep 19, 2019 at 10:11 AM
    #32
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

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    '04 TRD Tacoma 4x4 DC
    Kings, J59's Total Chaos UCAs Custom skids Sticker mod
    Oh ok, THAT piece.

    Seems like a lot of work for "probably" though. I'd just get in there with a Q-tip and some cleaner and call it a day.

    Maybe use this stuff.
    https://www.amazon.com/303-Rubber-Protectant-Conditioner-Weather/dp/B00T44D1R2
     
  13. Sep 19, 2019 at 10:21 AM
    #33
    GQ7227

    GQ7227 mw survivor

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    309km east of Hazard ...the good life
    Vehicle:
    '97 black SR5 0g ~ MT @ 176k ...
    black woolWax, green IFC, borlaCB, custom Line-X PC drums, skid, nuts, hooks, 1/4 silver frame...
    mine is ok currently, just not sure about the wear and tear on the power windows with the dirt buildup,
    yes it looked like a ton of work to replace that, should my window ever get broken (knock on the wood right) would be the best time to probably change it

    the Q-tip is a great idea!
     

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