HP Tuners for 2005-2015

like torspd said, they sure do. you can change actual throttle pedal mapping however you wish. Pedal commander only simulates you pushing on the throttle physically more but still uses the same map within the ecu.

 

Been a while since I loaded the JustDSM V1 tune - thought I'd get some mileage on it before reporting back. I'm happy with it - shifting seems better, not that annoying lag and having to press the peddle down further to get it to down shift. Mileage has improved slightly... I'm guessing about 1 MPG overall on average after having put 5K miles on it. Truck does run smoother - that is very noticeable. I'm glad to hear folks are getting more tuning now than versus the version 1 tune. I may just have to do an upgrade to the V1 with some of this new stuff. Question for those in the know (tuning experts)... should I bother considering bothering you guys for new tunes, or just stick with what I got with the V1? Thoughts? (2013 4.0 Auto tranny, 4.56 gears, 265's)

 

Thanks for sharing your feedback KJP! I appreciate the honest and through test (5K miles) you've put it through.

Your purchase of the V1 gets you free updates at any time. I'm more than happy to work with you on further refinements.

 

Update!

 

Auto Trans tuning has come a long way since inception (currently on my 11th official revision) Which has been working great for many!

 

can you turn off aics in the settings ?

 

Turn off, as in disable (Remove solenoid and CEL)? Or turn off as in never activate the solenoid?

In either case, yes.

 

You definietly can, but it would be counterproductive... JustDSM , myself and many others have found that having it on even in low rpm (not just the stock 2200-4100 medium range) with a high tps set point lower than stock (which means the ACIS comes on sooner and is active over more of the rev range) has shown definite driveability gains. MAF numbers show this for sure.

 

Wow - good news for me lol. I have to be travelling for a few weeks but I'll be in touch. Thanks!

 

What does a "bricked" pcm mean? It can't be modified or it's off another year vehicle?

 

When the write process fails during a reflash, the ECU is often times left in a state that renders it inoperable. It will not communicate via CAN, or sync properly, leading to a no-start condition.

It can be repaired in some cases, but it involves advanced tools/soldering directly to the board.

HPT is developing recovery methods as mentioned previously to help recover and mitigate the likelihood of it happening to begin with.

 

Oh, OK. Hopefully that won't be an issue for me.

 

Ensure your battery is in a good state of health and connect a battery charger if available.

Ensure all sources of current draw are turned off. Things like dome lights, stereo, A/C, fan, intercooler pump, headlights, etc..

Laptop should be plugged in or have a known good battery and turn off any auto updates. Run the latest VCM Suite software.

That’ll pretty much cover most sources of issues.

 

Oh. OK. That would be a risk if I were using the HP Tuner on my truck myself. Not sending you my actual ECM.
Now I get it.

 

Only thing to add which gave me scares on my first flash is to check the pins on obd2 port itself. I know myself, @nd4spdbh and a few others noticed their pins were very loose. Mine to the point that it wouldn’t hold good enough connection to start the flash. But only should be an issue if you have ran with something plugged into the port for an extended period of time or many times before.

 

I still do not know what exactly caused my failed flash awhile ago.... HPTuners digged through my logs showed the ecu simply just stopped... rendering the flash useless. Maybe a bad USB cable, maybe something else... who knows.

Like I have stated before, if you are going to dig down this rabbit hole, do yourself a favor, get the part number of your ECU, go on ebay, and get a same-part-number ecu before you flash (or at least get take a look to make sure your same-part-number ecu is easily obtainable). Get the information you need to replace the ECU and properly pair it with the immobilizer before hand. The 80-100 bucks for the spare ecu will save you SOOOOOO much headache. At worse it will be 15 min to replace the ecu physically, and 30 min and 1 second to sync the immobilizer. I am currently still rocking my ebay bought backup ECU with a JustDSM engine tune + my v11 trans tune + a rewritten VIN (via tech stream)..... But you know sure as shit my Original bricked ecu that was brought back to life via @OVTune is in my glovebox ready to be swapped wherever / whenever if shit goes south (not likely that it will during running - but rather be safe than sorry).

 

I purchased this OBD2 scanner and haven’t used it yet. Can I obtain my ECU’s part # by connecting this to my OBD2 port or do I have to remove the ECU to read the #?

 

You can check via VIN # at dealer/oem parts store. But most accurately by looking at ECU itself. Sits on passenger side behind dash.

 

Remove the passenger kick panel. Stick your phone up between the ECU and the side of the truck and take a pic and go from there.

You are looking for the Part Number under the "TOYOTA" of the white sticker on the left in the picture below. (pic sourced from the net pic for reference)

 

Ok. I’ll check it out Tuesday morning when I am hone. I hope to be able to see the number without actually having to remove the ECU.