PreRun->4x fix build

prerunner problems and solutions

 

@Dex__43 here is another thread for reference for your future conversion
Very knowledgeable local guy too

 

The knowledge part is questionable at best

 

Meh, I stand behind my original statement. However, I am using myself as the reference point. So it is easy got me to make that statement

 

you having the sticks come up in the cubby to the side of the shifter? How did you bend them? Taking notes for when I do my swap.

Also, what did you do with the front diff? Keep add?

 

It was a prerunner, so when I planned the swap I used a non add front diff

and I plan to have the sticks come up thru the pen slot in the console
I bought a compact bender from harborfreight which is available for use by the tacoma public
that being said it was $77 so not a huge investment

 

yea I’m a prerunner as well. Would like to avoid the ADD. Seen a few options, was curious which route you chose. Is it a full AWD diff from a awd FJ/4Runner?

 

no still have 2wd/4wd T-case
my jackshaft came from GX470

 

Also my biggest words of advice to anyone doing a 4x4 swap

PUT THE TRANS AND T-CASE IN BEFORE THE FRONT DIFF

its a HUGE pain in the ass working around the front diff to remove the torque converter bolts (accessed thru the hole for the started after it's removed)

 

Oh no not the Xfer case, That’s what determines 2/4wd. I realize that. I was wondering which front diff you used to avoid the ADD, since The tacoma and some other front diffs have the ADD assembly. I was curious how you deleted the ADD. Using the GX jack shaft explains. Thanks man.

I was curious cause I’ve seen some guys try to use the full Front diff from AWD FJ/Runners because they don’t have an ADD or ive seen guys swap the jack shaft and tube (like you did). I’ve even seen come guys weld the ADD collar to the splines and a cheap version of hose clamping the collar in ‘engaged’ position.

 

The transfer case still does determind 2wd or 4wd, but my front end is always engaged, it just doesn't always have power


example: if i'm stuck in mud I still have to shift into 4wd to get my front tires to spin, but I don't have to wait for the add to engage

so even tho the driveshaft will always be spinning, it can spin at a different speed than the rear tires so if i had money to waste on tires I could still do a burnout

 

Yea I know lol. I was just asking how you deleted the ADD. That’s all man. Thanks.

 

I've had a fair amount of people think otherwise, so just wanted to clarify

 

finally closed up, still might need some tweaking


Also picked up a BAMF mid skid and transfer case skid and finally pulled my sliders out of the barn to start getting them ready to go on the truck
Just need to get a IFS skid ordered

 

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Where did you order the driveshaft from? Do you have the specs (length, flanges, etc)? I am gathering parts for my conversion and am trying to minimize down time by buying as much as I can up front.

 

I bought an oem driveshaft from a wrecking yard, if you do that you have to move the crossmember that holds the carrier bearing back (the holes are there)
I just ground/drilled the rivets from the cross member to frame and moved back to the other holes that were already in the frame and then bolted it in place
(pictures coming soon)

 

@MC1983
The blue circle is where the old rivets were
The red circle is where the bolts go
The middle two fours are used in both positions
I did drill the holes out a tiny bit for a larger bolt but with a smaller bolt no drilling is necessary

 

Thanks, that is good to know. Now I need to find a stock 4wd DCLB driveshaft.

 

I acquired parts over a year or so and did the front diff one weekend and the trans and t-case over 2 weekends, could have done it quicker if I had all of the parts and was able to weld rather then relying on other people


I moved it over here to not crap up the sale thread