TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Stick shift shenanigans
Spec stage 3+ and clutch masters hydro bearing (with billet oil cap). Urd lightweight steel flywheel and equal length headers (the older version) coming tomorrow!

 

Excuse the noob question, but how do I check it?

 

I’m thinking spec is the way I’m going when the time comes. Stage ll though. Did you get it through URD when you got the flywheel? Last pic, is that an oil cap??

 

Got the clutch from summit racing. From all the research I did it seems like we could be reaching the upper limits of the stage 2+ torque limits if cams/stroker kits, etc happen in the future. Decided to give myself headroom with the stage 3+ (and listen to uncle @Torspd's recommendation).

Last pic is indeed an oil cap.

 

That’s awesome. Is that custom or did you just buy it that way? So the clutch comes with an upgraded throw out bearing and you just got a light weight flywheel?

 

There was a group buy recently for the hydro bearing which should cure the throw out bearing issues with our transmissions. I believe they are running a second one and/or clutchmasters may become a Tacomaworld vendor. The oil cap was a freebe with the group buy although it sounds like they'll start selling them separate. They did custom designs and a number of color options

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/manual-2nd-gen-fix.624299/

 

No news of a second GB yet... at least not that I've heard of. I want in though.

 

That’s cool.....where the hell was I for this group buy!! Lol what did that run ya if you don’t mind me asking?

 

So we’d get this tb upgrade through the group buy, get a clutch of choice, and a flywheel of choice? Is there anything else needed for a new setup??

Also, when it comes to the flywheel.....what do guys recommend? Light weight, just resurface the stock....

 

Group buy was $100 off of the hydro bearing and another $100 off if you bought one of their clutches which I did not buy. Paid $375 for my hydro bearing with shipping to Canada. The hydro bearing looks very well made. I think the clutches do look good but wanted to go with the spec.

For flywheels lighter revs quicker and drops revs quicker but can also make it easier to stall apparently. The lighter it is the trickier it gets from what I've read. If you off road lots stock weight or even a heavier freewheel may serve you better.

 

the boost port connected to the bypass valve behind the s/c is a tight fit. the other end of it where it attaches to the s/c is often very loose. back by the water ports. a little hose clamp fixes it. if it fell off you would not have boost.

 

Look at post #1 and scroll down to bypass valve adjustment. You will see pictures of the bypass valve and a hose that connects to it. You want to check both ends of that hose to make sure they are connected and secure.

A quick way to tell if its actuating correctly is to look at the lever on it while someone else starts the truck. It should move about 90 degrees. Have person shut off truck, it should move about 90 degrees the other way. The bypass valve is spring loaded closed and vacuum opened which is why you should see it move when someone starts/stops the engine.

 

It didn't go down like a normal group buy. At least not to start off with.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/manual-2nd-gen-fix.624299/

 

Anyone here headed to SEMA this year?

 

Boost port and bypass valve both check out. Where do I go next?

 

Made it the past two years, but work schedule (changing jobs) prevents making it this year.

 

No credentials. I'd love to go though, never been.

 

Are you sure the sc belt is tight?

Hows the air filter?

The sc is literally a positive displacement air pump. If bypass is closed and belt has tension, the only things preventing it from pumping would be clogged inlet (air filter) or a disintegrated coupler.

You saw the sc pulley physically spinning?

Release sc belt tension and spin sc by hand. Does it freewheel or can you feel/hear the rotor pack moving?

Boost port cap still on? (Its behind intercooler lines on sc plenum cover)

Plenum cover snugged down?

 

The pulley is definitely spinning, I can see it and hear it whine like normal. Just checked the air filter, squeaky clean.

I’ll go check the last two you mentioned.

Thanks guys for your help

 

@Roostfactor has made good points. kinda early for coupler failure but that would do it. any odd noises right before boost stopped?