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Wheel studs are too short! What to do....

Discussion in 'Wheels & Tires' started by TexasTacoma37, Oct 24, 2010.

  1. Oct 18, 2019 at 6:48 PM
    #141
    ffirg

    ffirg Well-Known Member

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    mike
    Anchorage, Alaska
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    $$$
    ABC79CC0-2629-44DE-A11F-ACD6AA575CC5.jpg Ok, so I’m in the same boat as the last post...except I don’t have wheel spacers.

    bought a set of old steel wheels from a coworker. They were originally from a 3rd gen 4runner, not sure exactly which year. I installed them last night and the lug nuts only thread on half way. Not sure how extended thread nuts would do anything because the hole on the rim is just big enough for the stud. Any ideas? Can I even replace the studs with longer ones on a 2002?
     
  2. Oct 25, 2019 at 5:30 PM
    #142
    PhenixFord

    PhenixFord Well-Known Member

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    Randy
    Arkansas
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    Wow, just found this thread.

    It's my understanding that the Pancake style spacers (without built-in studs) are not recommended for most applications. And certainly not a truck that will be used like a truck.

    Just Say NO to pancake style spacers. And if the OE wheel studs are to short for your new application, you got the wrong application. Just my $0.02
     
  3. Jan 1, 2022 at 11:06 PM
    #143
    Taco No Baka

    Taco No Baka Interco Tire Snob

    Joined:
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    Lee
    Tampa, FL
    Vehicle:
    1998 SR5 Xtra Cab 4WD V6 Spartan Package
    OME 3" lift with Dakar rear leaves and 883 front coils. 36x12.50 Super Swamper TSL/SXs on Pro Comp Series 97 15x8 Steelies, Bud Built Front Skid, 4xI rock sliders, 4.88s and an Eaton True Trac LSD up front, 4.88s and a Detroit Locker in the rear, LED cab clearance lights, Sway Bar Delete, Rear Diff Breather Mod, Autometer Monster Tach, Cobra 25LTD Classic, Roof-mounted 3' Firestik Firefly, Garmin GPS, HiLift Jack, Flush-mount LED pod lights in rear bumper, 28" light bar in the front bumper, rear shock relocation (Ruff Stuff brackets), u-bolt flip with Ruff Stuff Anti-wrap perches, CBI rear frame reinforcements, 10" travel Bilstein 5125 rear shocks, heavy duty front crossmember made by Allenfab, Rear shock mounts/crossmember (for upper mounts), spring perches, frame plates, and front crossmember welded in by Allenfab, CBI Ditch Light Brackets, Ditch Light Pods. AllenFab Custom Hybrid front bumper and recovery points. Drivetrain lifted 2" in conjunction with a 2" BL. Modified Trail Gear transmission crossmember/skid. Warn Xeon 10K winch. Large left side body mod.
    To get the wheel flange away from the brake backing plate, you have to basically do the same process you would have to do to replace the wheel bearing, in this case a unit bearing, if I'm not mistaken...and I could be since it's a five lug. I believe for 2nd Gens forward, it requires a spanner and a hydraulic press. At any rate, you would be better off either cutting the studs down until you can get them in, or get the shorter Toyota Matrix studs referenced earlier in this thread. Or you could drill a hole in the backing plate to put the studs through and then put a grommet in the hole to seal everything back up.

    That's all I got.
     
  4. Jan 2, 2022 at 4:17 AM
    #144
    Taco No Baka

    Taco No Baka Interco Tire Snob

    Joined:
    May 9, 2013
    Member:
    #103866
    Messages:
    8,434
    First Name:
    Lee
    Tampa, FL
    Vehicle:
    1998 SR5 Xtra Cab 4WD V6 Spartan Package
    OME 3" lift with Dakar rear leaves and 883 front coils. 36x12.50 Super Swamper TSL/SXs on Pro Comp Series 97 15x8 Steelies, Bud Built Front Skid, 4xI rock sliders, 4.88s and an Eaton True Trac LSD up front, 4.88s and a Detroit Locker in the rear, LED cab clearance lights, Sway Bar Delete, Rear Diff Breather Mod, Autometer Monster Tach, Cobra 25LTD Classic, Roof-mounted 3' Firestik Firefly, Garmin GPS, HiLift Jack, Flush-mount LED pod lights in rear bumper, 28" light bar in the front bumper, rear shock relocation (Ruff Stuff brackets), u-bolt flip with Ruff Stuff Anti-wrap perches, CBI rear frame reinforcements, 10" travel Bilstein 5125 rear shocks, heavy duty front crossmember made by Allenfab, Rear shock mounts/crossmember (for upper mounts), spring perches, frame plates, and front crossmember welded in by Allenfab, CBI Ditch Light Brackets, Ditch Light Pods. AllenFab Custom Hybrid front bumper and recovery points. Drivetrain lifted 2" in conjunction with a 2" BL. Modified Trail Gear transmission crossmember/skid. Warn Xeon 10K winch. Large left side body mod.
    Then the only other thing I could suggest before you go spend a pile of $$$ at the machine shop having the axles pressed out of the wheel bearing, the studs pressed in and the axles pressed back in and the lock nut retorqued, is try taking your brake wheel cylinder out and see if there's a hole big enough to slip the stud through and then pray the angle isn't too much to get the stud to drop in.
     

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