OEM Heated Mirrors DIY mod

I finished the mod yesterday. Using the existing mirrors glass and backplate was more of a pain than I anticipated. I used a heated up knife to cut the necessary holes in the backplate.

I’m not sure if this was mentioned yet but when running the wires in the door it’s easier to remove the large speaker as opposed to the pulling the moisture barrier back. On the first door I did both, but on the second only needed to remove the speaker.

I had bad luck on the passenger mirror. One of the 25-torx bolts wouldn’t come out so I stripped the head and ended up drilling the head out. I also broke two retainer clips on the passenger mirror panel. I decided to lightly RTV it in place instead of finding replacement clips.

Anyone know the p/n for those torn-25 bolts on the bottom side of the mirror housing?
Edit: I looked online and called my local dealer. They only sell the mirror housing and not these bolts. Local hardware store had something that worked. 10-32x3/4 inch stainless steel bolt and two 1/16 inch nylon spacers. Correct size is 10-32x5/8 inch.

I didn’t take any photos for this portion of the install, but if I remember I’ll post the circuit which I used.

Thanks again to everyone who posted ideas and instructions of how to do this mod. It’s going to be 70 degrees this week so I might not get a chance to test it out for a while.

Edit: It was rather chilly when I left the house this morning. Mirrors fogged up during my commute so I got to test them out. They worked like champs.

 

Using a Toyota OEM/like switch I got on eBay for $20, here is what I ended up with for a momentary on switch to trigger the timer for the heated mirror circuit:





As you can see, the micro switch replaced the OEM on/off switch that closes the mirrors. I simply de-soldered the terminals on the OEM mirror close button at the rear, removed it, drilled out the square hole with a 1/4" drill bit and made it round. A little sanding with a round metal file made the micro push-button switch slide right in.

The two yellow switches are spares to show what they look like outside of the switch box. I got the micro switches on Amazon. $8 for 10. Normally open, push for momentary close (on). This triggers the timing circuit on.

 

saw this in the products discussed and mentioend @DanvilleTrain
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071YY2QQM

How does this compare to the OEM version? Price wise beats it by $100 so that a big plus. Was going to order an OEM one and saw this.

 

When I plugged my $20 eBay switch into the unaltered OEM harness plug the mirrors worked perfectly. Which was all I really wanted. I needed to solve the momentary switch issue so this was my simple solution.

to answer your question, all of these switches *appear* to be identical to the OEM switch. Which is why I took a chance on the eBay one.

 

nice, yah I will prob just cut the pin noted before but if I can get this for $16 that beats $80-$120 switch thats OEM. I guess the open question is if it does work what is the delay on it? I saw comments before but it does not have the timing this one had in OEM form.

 

I am not sure but I think you misunderstood. These OEM mirror control switches do not have any timing function. Their original value to the heated mirror thread was to provide a space for a momentary switch inside the mirror control dash cut out. The process cannibalizes the mirror fold switch. Which, as delivered, acts as a hard on/off switch. The first mod is to remove the metal bar inside this push button to convert it to momentary on only. THEN you have to figure out a way to convert the four wire terminals on the output to act as a switch, which is mod #2. (See below for detailed explanation of MOD #2***) I did figure out how to do mod#2, but I destroyed the push button circuit board in the process. So I decided to get rid of it entirely and use the micro push button switch. I have a 2015 DCSB OR. I have zero dash spaces open for a switch. So I am using this mod to avoid having to cut a hole in the dash on the left side of the steering wheel.


The timing circuit you need is a hella relay with adjustable time circuit.


Here is the link to the hella reflet timer on Amazon:


HELLA 996152151 12 Volt 5 Pin 0-900s Delay On Time Control Unit

$57 HELLA 996152151 12 Volt 5 Pin 0-900s Delay On Time Control Unit

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003C508Y8/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_eGIRDbP00FQKJ



********* MOD #2 DETAIL ****

After you have converted the hard on/off mirror fold switch into a momentary switch (by removing the metal locking bar in this switch) you need to modify the switch terminals at the rear of the mirror fold switch to act at a momentary "on" switch to trigger the Hella timing relay to turn on. To convert the rear terminals, you need to cut or de-solder the four connections at the rear of the mirror fold switch. I cut the lower pins under the switch that feed back into the switch housing and feed the connector pin bracket below. What you want are the four pins on the upper part to be free and not connected in any way to the rest of the switch. When viewing the switch from the rear, there are four copper pins, left to right they are 1,2,3, 4. When you press the now momentary switch to the "on position" pins 1 and 4 connect, and this is where you need to connect your wires that go to the Hella Timer Switched 12V source. One wire goes to #4, the other wire goes to #1. Wire #4 comes from your trucks 12V switched power source and connects to pin #4. Wire #1 comes from Pin #1 and goes to the 12V switched lead on the Hella Timer, which is connection #15. After you have made the connections the mirror fold switch now works as a momentary on (or trigger) activating the Hella Timer Relay to run for whatever time value you have selected via the side pin switches and round timer selector. I have mine set for 8 minutes, and have checked its function with a multi-meter.

 

Follow-up on modding the $15 eBay folding mirror switch. (Get the one with the connector included.) This is to give you a +12V momentary push button to trigger your circuits timer relay. This is on a '13 TRD Taco

Pull the folding mirror push button off the front of the switch, it's just a friction fit, but you may have to pull the outer bezel away from the switch body to get a hold of it.


Pop the rear white cover off and you will see the four soldered connectors on the back of the folding portion of the switch. Unsolder all those to free the switch, then you can gently pry the housing away from the tabs on the switch and pull it out of the main switch body. On the side of the switch you will see the silver latching link under a little spring, remove it and then place the switch back in its recess. Push the button back on from the front.


.


The "folding" portion of the switch already is connected to +12V from the existing mirror wiring. if you only solder back the two center pins, you will see momentary +12VDC at pin 9 when you push the button, which you can use to trigger the delay relay. Leave the outer pins disconnected.



Snap the white back cover back on and your switch is good to go. Now we need to pop out the old mirror switch and add another wire to the truck's connector. On the underside of the connector that came with the switch you will see a little rectangular cover/wire retainer that you can pop out with a little screwdriver. There is also a tiny little locking finger inside the front of the connector that you will need to lift in order to slide a wire out the back of the connector that came with the switch.




Take the new wire and slide it into the trucks connector from the rear, replace the wire retainer cover, pop the connector in the switch and the switch in the dash and you should be ready to wire the power part of the circuit!

 

Anybody know if this will turn on with remote start? Just started thinking about this mod, but am weary on whether I have to physically hit a button to turn it on... I'd like to make it turn on with remote start in the winter months..

 

What is the part number for this switch? A little confused - there have been a few different part numbers posted.

EDIT:
84872-52040 - Does not work (plug wiring is not the same - i tried it)

84870-0C040 - is the correct switch

 

Has anyone done this?

https://shop.muthco.com/heated-mirrors-on-demand

with these

https://spottermirror.com/p/toyota/tacoma/2005-2015-tacoma-spotter-mirror/

Other than the ugly switch it looks like it would work?

I have a 2015 trd sport... I imagine running the wires is going to be a bitch since i have sound deadening in the doors.

 

The spotter mirrors are amazing - I have been driving with them for about a month and its by far the best mod I have done yet. You can easily see 2-3 lanes on the side. The blind spot is completely eliminated. Easier to see parking lines too

I went with the OEM switch 84870-0C040 for a factory look. Wiring is about the same and doesn't require any splicing/molesting the factory wires, but you will have to add a pin into the mirror switch connector.

 

did you use the true oem switch you listed or ebay special? that one doesnt even ship to canada typical, all the oem stuff costs a ton of money to get here.

 

First - I tried the EBAY special "84872-52040" - However it does not work (wiring is not the same - mirror adjustment doesn't operate)

The correct OEM switch for the heated mirror mod is "84870-0C040". I found an OEM switch on ebay for $80.

For this style switch & using the TLD timer relay- you have to Disassemble the switch in order to remove the "latching" mechanism to make it a dead-man type switch, rather than a latching on-off type. It's moderately difficult to pry the tabs apart without destroying the switch. It's much easier if you have a second set of hands, and very tiny flathead screwdrivers

There are other methods of wiring that don't involve disassembling the switch - but I wanted the timer feature.

 

Just ordered the driver’s side spotter mirror(passenger side out of stock). The updated wolstentech relays are now only chosen by whether you switch the positive side of the accessory or the negative side. With either model you can trigger with a positive or ground signal. All of the modes, trigger polarity, and timer settings are set via adjustments on the back.

 

This pisses me off.

 

Yup, Toyota cheaped out on a few things. But now you have an excuse to mod your mirrors. I’ve only needed the heated mirrors a handful of times, but each time I do it makes the time spent doing the mod well worth it.

 

I could turn ‘em on in October & shut ‘em down come April. If I’m lucky.

 

The new model wolsten tech relay triggers with either polarity so you can trigger positive and not have to reverse an led or add a diode to your switch. You’d need to get the P model and install it on the positive side but it definitely simplifies the switch mods. If you want the “on” led to illuminate only when actually heating you just cut the trace just before it’s resistor and connect the output+ of the relay to the middle pin of the switch as well as to the mirror. If you use the middle pin for the connection just jumper from that pins solder point to R2(just beyond where you cut the trace)

 

I’ve looked all over for how to mod the arb switch to momentary and haven’t found any direct information other than pics of the momentary show no small wire inside at the top that the matching versions have. It seems hard to remove and if I just snip it then the pieces could lodge inside. Anyone have a clue to share?

edit- solved- just pry out that little wire.

 

Wolsten tech site says to expect 1-2weeks before shipping but it was only one day, woot! Arb switches are much better quality than most Generic ones and now use what are called “straw hat” leds that have a 60 degree viewing angle for more even illumination. But they still use just a 1k resistor only now it’s smd but fortunately I scavenged a couple 10k from another board and swapped the top led for red(white print, red symbol). Momentary, dimmed to match, and upper led now will light only when heating. Using center pin of switch connector for return wire from load output of relay.