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Manual raditor

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Floridaze, Oct 21, 2019.

  1. Oct 21, 2019 at 6:14 PM
    #1
    Floridaze

    Floridaze [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I’m in the process of replacing the 340f transmission with a 150f and the radiator is already on its way out. I need some opinions on whether to swap to a hard to find manual radiator or go back with a short auto radiator (probably a denso) and just block off the trans cooler inlet and outlets. Thanks in advance!
     
  2. Oct 21, 2019 at 6:26 PM
    #2
    Kiloyard

    Kiloyard Road Warrior

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    I'm not aware of any disadvantage in using a regular/auto radiator. Go with what's cheap and easy.
     
  3. Oct 21, 2019 at 6:29 PM
    #3
    Floridaze

    Floridaze [OP] Well-Known Member

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    That’s what I was leaning towards but was hoping someone had a source for a good manual radiator. My search has come up either empty or expensive
     
  4. Oct 22, 2019 at 7:39 AM
    #4
    Glamisman

    Glamisman Well-Known Member

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    I had the same dilema and my guy at O' Reilly told me that his suppliers only make radiators for automatics as making 2 differernt radiators costs too much for a low volumn product as a manual trans only radiator. Now, this is O'reillys, NAPA, Auto Zone etc might have different suppliers.
     
    Wyoming09 likes this.
  5. Oct 22, 2019 at 8:03 AM
    #5
    1997tacomav6

    1997tacomav6 V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger,Haltech, 800k

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    V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger, 56mm pulley, methanol injected Haltech ECU, AC Tvs1320 supercharger,(MUST DO) every 125,000- 150,000 needs rebuild Projector headlights HID 5 speed manual Amsoil for all drive train Smaller 56mm custom pulley, (MUST DO) 2004 DESNO fuel injectors, zero ping ping, 2004 side door mirrors Dick Cepek Rims, Michelin tires LTX, ATM Pathfinders Dynopro ATM ( that last 100,000 miles) Now running Dynopro ATM mud and snow tires KN cold air intake Cat back dual exhaust with ss exhaust tip, Raised exhaust tail pipe to 2" below body line Optima*dry cell battery,red top Alpine sirius radio, 200 watt amp, focal is165 split door pod speakers Focal door speakers Subwoffer behind seat Viper alarm, Electric Locks Dark tinted windows, bucket seats corbeau lg1 Tacoma Rubber floor mats TRD fender extenders, Bilstien shocks, King shocks JBA UCA trailer iv hitch, electric brake control, Drilled slotted brakes, High carbon steel (MUST DO) EBS green stuff 7000 series pads(MUST DO) TRD engine oil cap TRD stick shift, Marlin crawl shift kit. Rear sliding window 2002 4Runner functional hood scoop cut into Tacoma hood, 4Runner dual overhead map light Gentex Auto dim + Compass + Temp, garage,rearview mirror Snow Methonal kit stage 2 Custom 3 core aluminum radiator Linex bed liner Haltech stand alone ECU, Intake supercharger gauge. Stainless steel brake lines, Custom leather wrapped steering wheel, Haltech stand-alone ECU,
    Go with the auto radiator because it’s taller 2” and will give you better cooling power when it’s 100 degrees outside.
    Because of the aluminum heads and the head gasket blowing ( from too much heat) you want all the cooling power available
     
  6. Oct 22, 2019 at 12:32 PM
    #6
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

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  7. Oct 23, 2019 at 1:34 AM
    #7
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    I just use a Copper Brass Radiator made for the 3.0 early 90`s

    Modified the Tacoma brackets and the lower hose .

    I used this on my 92 4Runner 3.4 and then put one in the Tacoma.

    I had them for quite a few years now no cooling issues then I am not off roading in 120 degree heat

    Pretty sure most of the lower end radiators come with the trans cooler just easier to make one that works in both applications
     
    Running Board Man likes this.

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