E-Locker Actuator Mod

So I had to replace my E-locker actuator ($900 from Toyota, ouch) and while I was putting the new part in I noticed I really hated the breather design. Having previously done the differential breather mod I was struck by an idea. I went down to my local auto parts store and found these little heater hose T-union thingies.

I stuck one end in the breather of the new actuator. I then took a little of the 1/4" fuel line I had leftover from the diff breather mod and ran it to the top of my diff and then took the hose I had run for the original breather mod and plugged it into the final empty space on the T-union. So now my diff and my locker actuator breathers are both spliced into the same breather tube that runs up behind my tail light.
Hopefully that made sense and the pictures show up. Sorry if this has been done before, it just sort of came to me and I was pretty excited about it so I felt the need to share.

 

Now moisture from your diff can potentially enter the locker actuator? I'd keep it separate.

 

What moisture? I don't see how the potential for moisture is worse.

 

Thanks for the input. I'm pretty sure the whole point of the breather relocation mod is to keep moisture out of the diff. So in theory there shouldn't be any moisture in there to begin with. That's just my understanding though. I'm fully ready to admit I could be wrong. Thoughts anyone?

 

You are correct...mostly. the breather relocation is to keep liquid water out of the diffy when you are crossing deep water. Secondly the breather is to equalize the air pressure in the diffy. When diffy lube heats up, the air is pushed out, the breather allows the air to leave the diffy and not blow your axle seals. The opposite occurs when the oil cools and contracts. You "could" pull in high humidity air when the oil cools, but its not going to be much.

 

@koditten thanks for the input. Any idea why Toyota would deem it necessary then to add a breather to the actuator? Its not a fluid filled thing like the diff is so shouldn't need to breathe the same way yes? Or is the idea to allow condensation that could form in the actuator casing a path to evaporate and prevent corrosion? (not that it worked real well on the last one...)

 

I can't offer much. all I know is mine looked pretty bad when I took it apart. I noticed that corrosion was attacking it. Sorry.

 

Yes, I was mainly talking about condensation from the heating and cooling of the diff, which is the source of the heat. Also relocating the diff breather to a higher location is so that when your hot axle enters water and cools, air enters the breather instead of water making its way past the axle seals. It doesn't fully eliminate this, but it minimizes this contamination of the gear oil.

As for venting the actuator, maybe it's just because it heat up and cools along with the diff.

 

venting the actuator is due to how it works. There is air displaced when it moves in and out, thus needing a vent.

 

I would most definitely keep them separate! You don't want oil getting in your new actuator...

 

Is there an existing nipple on the e locker actuator that the factory hose slides over or can I screw in one of these:

$7 Toyota Genuine Parts - Union (90404-51319)

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00P2S0...d8&ref_=pd_luc_rh_pd_luc_ac_nb_02_01_t_img_lh

 

Any pics or could you describe the location of the locker breather want to do the same thing but can't seem to find it.
thanks

 

Didn’t take any pics before the mod but basically it’s the only tube sticking out the top of your actuator. I think stock it’s got some sort of coiled plastic bracing around it. It’s the hose sticking out on the left in this picture.
https://images.app.goo.gl/v3XCbVCQbucnjHH76

 

Alright ill have to look some more i have one small tube hanging above the actuator as if it was once connected maybe 1/8" big and didn't see any others coming off must have disconnected at some point.

 

@Ginger taco depending on where you live and how you drive it you might be well served by taking the actuator off while you’re under there and opening it up to make sure it’s dry and not corroded inside. A good cleaning and some new grease would probably go a long way towards extending its life. Word of caution though, the entire casing on mine crumbled to pieces when I took it off my 08, but I live in the rust belt so your mileage may vary.

 

Live in southern Ontario so salt and all in the winter and such just had the frame swapped due to rust so I think I’ll leave it (if it ain’t broke don’t fix right...) thanks for the heads up

 

Don’t blame ya. Those suckers are like $900 new if you break em. That one hurt a bit lol.

 

Yup rather not risk it as long at it works