Frame rust prevention

Yeah I am actually going to be spraying a few trucks for some friends. I will charge $50 each which is a great deal. Local shops charge about $150 give or take. I got the FF for about $30 a gallon I think and I should be able to do 2 trucks per gallon

 

I use ramps too. Obvi a lift would be ideal but the ramps work fine. Shit I have done my tundra just flat on the ground in the driveway and that was fine. I wear old shirt clothes when I do it. Usually will just throw my shirt away lol but it cleans off fine.

 

You can. How does biodegradable motor oil react when sprayed on electrical components and rubber?

Fluid Film is safe for everything, so you don't have to worry about what you cover it with

 

which product is the easiest to remove when one needs it removed

motor oil dripping in the garage floor, not sure i like that lol

 

has anybody used this stuff, i'm not looking to use on the frame but getting up close underneath i found a number of spots needing repaired from where it probably chipped off
and i don't know if i need to remove all the old undercoating (22.5 years old now probably brittle as heck!) or if this stuff will just adhere to what is there in spots
no noticeable rust in these spots that i can tell so they must've popped up this past year


https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-rubberized-undercoating.html

 

Good question. Oil is like grease, which we use on battery terminals to help prevent corrosion there. It’s an insulator, just like fluid film. Insulators help prevent oxidation from occurring.
One reason both fluid film, which is oil based works, is that it migrates to welds.
Welds are very rust prone because the welding process weakens the effects of galvanization and even alloys like the chrominum in stainless steel. Even if your vehicle is stainless steel or made from galvanized metal, it’s more prone to rust in welded ares. This is why metal boats tend to use rivets and epoxy for bonding.
It’s not that fluid film isn’t good, but like any oil, It can be rubbed away or eventually flushed away like any oil and needs yearly treatment.....your choice. Really, if motor oil damaged anything, your car would would need repair everywhere there is an oil leak. Motor oil is caustic after it’s been used from the combustion process. Obviously, you use “new” biodegradable oil.
Fluid film uses essentially, biodegradable oil as its base.
So, use fluid film if you like, it’s fine, but I would also use grease on parts like nuts and bolts, hitch areas especially, skid plates if they are steel, cast iron and not aluminum, stainless etc.

 

There is no one time rust proofing. Rubber will harden over time, it will crack, it will allow moisture underneath and will actually accelerate the rust process.

 

Ha ha You think fluid film is magic and doesn't drip ? It’s messy no matter what you use. That’s why you are careful and use only biodegrable material which fluid film is.
https://procarreviews.com/best-undercoating/

Bottom line is, use only biodragable material which doesn’t contaminate ground water. Fluid film uses biodegrable oil.

 

so far whatever the dealer put under mine 22.5 years ago has stayed put (other than spots on the frame) and no rust that I can see where it has possibly recently chipped but i am worried now there is exposed metal under bed, rockers and possibly cab which i have not checked under thoroughly yet
and it is hard and brittle

 

@Dagosa one think I had not considered is that the FF may drip, since I park outside I don't think it should be a big deal though. I think @pudge151 was onto something with the Amsoil as it drys like a wax and doesn't drip (according to Amsoil).

 

I don't think the dripping is a big deal. It's biodegrable and will washout. I left newspaper under mine when I used normal oil and it was manageable . It was not problem.
Amsoil sounds promising too.
I might consider using both. Oil base inside body panels and amsoil on exposed flat services. I don't like wax based that could clog drain holes on rockers and fender liners. I think wax based on exposed frame members might be excellent though.

 

What local are we talking about ?

 

mid west NE/IA border, near Offut AFB

 

You want to ask for heavy duty metal protector. IMHO it's better than FF because it doesn't wash away as easily. Ensure the frame is prepped wire wheel/ hand scrape rust away, Ospho rust neutralizer, primer, Eastwood black chassis paint and then Amsoil heavy duty metal protector.

 

I've applied fluid film for years and have not had an issue with it dripping. It is more viscous than motor oil. It will creep into places but not gather and drip due to gravity

 

FF heavy drizzle 1st app, not a whole lot of drip drip on initial overdose, just a bit on the forehead is all while deep under it, maybe have gotten onto my shirt as well
smell is tolerable, not as bad as some make it out to be unless my sense of smell is not up to snuff



after 2 auto washes with sideblaster underbody sprayer it is still clinging under there, it seems a couple of spots are wearing off though, not sure i guess until flash rust pops up
but it has not yet seen any driving in heavy rain, let alone the winter slop slop

 

belated update!
pic taken on Oct 28
this is after the 7th or 8th auto undercarriage wash in the same area
no heavily wet streets had touched it yet

 

@GQ7227 I picked up a gallon of FF last weekend, been busy with house stuff, but planning on getting it applied next weekend after I pull the bed. Thank you for the update!

 

i cannot really tell if any flash rust has started yet where the FF has perhaps washed off (the shiny silvery spots), or if the FF is still on there, or the zinc phosphate coated is holding good to prevent flash rust, i have been working on the driver side (under door to front wheel) lately & getting ready to crawl back & under prime tomorrow when temps finally get back to 60s