Bed outlet power without key in the ignition?

Hello.
Tomorrow I plan to do the 400W power inverter mod for the bed outlet on my ‘15 TRD O/R 4.0 Auto. Refer to the link below. Is there a mod that allows you to use the bed outlet WITHOUT the key? I did the 12v all the time mod for the 12v outlets in the interior. I’d like the same for the power inverter as well.
Thank you.

https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/110v-factory-inverter-always-400w.284662/

 

Well, in theory, if you cut the light green wire going to the switch, and connect battery power to the switch, it should work, but, everything is so interconnected with the ECM, speedo, etc, that you need to make sure there isn't a drain that will run the battery dead. This is just speculation based on looking at the schematic.

Also, since the inverter draws a lot of current, you need to use it sparingly with the engine off.

https://www.customtacos.com/tech.ol...toyewd/06toypdf/ewd/2006/tacoma/h/em01d38.pdf

 

That's a good idea actually. I may just butt-connect a long cable to that light green wire & run it to the battery (+) just to see if that works. Worse case scenario I pop a fuse? I do plan to use it sparingly. I'm going to buy a deep cycle battery for sure.

I read somewhere on this forum (but I forgot where) that you can put the ignition key right in between the 1st & 2nd key positions in the ignition cylinder & it will power the inverter yet the lights in the dash wont't turn on at all & there will be no power to the other accessories. I tried it this morning & it worked. If I can't figure out how to make it run without the key at all I will use this method. At least it won't have all the accessories powered so it should be close to, or same as, having no key in the ignition at all.

 

The IG1NO2 fuse that powers the inverter switch powers a LOT of things. So, even though the dash isn't lit, there will still be a lot of things potentially drawing power.

 

Oh. I did not know that. Thank you for pointing that out to me. Well, I'll try the green wire to (+) battery & go from there.

 

How about just power to where the dual lime green wires go on the switch, so you get no feedback in the rest of the IG1 no2 circuit. and remove the IGN source to the Inverter relay also...

Jumper on the inverter 20-22 awg

 

I'll see how that plug looks tomorrow. Thank you

 

OP, I would go this route by cutting/splicing 12V to the light green wire at the connector in the left kick panel but maybe this thread will help:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-ac-outlet-in-cab-400-watt-anytime-mod.322320/

 

At 400 watts, the inverter is drawing 33 amps from the battery. I don't think the battery will last very long at that rate.

 

Good point. I’ve read that these inverters shut off when the battery drops to a certain level so that you may still be able to start your truck. Is that true?

Also, with the 400W anytime mod will I still be able to choose between 100W & 400W options or will it be 400W only all the time?

 

I don't have the inverter option in my truck; so I can't answer those questions.

 

I don't think that is a constant draw. Wouldn't it draw up to 30 amps, depending on the demands of the device? Regardless, I think the inverter will have a constant draw if provided constant power. Wouldn't it be easier to run a hot wire to a waterproof switch, and install it near the inverter in the bed?

 

Near the inverter in the bed???

 

Yes. Or, inside the nearby cubby and put a lock on it if worried about vandalism. There are a couple of threads here on replacing the cubbies with key locks.

 

I don’t have the specs on a gen 2 battery in my head, but if it’s a 660 Ahr, then that’s 20 hour’s or 4 usable before you start fucking over the battery.
Op, just put a DPDT switch in so you can run it either way. Don’t forget the fuse and as you stated a deep cycle or AGM

 

The inverter is under the center console in the cab.

 

Seems I can't do math today...
Edit: I reread this, and it seems I can do math... I guess I should have included that just under 1/8th amp in my earlier post

 

Thank you ALL for this info. I didn't do anything to the inverter today because I realize that I need to do more research on this before I start cutting and/or splicing. I did read my owners manual. There is no mention on there about the inverter shutting off after prolonged use in order to not drain the battery. That makes sense since it is basically designed to power the outlet with the engine running.

Thanks for the diagrams & the link. Honestly, I had to Google "DPDT" to know what that meant. The most electrical stuff I have done is remove the door/ignition "ding" buzzer behind the instrument cluster & the "ABS" disable mod, for when off-roading.


QUESTION: Why does the owners manual not mention the Amps for the bed outlet inverter?
Power outlets in the cab (combined total max capacity):
12 Volts DC/10 Amps (120 watts)

Power outlet in the bed:
120 Volts AC/100 watts
120 Volts AC/400 watts

 

Because most people would freak out if they thought they spent $40k on a 3 amp “generator”.