Used Oil Analysis: 2012 2.7L 90,000 miles

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Sent to Blackstone Laboratories my first UOA (used oil analysis) for my 2012 Tacoma 2.7L SR5 4x4 5-speed manual transmission with 90,000 miles. My local Toyota dealer serviced my vehicle since I bought it new until 75,000 miles. Records show them using mainly 0W-20 synthetic and a few times 5W-20 conventional oil. An assortment of different Toyota oil filters (dealer flip flopped back and forth with 3 different filters).

Then for the next 10,000 miles I had a local indy shop change my oil. I requested 0W-20 for those two changes. Oil filters both times were NAPA. I'm not sure what manufacture oil brand dealer or indy used, but guessing what was on sale and purchased in bulk. I started changing my own oil at 85,000 mile mark using Mobil 1 0W-20 Extended Performance. And I'm back to using Toyota oil filters again. I believe my next oil change will be at the 7,500 mile mark even though Toyota says I can go 10,000 using 0W-20.

I didn't expect any surprises since truck runs like a champ. Magnesium was high what ever that means. But no water or anti-freeze in oil which is a plus! Thought I'd share this info.

 

In thought the 2TR required 5000 mile OCI regardless of viscosity or whether using dino/synthetic?

 

The 2nd gen was 5k oil changes. The 3rd gen v6 is 10k oil changes. I don't know if they updated the oil change mileage for the 2TR. I wouldn't be surprised through. Everyone seems to be pushing longer between oil changes.

 

seems at this time Blackstone is recommending going 7k mile OCI, and send them another sample at that time for analyzation

 

Am I reading this Toyota Bulletin incorrectly then? My dealership Service Department did say I could go 10,000 miles when using 0W-20 synthetic. I will change at 7,500 miles and send Blackstone another sample.

http://toyota.custhelp.com/app/answ...the-oil-change-intervals-using-synthetic-oil?

 

The 2TR falls under the second bullet point of that bulletin. 0w20 was an option over 5w20 dino oil, and synthetic was never a requirement. The 10k oil changes only apply to motors that require 0w20 synthetic.

However, there's no harm in extending if the used oil analysis shows that the oil is still doing its job.

 

I have to agree with you Jeremy after reading the bulletin 3-4 more times. Like I mentioned earlier, my dealership service department said a couple years back that I could go 10,000 miles between changes using 0W-20 fully synthetic. I never did though. Moving on......... I'm still going to go 7-7,500 miles on this last oil change due to I don't tow, go off road, drive dusty gravel roads on a regular basis, or take short constant trips below 32F even though it gets mighty cold here on the lake in the winter. Thanks for the replies.

 

Yeah, I haven't kept up with the 3rd gen 4 cyl oil viscosity/change-interval requirements. I still go by the manual in my '06 that recommends 5W-30 every 5000 miles. Regardless, @wags, you're doing the right thing going by the analysis and Blackstone's recommendation. Your engine looks to be in good shape.

 

I looked it up out of curiosity. The 3rd gen manual calls for 0w20 only, and there's only one maintenance schedule for the 3rd gen so 10k mile oil changes.

 

Just remember that the service interval depends how you actually use the vehicle.
Even if the manual says 10k max, you could probably go 15,000 miles on M1EP if you're only on paved highway doing 65MPH (after warranty).
But if you never see the highway, are always doing stop-and-go in the city, or towing/hauling all the time, or in really dusty conditions, you better keep it to 5,000 mile service intervals.
Some manufacturers allow a 7500-mile service interval using conventional oil... again, depending on usage.

 

Viscosity has nothing to do with how long you can go between oil changes. Dino oil vs. synthetic does. Mobil 1 is a blend, not a full synthetic. Pennzoil Platinum is the only full synthetic you can buy off a shelf anywhere unless someone where you live is an Amsoil dealer or a Redline dealer or one of the other boutique oil manufacturers.

Blackstone bases their recommendations on how long to go between oil changes on TBN, Total Base Number. That reflects the acidity level of the oil. Pay for the TBN test as well when you send a sample to Blackstone. I've been sending samples to them for my 2004 RC 4X4 for 5 years now. Good oils start with a TBN of around 12 and as they are used the TBN drops down. At a TBN of 1 you have to change your oil or it becomes acidic and starts eating parts inside the engine. Blackstone has told me I can try 12,000 on the Amsoil Signature 10-30 I use. I'm sticking with a maximum of 10,000 and I use Amsoil filters.

If you don't tow, haul, idle for long periods, drive in dusty conditions all the time and don't do short trip/stop and go driving you can always go longer on an oil/filter change. Oil analysis cost money none of us have but once you know and understand an oil report you can tell if there is something wrong long before you get that $5000 repair bill. Blackstone has a place on their website that explains what everything in an oil does. It's hard to get to but they do provide a place to understand an oil analysis.

If you really want to learn about oils. Go to Bob Is The Oil Guy. BITOG They even have tribologists on there who actually engineer oils as well as many others who know a lot about lubricants whether it be grease or gun oil. Anti-freeze as well.

Me? I haven't been on that site in quite a few years after spending over 5 years on it. I will only say this, If your a real American you will get pissed off at BITOG after a while. That being said, there is no better place on the internet to learn about oils, fluids and lubricants than BITOG.

 

Magnesium is a detergent. Here is the opinion from "Molecule" on BITOG. If I remember correctly he is an oil engineer of some sort but I could be wrong. Never-the-less, what he posts is spot on.

"Detergents (Surface Protective Additive): metallo-organic compounds of sodium, calcium, magnesium, boron phenolates, phosphates and sulfonates such as alkylbenzene sulfonic acids, alkylphenol sulfides, alkylsalacyclic acids; Lift deposits from surfaces to keep them suspended.

Dispersants (Surface Protective Additive): Alkylsuccinimides, alkylsuccinic esters (alkenyl succinimides); chemical reaction with sludge and varnish precursors to keep them acid neutralized and to keep them soluble. Detergent-dispersants often are the same chemical or come in compounds to accomplish the combined function(s).Calcium and magnesium are both white-to-silvery-white metals that are "base" metals. Base metals attack acids and turn them into salts before they can cause corrosion. These Base metal detergents and dispersants are also responsible for establishing the primary TBN of a lubricant.

Magnesium is a harder metal than calcium and can cause hard deposits on top rings and crowns of diesel engines. Magnesium additives in too high a concentration can also cause gelling of the oil. "Most" of today's modern oils have lowered the magnesium or dropped it completely in favor of newer non-organic detergents. Much depends on additive interactions
as to how much magnesium is used.

There are also different Magnesium sulfinate and phenate formulations, and the latest formulations present no problems. Like ZDDP, it still a low-cost cost and tried-and-true compound for most oils.

In my opinion, you should change the oil you are using if you have high magnesium."

This is directed at the OP. You had better either change you're oil yourself or make sure you know what these various shops/dealerships are putting in it. For you? I'd suggest Penzoil Platinum if you want an off the shelf fully synthetic lube you can find anywhere and stick with Toyota oil filters.

If you want extended drain intervals then use a synthetic which Pennzoil Platinum is the last time I checked. If you want to go by Toyota change intervals you can just use standard Pennzoil. You can't just take you're Toyota to any shop and expect them to take care of it. YOU, have to monitor what is going on with you're vehicle.

Me personally, if I were you? It seems like you aren't the type to change you're own oil. If that is true, find a reputable repair shop or dealer you can trust, never take it anywhere but there and put Mobil 1 or Pennzoil in it. I personally hate Mobil for other reasons but their oil is top notch. I used it for over 10 years. Pennzoil is a unanimous favorite on BITOGl. It's one of the best other than boutique like Redline or Amsoil. Then do your oil analysis and pay for the TBN test.


Trust no one when it comes to anyone working on you're vehicle. Get a recommendation from friends, family, co-workers who can point you to the right shop or dealer you can trust and check their work after you leave.

 

The high silicon average I concluded was contributed to me not having air cleaner lid securely attached. I added a new air filter at 90,000 miles but didn't notice the lid wasn't fully secured until I did my 95,000 mile service. Didn't think anything of it until UOA. My bust... Very pleased with this truck since new.

 

Pay the extra 10$ for the TBN test. It tells you how long you can really go by letting you know how acidic the oil is getting. Once it gets down to a TBN of 1 you absolutely have to change it or the acidity starts eroding your internals. I'm going 9-10,000 and I still have around 3 TBN left.

 

It looks like my 12 Tacoma oil changes will now be a once a year evolution unless I start driving it a lot more. Last week I purchased a new 2020 AWD compact SUV since I wanted/needed more interior space and better MPG. My Tacoma will now be more used for around the house chores and my winter months of bow hunting duties. If mileage exceeds 5K in a year I'll be surprised.

 

My last oil sample in my 2004 2.7 had 2.8 TBN left after 10,200 miles. I can go 12,000 if I want but will keep it at 10,000 or less.

 

Thanks for sharing.

I wonder if there’s anywhere locally I can get this done here in East Tennessee.
I got my Taco with over 100k on it - runs great, but an analysis could give some insight to some regular maintenance choices. Plus I’m a data nerd.

 

Keep in mind, TBN is only part of the story. Oil in use gets loaded up with particulates and soot and whatnot, whatever the oil filter doesn't catch, eventually turning your oil into liquid sandpaper. When will that happen? It depends on a lot of factors, including engine type, mileage, maintenance history and usage, as well as the type of oil and oil filter you are using. My point is, just because the acid-neutralizing capacity is still there doesn't mean that oil should continue circulating through your engine. My oil might have TBN of 3 after 12,000 miles but no way would I run oil that long, not in the engines I have. As always, YMMV.