SPC UCA numbers help please

I'm running basically the same set up on mine, with the exception of OME shocks. I had a huge issue with alignment, and the VSC.

SPC the typical set up is setting D or the SPC stamped flat side facing straight out. That should get you near 3 degrees with the LCA moved forward as much as possible. With that set up I still rubbed the bottom corner of the fender flare, but so little that trimming it wasn't even noticeable.

Ball joint nut torqued to 150 after proper alignment. Honestly the hardest part will be finding an alignment shop that has worked with SPC, or is willing to read their instructions. I went through this a couple of times because the guy knew it all, except that I changed the stock geometry and therefore alignment was slightly different. I believe the SPC upper adds 2 degrees of castor from the beginning, and that needs to be put into the machine. I'm not up to snuff on alignments, so this is just my experience. I believe the ball joint position is used for castor, the UBJ also slides in a slot to adjust camber. Then torqued when in. Pretty sure the tie rods do the toe, but could be wrong on that. The alignment can be the worst part of the whole deal. Especially if you have VSC issues.

With the VSC a couple nuggets i've figured out. There is a sticky on resetting it the easy way. My alignment shop's system is able to calibrate it, but they were incompetent. I had a few scary drives with it kicking in on turns. Anyhow, that system cannot be set without it being in park. I have a 6-speed MT, which requires the e-brake (parking brake) pulled in order for it to work. I just happened to dumb into that piece of information after an hour with my local shops computer. It worked the first time, but not the second alignment. The difference was i parked it the first time, and always use the brake.

For alignment the general consensus is that 0 toe, 0 camber (or very slight for cornering), 3 degrees of castor for 2.5-3" of lift. Hold you alignment tech to those standards. With that being said rust and shit can be a bitch with alignment cams. I also have a '12 tx and mine are still free. I pb blastered the shit out of them for a week before attempting the lift and alignment. I would highly suggest that, you mentioned getting new alignment cams, but I've heard and seen in person that isn't easiest option out there. It seems like the majority opt for a whole new LCA.

Maybe have you frame inspected before since you are in NY. You could qualify for a new frame, and LCA are part of that. There is a new frame campaign that is covering our years. I haven't went in yet, but will in the next year so the inspection is in their system. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

Would recommend to start in the middle.... maxing out caster is going to make steering very heavy and pull due to road crown excessive.

 

so youre saying what setting to start with on the UCA and middle of the way with the LCA caster adjustment?

 

If your lift height is going to be around the 2in over stock mark, id recommend putting the ball joint to the "D" position. Rear LCA bolt slid all the way out, then front LCA bolt in the middle of its adjustment, Get camber by eye close to zero, and then the alignment tech only needs to adjust the front LCA bolt to fine tune caster, and slide the ball joints in or out for camber.

 

aiming for 3" lift overall