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Shell wiring

Discussion in 'Tonneau Covers, Caps and Shells' started by Petex46f3, Nov 20, 2019.

  1. Nov 20, 2019 at 12:50 AM
    #1
    Petex46f3

    Petex46f3 [OP] Member

    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2019
    Member:
    #310063
    Messages:
    20
    Gender:
    Male
    Bay Area
    Vehicle:
    2020 Tacoma TRD off-road DCLB - quicksand
    First, because a picture is worth a thousand words and makes my post interesting, here’s my truck.

    F87D8E01-2C92-4AD5-93DF-56518F636003.jpg

    Question:

    I have a snugtop sport hi-liner camper shell on order for my 2020 trd off-road DCLB. The camper shell dealer said he’d tap into the left tail light wire to power the shell 3rd brake light but also mentioned running power from the battery directly - not sure why now that I think about it.

    I’m pretty sure I want to avoid extra wires running from the battery and unneeded tapping and splicing. Or maybe these guys know what they’re doing and this is actually the best way, but I find that hard to believe.

    So, What sorts of cables and adapters can I use to run power from the trailer plug on my truck to the camper shell, eliminating the need to splice and tap into tail light or battery directly?
     
    Last edited: Nov 20, 2019
  2. Nov 20, 2019 at 2:44 AM
    #2
    Mtn Mike

    Mtn Mike Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2017
    Member:
    #234494
    Messages:
    754
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Mike
    Spokane, WA
    Vehicle:
    2017 TRD OR AC
    I think installers use a pre-made plug-and-play harness, not a tap, to hook into the tail lights but you may want to ask the dealer about that. If the dealer doesn't use a pre made harness, it's easy to find one at any auto parts store; it's what's used for aftermarket tow lighting kits.

    Snugtops come with an LED dome light standard and strip lighting as an option. My Snugtop Rebel came with a mini 20 amp fusebox with a couple circuits and two USB outlets. Running a cable to the battery is the easiest way for the installer to get always-on power.

    My only complaint with my dealers installation is that the installer, not surprisingly, used a cheap 14 gauge wire with shody routing to the truck battery. I plan to reroute and replace that wire when I get around to installing a small auxiliary battery under my hood. If I had to do it again I'd run my own power wire to the back before having the cap installed.
    (Edited for clarity)
     
    Last edited: Nov 20, 2019
    Petex46f3[OP] likes this.

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